Whirlpool Washing Machine Water Problems & Proven Solutions


If your Whirlpool washing machine water supply is giving you trouble, you’ve come to the right place. This in-depth guide will give you steps on how to deal with these issues…

Whirlpool Washing Machine Hot Water On Cold Setting — Solved

If your Whirlpool washing machine water is heating up on a cold setting, here are the issues you should look for…

1. Failed Heating Element

Follow the steps below to test the heating element in your Whirlpool washing machine…

Front Loaders

To test your Whirlpool front loader washing machine’s heating element, follow the steps below…

Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, ensure that the washing machine is unplugged from the outlet before you start this procedure.

Step 2. With a 1/4 inch socket, take out all the screws holding the rear access panel to the cabinet. Lift the rear panel off the machine and set it aside.

Step 3. Reach under the drum, then unplug the wire connectors attached to the heating element (make sure to note where each wire goes).

Step 4. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the heating element mounting bolt. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to push the heating element (this will release the retaining clips).

Step 5. Slide the heating element out of the housing. Get a multimeter, then turn it to a low-resistant setting.

Step 6. Place the multimeter probes on heating element terminals. A working heater should give a reading between 20 and 50 ohms. If the readings are negative, the element needs to be replaced.

Step 7. If the readings come out all right, slide the heating element back into the housing, then use your 10mm socket wrench to apply the bolt.

Step 8. Plug each wire connector back into its appropriate terminal on the heating element.

Step 9. Lift the rear panel and mount it on the cabinet. Secure the rear panel screws by applying the nuts using your 1/4 inch socket wrench.

Step 10. Plug the appliance into the electrical outlet, then try running a cycle to ensure that everything works properly.

Washer/Dryer Combo

Do the following to test the heating element in your Whirlpool washer/dryer combo machine…

Step 1. Before starting this procedure, disconnect the appliance from the outlet in order to prevent electrical damage.

Step 2. Using a Philips screwdriver, loosen the nuts holding the dryer compartment’s lower access panel. Pry the panel off the machine, then set it aside.

Step 3. Insert a tool such as a putty knife into the gap above the dryer’s lower front panel (this should release the locking clips). Pry the panel off the machine and set it aside.

Step 4. Open the door of the dryer compartment, then pull the lint filter out of the housing.

Step 5. With a 5/16 inch socket wrench, loosen the bolts holding the air duct to the bottom of the dryer’s front panel. Pry the air duct off machine and set it aside.

Step 6. Using the nut-driver, loosen the screws securing the heater shield to the cabinet. Take the cabinet off the machine, then set it aside.

Step 7. Unplug the wire connectors attached to the heating element (ensure that you note where each connector goes).

Step 8. Use a 1/4 inch socket to take out the bolts holding the heating element to the housing. Slide the heating element out of the housing.

Step 9. Get a multimeter, then set it to a low resistance setting. Place the multimeter probes on the heater terminals and look for a reading between 20 and 50 ohms.

Step 10. If the readings are negative, you’ll need to replace the heater. If the readings are normal, slide the element back into the housing.

Step 11. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, apply the nuts to secure the heating element to the housing.

Step 12. Reconnect the wire harnesses to the appropriate terminals on the heating element. Put the heater shield back on, then apply the bolts to secure it.

Step 13. Remount the air duct onto the cabinet, then secure it by applying the screws with your nut-driver.

Step 14. Open the door of the dryer compartment, then push the lint filter back into the housing.

Step 15. Snap the lower front access panel onto the cabinet. Mount the lower panel onto the dryer compartment, then secure it by applying the screws with your Philips screwdriver.

Step 16. Plug the machine back into its electrical outlet, then test the appliance by running a cycle.

Dryer

Take the following steps to test the heating element in your Whirlpool dryer…

Step 1. Make sure to unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the screws holding the top panel to the cabinet. Slide the top cover backwards and lift it off the machine.

Step 3. With your nut-driver, take out the screws at the top of the control panel. Disconnect the control panel’s wire connector from the main control board.

Step 4. Pry the panel off the front of the cabinet, then set it aside. Disconnect the door switch wire connector from the control board.

Step 5. With someone helping you, carefully tip the machine backwards, then place a support under the front panel.

Step 6. Take out the bolts at the bottom of the front panel using a 1/4 inch nut-driver. Carefully take out the support out from underneath the machine, then set the appliance upright.

Step 7. Open the dryer’s door, then use a Philips screwdriver to loosen the screws holding the front panel to the bulkhead.

Step 8. Use the nut-driver to take out the nuts at the top of the front panel. Lift the panel upwards carefully, then take it off the cabinet.

Step 9. Loosen the nut holding the control board bracket to the front frame. Move the control board bracket out of place, then support it.

Step 10. With the nut-driver, take out the screws holding the front frame to the cabinet. Pull the frame off the cabinet, then set it aside.

Step 11. Use a 5/16 inch socket to take out the screw holding the lower support bracket under the air duct.

Step 12. Disconnect the moisture sensor’s wire connector under the front bulkhead. Take out the bolts holding the bulkhead to the cabinet.

Step 13. Lift the front bulkhead upwards carefully, then lift it off the cabinet. Carefully reach under the drum, then push the idler pulley to release the tension on the drive belt.

Step 14. Take the drive belt off the idler pulley and motor pulley. Carefully lift the drum and drive belt out of the cabinet.

Step 15. With your 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the screws holding the high-limit thermostat and thermal fuse to the heating element housing. Pull both components off the housing.

Step 16. Unplug the wire harnesses attached to the heating element (be sure to take note of where each connector goes).

Step 17. Use the nut-driver to take out the nuts holding the heater cover to the cabinet. Take the cover off and set it aside.

Step 18. Pull the heating element out of the cabinet. Get a multimeter and turn the dial to a low resistance setting.

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Step 19. Place the probes of the multimeter on the heating element’s terminals. A working heater should give a reading between 20 and 50 ohms.

Step 20. If the readings come out correct, place the heater back on the cabinet. Snap the shield back onto the heater, then use a nut-driver to apply the screws.

Step 21. Reconnect the electrical connectors to their appropriate terminals on the heating element.

Step 22. Mount the high-limit thermostat and thermal fuse on the heater assembly, then tighten the screws using your nut-driver.

Step 23. Carefully lift the belt and drum, then guide it back into the cabinet. Reach underneath the drum and push the idler pulley.

Step 24. Loop the drive belt around the motor pulley and idler pulley in a zig-zag pattern.

Step 25. Lift the front bulkhead and mount it on the cabinet. Plug the moisture sensor wire connector back in.

Step 26. Put the lower support bracket back in place, then secure it by applying the nut with your nut-driver.

Step 27. Lift the front frame and snap it back onto the cabinet. Tighten the screws with a 1/4 inch nut-driver.

Step 28. Reattach the control panel bracket to the front frame, then apply the screws.

Step 29. Lift the front panel and remount it on the cabinet. Using your socket wrench, tighten the screws at the top.

Step 30. Tip the washing machine backwards carefully, then place a support under the front panel. With the socket wrench, tighten the screws at the bottom.

Step 31. Take out the support from underneath the appliance, then set the machine on its feet. Plug the door switch wire connector back into the control panel.

Step 32. Open the door of the washer, then tighten the screws on the front panel using a Philips screwdriver.

Step 33. Snap the control panel onto the front frame, then use a nut-driver to apply the screws. Plug the electrical connector back into the control board.

Step 34. Slide the top cover back onto the cabinet, then secure it by tightening the screws at the back.

Step 35. Reconnect your appliance to the electrical outlet, then try running a wash cycle to see if the issue has been fixed.

Check out these other articles…

Whirlpool Washing Machine Filter [Issues & Solutions]

Whirlpool Washing Machine Is Not Working [How To Fix]

Whirlpool Washing Machine Leaking [Proven Solutions]

Whirlpool Washing Machine Won’t Start [How To Fix]

Whirlpool Washing Machine Clicks [Proven Solutions]

Whirlpool Washing Machine Lock [Problems & Solutions

Whirlpool Washing Machine Shakes [Proven Solutions]

2. Faulty Thermostat

To test the thermostat in your Whirlpool washing machine, follow the steps below…

Front Loaders

Test the thermostat in your Whirlpool front loader washing machine with the following steps…

Step 1. Unplug your washing machine from the power outlet in order to prevent electrocution.

Step 2. Go to the back of the machine, then loosen the screws holding the top panel using a 1/4 inch socket.

Step 3. Slide the top panel backwards about an inch or so, then lift it off the cabinet. Slide the soap tray out of the dispenser, then press the button inside to completely release it from the housing.

Step 4. Using a Torx screwdriver, loosen the nut next to the dispenser opening. Take out the screws at the top of the control panel.

Step 5. Pry the control panel off the front of the machine, then set it on top of the cabinet. With a 1/4 inch socket, loosen the three screws holding the lower front access plate. Pry the cover off the machine and set it aside.

Step 6. Open the dryer’s door, then use a Torx screwdriver to take out the bolts holding the door lock to the front panel.

Step 7. With a pair of needle-nosed pliers, carefully pry the retaining band off the door gasket (be careful not to puncture the gasket).

Step 8. Using the 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the screws at the bottom and top of the main front panel. Lift the panel off the machine carefully, then set it aside.

Step 9. Reach under the front of the tub, then unplug the wire connector from the temperature sensor.

Step 10. Use a screwdriver to loosen the nuts holding the sensor to the tub. Pull the sensor off the tub.

Step 11. Get a multimeter, then turn the dial to the lowest setting for ohms of resistance.

Step 12. Place the probes of the multimeter on the thermostat terminals. If the component reads 0 ohms of resistance, it indicates that it is working properly. If the display does not change, it indicates that there is no continuity (the part is damaged).

Step 13. If the thermostat is working properly, remount it on the tub, then use your screwdriver to apply the nuts. Plug the wire connector back into the sensor.

Step 14. Lift the main front panel and mount it on the cabinet. Using the 1/4 inch socket wrench, tighten the screws at the top and bottom of the panel.

Step 15. Snap the lower access panel onto the cabinet, then apply the screws at the bottom.

Step 16. Open the machine’s door, then move the door lock back into place. Use your Torx screwdriver to apply the screws to secure the door lock.

Step 17. Fit the door boot seal around the front panel. Using either a pair of needle-nosed pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver, refit the retaining wire around the door gasket.

Step 18. Lift the control panel and snap it back onto the front of the cabinet. Tighten the screws at the top of the panel.

Step 19. Using a Torx screwdriver, apply the screw next to the dispenser opening. Slide the soap tray back into the dispenser.

Step 20. Place the top panel on the cabinet, then tighten the nuts at the back using your nut-driver.

Step 21. Reconnect your appliance to the electrical outlet, then test the machine by running a wash cycle.

Washer/Dryer Combo

To test the thermostat in your Whirlpool washer/dryer combo machine, follow the steps below…

Step 1. Make sure to disconnect your washing machine from the power outlet in order to prevent any chances of electrocution.

Step 2. With a Philips screwdriver, loosen the bolts holding the lower access panel to the dryer compartment. Lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.

Step 3. Insert a putty knife into the space into the gap above the dryer’s lower front access panel. Pry the panel off the machine and set it aside.

Step 4. Open the dryer’s door, then pull the lint filter out of the housing. Using a 5/16 inch socket wrench to take out the screws holding the air duct to the cabinet. Pry the duct off the machine and set it aside.

Step 5. With the nut-driver, loosen the bolts holding the heater shield. Take the shield off the cabinet.

Step 6. With a 5/16 inch wrench, loosen the bolts holding the heating element housing bracket to the side of the cabinet.

Step 7. Pull the heating element assembly out of place. Using the nut-driver, take out the screws holding the heater thermostat to the housing.

Step 8. Detach the thermostat from the housing, then unplug the wire connectors attached to it (ensure that you note where each connector goes).

Step 9. Get a multimeter, then turn the dial to the lowest ohms of resistance setting. Place the probes of the multimeter on the thermostat probes.

Step 10. If you get a reading of 0 ohms, the part has continuity and is working properly. If the display doesn’t significantly change, there is no continuity (you’ll need to replace the part).

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Step 11. If the readings came out all right, remount the thermostat on the housing, then apply the screws to secure it.

Step 12. Plug each wire connector into the corresponding terminal on the thermostat.

Step 13. Reinstall the heater assembly in the machine, then apply the screws to secure the heater bracket to the cabinet.

Step 14. Place the heater shield on the machine, then apply the screws using your 5/16 inch nut-driver.

Step 15. Put the air duct back on, then tighten the screws. Open the dryer’s door, then push the lint filter into the housing.

Step 16. Snap the lower front access panel back onto the cabinet. Place the dryer’s lower access panel, then use a Philips screwdriver to apply the nuts.

Step 17. Reconnect the appliance to the electrical outlet, then test it by running a wash cycle.

Dryer

Do the following to test your Whirlpool dryer’s thermostat…

Step 1. Prevent any chances of electrical damage by unplugging the appliance from the outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. Use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to take out the screws holding the top cover to the cabinet. Slide the top panel backwards about an inch or so, then lift it off the machine.

Step 3. With the nut-driver, take out the screws holding the control panel to the front of the cabinet. Unplug the control panel’s wire harness from the main control board.

Step 4. Pull the control panel off the cabinet, then set it aside. Take out the screws holding the control board bracket to the front frame. Move the control board bracket out of place, then support it.

Step 5. Disconnect the door switch wire connector from the control board. Get someone to help you tip the machine backwards and support it.

Step 6. Using the 1/4 inch socket wrench, loosen the four bolts at the bottom of the front panel. Carefully set the dryer back onto its feet.

Step 7. Loosen the screws holding the three bolts at the top of the front panel. Open the dryer’s door, then take out the screws on the front panel with a Philips screwdriver.

Step 8. Lift the front panel assembly upwards, then pull it off the cabinet. Loosen the screws holding the front frame above the bulkhead. Move the frame out of place.

Step 9. Using a 5/16 inch nut-driver, take out the screw holding the lower support bracket beneath the air duct.

Step 10. Disconnect the moisture sensor wire harness near the front bulkhead. Use your socket wrench to loosen the screws holding the front bulkhead to the cabinet.

Step 11. Lift the bulkhead off the cabinet and set it aside. Carefully reach under the drum, then push the idler pulley to release the tension on the belt.

Step 12. Take the drive belt off the idler pulley and motor pulley. Using the belt, lift the drum assembly out of the cabinet, then set it aside.

Step 13. Disconnect the wire connectors from the thermostat from the heater assembly (be sure to take note of where each wire goes).

Step 14. Loosen the screws holding the thermostat to the heater cover. Take the thermostat off.

Step 15. Get a multimeter. Turn the multimeter dial to the lowest ohms of resistance setting.

Step 16. Place both probes of the multimeter on the thermostat terminals. If you get 0 ohms of resistance on the multimeter, it indicates that there continuity (you don’t need to replace the thermostat).

Step 17. If the thermostat readings come out all right, place the component of the heater assembly, then tighten the screws to secure it.

Step 18. Plug each wire connector into its appropriate terminal on the thermostat. Lift the drum and belt, then guide them back into the cabinet.

Step 19. Reach under the drum, then push the idler pulley inwards. Loop the drive belt around the two pulleys in a zig-zag pattern.

Step 20. Lift the front bulkhead and remount it on the cabinet. Use a nut-driver to apply the screws. Plug the moisture sensor wire connector back in.

Step 21. Put the lower bracket back on the cabinet, then tighten it with the nut-driver. Mount the front frame onto the cabinet, then secure it with your nut-driver.

Step 22. Reattach the control board’s bracket to the front frame, then tighten the bolt. Lift the main front panel and snap it onto the cabinet.

Step 23. With your socket wrench, tighten the screws at the top of the panel. Open the door of the dryer, then use a Philips screwdriver to apply the bolts.

Step 24. Carefully tip the machine backwards and support it. Tighten the four screws at the bottom with your nut-driver.

Step 25. Set the appliance back on its feet. Reconnect the door switch wire harness to the control board.

Step 26. Snap the user control panel onto the front frame, then apply the screws at the top to secure it. Reconnect the wire connector to the main control board.

Step 27. Place the top cover on the cabinet, then slide it into place. Use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to apply the screws at the back.

Step 28. Reconnect your appliance to the electrical outlet, then ensure that everything works properly by running a cycle.

Whirlpool Washing Machine Water Not Filling — How To Fix

If your Whirlpool washing machine water supply isn’t running, here are the problems you should look for…

1. Water Taps Are Off

If your whirlpool washing machine water supply isn’t working, the first thing you should do is check to ensure that the water faucets are fully opened. If there is no water coming out of the taps, you may need to contact a plumber to take a look at the issue.

2. Kinked Inlet Hoses

If your Whirlpool washing machine water supply isn’t running, the next thing you should do is check to ensure that the supply hoses are straight. Ensure that the COLD and HOT water supply faucets aren’t bent or kinked in any way (this could restrict water flow).

3. Failed Water Inlet Valve

The inlet valve assembly controls the flow of the water into the machine. If this valve fails, your machine may overfill or not fill at all. For detailed steps on how to replace the water inlet valve in your Whirlpool washing machine, read this article: Whirlpool Washing Machine Error Codes. This guide also gives you steps on how to fix other issues in your Whirlpool washing machine.

4. Blocked Water Inlet Filters

Your washing machine has two inlet filters in the water ports. Over time, dirt from your water system can accumulate in the filter and clog it.

To fix this issue, you’ll need to disconnect the inlet hoses and pull the filters out. Afterwards, you’ll need to rinse the filters thoroughly.

Whirlpool Washing Machine Water Leaking From The Bottom — Solved

If your Whirlpool washing machine leaks water from the bottom, it indicates that the sump hose isn’t properly attached to the tub. Follow the steps below to learn how to fix this issue…

Front Loaders

Take the following steps to properly connect the sump hose in your front loader Whirlpool washing machine…

Step 1. Prevent any chance of electrical damage by unplugging the appliance from the outlet before starting this procedure.

Step 2. Go to the front of the appliance, then take out the screws holding the lower front access plate using your 1/4 inch socket. Take the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.

Step 3. Reach into the cabinet, then use a pair of pliers to squeeze the sump hose retaining clamp, then properly slide it into place.

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Step 4. Tug the hose a bit to make sure it is properly connected. Snap the lower front access panel onto the cabinet, then use your nut-driver to apply the screws at the bottom.

Step 5. Reconnect the machine to the electrical outlet, then try running a wash cycle to ensure that the leakage has stopped.

Top Loaders

Properly connect the sump hose in your Whirlpool top loader washing machine with the following steps…

Step 1. Put some tape on the lid of your machine to help secure it. Unplug the appliance from the electrical outlet, then turn the water taps off in order to prevent electrical damage and water leakage.

Step 2. Place a rag on the floor under the inlet hoses to help catch any leaks. Use a pair of pliers to unscrew the two hoses from the back of the machine (if needed, use a pair of pliers).

Step 3. With pliers, release the spring clamp holding the drain hose to the back of the cabinet. Pull the hose off the machine.

Step 4. With the help of another person, tip the appliance backwards carefully, then set it on the floor.

Step 5. Using a pair off pliers, squeeze the retaining clamp holding the sump hose to the bottom of the tub, then properly slide into place.

Step 6. Give the hose a little tug to ensure that it is properly connected. Get someone to help you lift the washing machine back onto its feet.

Step 7. Peel the tape off the lid, then reconnect the drain hose to the port at the back, then slide the spring clamp into place.

Step 8. Reconnect the COLD and HOT water inlet hoses to the ports on the washer. Turn the water faucets back on, then reconnect the power cord to the electrical outlet. To ensure that the leakage has stopped, try running a cycle.

Washer/Dryer Combo

Check the sump hose in your Whirlpool washer/dryer combo machine with the following steps…

Step 1. Before starting this repair, ensure that your washing machine is unplugged from the power outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. Go to the front of the appliance, then loosen the screws securing the dryer compartment’s lower access plate using a Philip screwdriver. Pry the plate off the machine, then set it aside.

Step 3. Pull the two access panel retaining clips out of the slots on the top panel. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver take out the bolts holding the two access panels to the cabinet.

Step 4. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry out the two spring clips holding the top panel to the cabinet. Pull the top panel assembly forwards a few inches, then lift it off the cabinet.

Step 5. With a 5/16 inch nut-driver, take out the screw holding the support bar to the front panel. Move the bar out of place.

Step 6. Use the nut-driver, take out the screws at the back of the front panel securing it to the cabinet. Pull the front panel upwards, then lift it off the machine

Step 7. Inspect the sump hose attached to the tub. If the hose is loose, use a pair of pliers to squeeze the retaining clamp, then properly move it back in place.

Step 8. Tug the hose firmly to ensure that the hose is properly connected. Lift the main front panel and remount it on the cabinet. Tighten the front panel screws using your 5/16 inch socket.

Step 9. Move the support bar back against front panel, then use the 5/16 inch spcket wrench to tighten the screws.

Step 10. Place the top panel assembly back on the cabinet, then push it forwards. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, push the two retaining clips into the top panel slots.

Step 11. Put the two rear access panels back on, then tighten the bolts using your 1/4 inch nut-driver. Push the panel clips into the slots.

Step 12. Snap the dryer’s main access panel back on. Secure the panel by applying the screws with your Philips screwdriver.

Step 13. Reconnect your washing machine to its electrical outlet, then ensure that the issue has been fixed by running a wash cycle.

Whirlpool Washing Machine Water Won’t Stop Filling — Solution

If your Whirlpool washing machine water won’t stop filling, it indicates an issue with the water pressure switch. Follow the steps below to learn how to test this part…

Front Loaders

The steps below show you how to test the water pressure switch in your front loader Whirlpool washing machine…

Step 1. Make sure to unplug your washing machine from the power outlet in order to prevent any chances of electrical damage.

Step 2. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out all the screws holding the top panel to the cabinet. Slide the panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the machine,

Step 3. Disconnect the wire connectors attached to the pressure switch at the side of the cabinet.

Step 4. Trace the air pressure tube, then find the other end. Pull the other end of the air pressure tube off the tub assembly.

Step 5. Get a multimeter, then turn the dial to the highest ohms of resistance setting. Place the mutlimeter probes on the two outermost terminals on the pressure switch.

Step 6. Take the other end of the pressure tube and blow into it (this will trick the sensor into thinking that the machine is filling). Pinch the hose tight to maintain the pressure.

Step 7. For a working sensor, you should get a reading between 0.2 and 0.5 ohms. If the reading comes out wrong, you will need to replace the part.

Step 8. If the reading on your water pressure switch cam out all right, reconnect the other end of the pressure tube to the port on the tub.

Step 9. Plug the wire connectors back into the terminals on the water pressure switch.

Step 10. Place the top panel on the cabinet, then use your 1/4 inch nut-driver to tighten the screws at the back.

Step 11. Plug the machine back into the electrical outlet, then try running a rinse cycle to see if the overfilling has stopped.

Top Loaders

Follow the steps below to test the water pressure switch in your Whirlpool top loader washing machine…

Step 1. Prevent electrocution by unplugging your appliance from the electrical outlet before starting this procedure.

Step 2. With a 1/4 inch socket, take out the bolts at the back of the machine holding the wiring and tube guard. Take the plate off the machine and set it aside.

Step 3. Insert a tool such as a putty knife under the two front corners of the control panel (this will release the locking clips). Pull the panel off the mounts, then set it face-down on the top panel.

Step 4. Use the 1/4 inch socket to take out the screws holding the rear panel to the cabinet. Pull the panel off the machine and set it aside.

Step 5. Pull the end of the pressure tube off the port at the side of the tub. Release the tube from the retaining bracket.

Step 6. Go back to the control panel, then unplug the electrical connectors. Get a multimeter, then set it to the highest ohms of resistance setting.

Step 7. Place the probes of the multimeter on the pressure switch terminals. To create pressure, blow into the tube and pinch it shut.

Step 8. Look for a reading between 0.2 and 0.5 ohms (this indicates that the part it working). If the readings don’t come out right, you’ll need to replace the pressure switch.

Step 9. If the water pressure switch is working fine, reconnect the pressure tube to the port at the side of the tub, then secure the tube in the retainer.

Step 10. Snap the rear access panel back onto the cabinet, then tighten the screws to secure it. Put the wiring and tube guard back in place, then apply the nut.

Step 11. Plug the wire connectors back into the water pressure switch. Lift the control panel and snap it into the cabinet.

Step 12. Plug your washing machine back into the power outlet, then test the appliance by running a rinse cycle.