If your KitchenAid washing machine is not spinning, you’ve come to the right place. In this detailed guide, we list the causes of this issue and provide detailed steps to deal with them…
Table of Contents
KitchenAid Washing Machine Is Not Spinning — How To Fix
If your KitchenAid washing machine is not spinning, the following are causes to look for…
1. Broken Drive Belt
If the drive belt in your KithenAid washing machine gets damaged, the drum will not be able to spin properly. Follow the steps below to replace this part…
Front Loaders
Take the following steps to replace a damaged drive belt in your front loader KitchenAid washing machine…
Step 1. Disconnect your washing machine’s power cord from the outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a Torx 20 screwdriver, loosen the bolts securing the rear access panel to the cabinet. Lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 3. If still intact, unhook the drive belt from the drive pulley and motor pulley. Discard the old belt, then prepare the new one for installation by unpacking it.
Step 4. Loop the drive belt around the drive pulley and motor pulley (ensure that the grooved side of the belt is turned inwards).
Step 5. Remount the rear panel onto the cabinet, then secure it by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 6. Reconnect your appliance to the power outlet. Try running a spin cycle to ensure that the issue has been fixed.
Top Loaders
Follow the steps below to replace the drive belt in your top loader KitchenAid washing machine by following the steps below…
Step 1. Ensure that you disconnect your washing machine from the outlet and turn the water taps off in order to prevent electrocution and leakage.
Step 2. Go to the back of the machine, then use pliers to release the spring clamp securing the drain hose to the port. Detach the hose from the machine.
Step 3. Disconnect the COLD and HOT water supply hoses from the ports at the back of the machine (ensure that you keep a rag nearby to clean any leaks).
Step 4. Place some tape on the lid of your washer to secure it. With someone assisting you, carefully tip your washing machine forwards and set it on the floor.
Step 5. Take out the bolts securing the belt guard to the bottom of the machine using a 5/16 inch socket wrench. Take the guard off and set it aside.
Step 6. If still intact, unhook the drive belt from the transmission pulley and motor pulley. Discard the old drive belt, then take the new one out of its packaging.
Step 7. With the grooved side turned inwards, loop the belt around the two pulleys. Rotate the belt by hand to ensure it is properly aligned.
Step 8. Put the belt guard in place, then tighten the bolts using your nut-driver. Carefully lift your washer onto its feet and peel the tape off the lid.
Step 9. Reattach the drain hose to the port at the back of the cabinet, then use pliers to move the spring clamp into place.
Step 10. Reconnect the HOT and COLD water supply hoses to the corresponding ports at the back of the machine.
Step 11. Turn the water supply taps back on, then reconnect the power cord to the outlet. To ensure that the issue has been fixed, try running a spin cycle.
Dryers
Follow the steps below to replace a damaged drive belt in your KitchenAid dryer…
Step 1. Disconnect the dryer from the power outlet before starting this procedure in order to prevent electrocution.
Step 2. Using a Torx screwdriver, loosen the bolts securing the top panel to the cabinet. Slide the panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the cabinet.
Step 3. Disconnect the control panel wire harness from the control board. Loosen the bolts securing the control panel to the mounting bracket.
Step 4. Pry the control panel off the mounting bracket, then set it aside. Carefully tip your washing machine backwards, then place a support underneath.
Step 5. Loosen the bolts at the bottom of the front panel. Take the support out from underneath the machine. Set the appliance back on its feet.
Step 6. Open the dryer’s door, then loosen the bolts at the bottom of the opening. Use your screwdriver to take out the bolts at the top of the front panel.
Step 7. Disconnect the door switch wire connector from the control board. Carefully lift the front panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 8. Using your screwdriver, take out the bolts securing the control board support bracket to the control panel’s mounting bracket. Move the board out of place.
Step 9. Take out the nuts securing the control panel’s mounting bracket to the cabinet. Lift the bracket off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 10. Use your Torx screwdriver to take out the bolts securing the lower support bracket to the cabinet. Take the bracket off the machine.
Step 11. Disconnect the moisture sensor wire harness at the bottom of the front bulkhead.
Step 12. Take out the nuts securing the bulkhead to the front of the cabinet. Lift the bulkhead off the machine and set it aside.
Step 13. Reach underneath the drum, then push the idler pulley inwards to release the tension on the drive belt (if intact).
Step 14. Unhook the drive belt from the pulleys, then slide it off the drum. Prepare the new drive belt for installation by unpacking it.
Step 15. With the grooved side turned inwards, loop the drive belt around the drum. Loop the belt around the idler and motor pulleys in a zig-zag formation.
Step 16. Rotate the drum by hand to ensure that the belt is properly aligned. Carefully lift the front bulkhead, then mount it on the drum. Secure the bulkhead by tightening the bolts.
Step 17. Reconnect the moisture sensor wire harness at the bottom of the front bulkhead.
Step 18. Place the lower support bracket underneath the front bulkhead, then use your Torx screwdriver to apply the bolts.
Step 19. Place the control panel mounting bracket on the cabinet, then use your nut-driver to apply the bolts. Mount the control board bracket on the control panel’s mounting bracket, then tighten the nuts.
Step 20. Remount the front panel on the cabinet, then tighten the bolts at the top using your nut-driver.
Step 21. Reconnect the door switch wire harness to the control board. Carefully tip your washing machine backwards and support it.
Step 22. Tighten the bolts at the bottom of the front panel. Set your washing machine onto its feet.
Step 23. Open the dryer door, then tighten the bolt at the bottom of the opening. Snap the control panel onto the mounting bracket, then tighten the bolts at the top.
Step 24. Plug the control panel’s wire harness into the control board. Mount the top panel on the cabinet, then slide it forwards.
Step 25. Apply the Torx screws at the back of the cabinet to secure the panel. Plug your dryer into the power outlet, then try running a cycle to ensure that the issue has been fixed.
2. Damaged Motor
If the motor in your KitchenAid washing machine fails, the drum will not be able to spin properly for detailed steps on how to test and replace your washer’s motor, read this article: KitchenAid Washing Machine Motor [2 Issues & Proven Solutions].
3. Machine Hasn’t Drained
Your washing machine won’t be able to go into the spin cycle if there is still water in the drum. For steps on how to fix drainage issues in your washing machine, read this article: KitchenAid Washing Machine Is Not Draining [2 Problems & Proven Solutions].
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4. Damaged Drive Pulley
If your KitchenAid washing machine is not spinning, another cause could be a damaged drive pulley.
The drive pulley is mounted on the tub shaft, and is turned by the belt. If this pulley is damaged, the drum won’t spin properly. Follow the steps below to replace this part…
Front Loaders
Take the following steps to replace a damage drive pulley in your front loader KitchenAid washing machine…
Step 1. Ensure that your disconnect your washing machine from the power outlet before starting this repair in order to prevent electrocution.
Step 2. Using a Torx-20 screwdriver or a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the bolts securing the rear panel to the cabinet. Carefully lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 3. Unhook the drive belt from the motor pulley and drive pulley. Using a 24mm socket wrench, take out the bolt securing the drive pulley to the tub shaft. Slide the pulley off the shaft and set it aside.
Step 4. Prepare the new pulley for installation by unpacking it. Slide the new drive pulley onto the tub shaft, then secure it by tightening the 24mm bolt.
Step 5. Loop the drive belt around the two pulleys (ensure that the grooved side of the belt is turned inwards.
Step 6. Mount the rear panel on the cabinet, then tighten the Torx screws. Plug your washing machine back into the power outlet, then try running a spin cycle to ensure that the issue has been fixed.
Top Loaders
Follow the steps below to replace a damaged pulley in your top loader KitchenAid washing machine…
Step 1. Turn your water supply faucets off and disconnect the power cord from the outlet before starting this procedure, in order to avoid electrocution and leakage.
Step 2. Using a pair of pliers if needed, squeeze the retaining clamp securing the drain hose to the back of the cabinet, then slide it out of place. Detach the hose from the machine.
Step 3. Disconnect the COLD and HOT water supply hoses from the ports at the back of the machine (ensure that you keep a rag nearby to clean any leaks).
Step 4. Put some tape on the lid of your washing machine to secure it. Carefully tip your washing machine backwards and set it on the floor (if needed, get someone to assist you).
Step 5. Take out the bolts securing the belt guard using a 5/16 inch nut-driver. Take the guard off and set it aside.
Step 6. Unhook the drive belt from the two pulleys, then set aside. Take out the bolt securing the transmission pulley to the shaft using a 13mm socket. Take the pulley off the shaft and discard it.
Step 7. Prepare the new drive pulley for installation by unpacking it. Slide the new pulley onto the shaft, then tighten the bolt.
Step 8. Put the belt guard back in place, then tighten the bolts. Lift your washer back onto its feet, then peel the tape off the lid.
Step 9. Reconnect the COLD and HOT water supply hoses to the corresponding ports at the back of the machine.
Step 10. Reattach the drain hose to the port at the back of the cabinet, then slide the retaining clamp into place.
Step 11. Turn the water taps back on, then plug the power cord into the outlet. To ensure that the issue has been fixed, try running a spin cycle.
5. Damaged Rotor
For washers with stators, you may need to replace the rotor if the drum isn’t spinning. Follow the steps below to do this…
Front Loaders
Take the following steps to replace a damaged rotor in your front loader KitchenAid washing machine…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, ensure that you disconnect your washing machine from the power outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver or a Torx screwdriver, take out the bolts securing the rear access panel to the cabinet. Lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 3. Using a strap wrench if needed, secure the rotor. Loosen the bolt securing the rotor to the back of the tub using an 11/16 inch socket wrench. Pry the rotor off the tub and set it aside.
Step 4. Prepare the new rotor for installation by unpacking it. Mount the new rotor at the back of the tub, then tighten the bolt using your 11/16 inch socket.
Step 5. Mount the rear panel onto then cabinet, then secure it by tightening the Torx screws. Plug your washer’s power cord back into the outlet, then try running a spin cycle to ensure that the issue has been fixed.
Top Loaders
Follow the steps below to replace a damaged rotor in your KitchenAid top loader washing machine…
Step 1. Disconnect your washing machine from the power outlet and turn the water taps off before starting this procedure in order to prevent electrocution and leakage.
Step 2. Disconnect the COLD and HOT water supply hoses from the ports at the back of the cabinet (some water may spill out, so ensure that you keep a rag nearby).
Step 3. Use pliers to release the spring clamp securing the drain hose to the back of the cabinet. Detach the drain hose from the machine.
Step 4. Put some tape on the lid of your washer to secure it. Carefully tip your washing machine backwards and set it on the floor (get someone to help you if needed).
Step 5. Insert a screwdriver into one of the holes on the rotor to help jam it. Loosen the bolt securing the rotor to the bottom of the tub using a T-30 Torx bit.
Step 6. Pry the rotor off the tub and discard it. Prepare your new washing machine rotor for installation by unpacking it.
Step 7. Snap the new rotor onto the stator at the bottom of the tub. Secure the stator by tightening the bolt.
Step 8. Carefully lift your washing machine onto its feet, then peel the tape off the lid. Reconnect the drain hose to the port at the back of the cabinet, then slide the spring clamp into place.
Step 9. Reconnect the HOT and COLD water supply hoses the corresponding ports at the back of the machine (ensure that each hose is properly attached in order to prevent leaks).
Step 10. Plug your washing machine’s power cord into the outlet, then turn the water supply taps back on. To ensure that the issue has been fixed, try running a spin cycle.
Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will vary depending on the model of your machine.
6. Damaged Drive Block (Top Loaders)
If your KitchenAid washing machine is not spinning, it could be that the block on the transmission shaft is worn out. Follow the steps below to replace this part…
Step 1. In order to prevent electrocution, ensure that your machine is disconnected from the power outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver or a Torx screwdriver, take out the bolts at the back of the machine securing the wiring and tube guard. Take plate off and set it aside.
Step 3. Place some tape on the lid of your washer to secure it. Loosen the bolts at the back of the machine securing the top panel. Pull the panel forwards a bit, then lift and support it.
Step 4. Using a flat-blade screwdriver if needed, pry the tub cover off the assembly and set it aside.
Step 5. Pry the cap off the agitator, then pull the dust filter out. Loosen the bolt securing the agitator to the tub using a 7/16 inch socket wrench. Lift the agitator out of the machine and set it aside.
Step 6. Loosen the tub nut using a hammer and a pipe wrench. Carefully lift the inner tub out of the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 7. Use a hammer to carefully knock the old drive block off the transmission shaft. Discard the old block, then prepare the new one for installation by unpacking it.
Step 8. Push the new drive block onto the transmission shaft. Lower the inner tub onto the shaft. Secure the tub by tightening the tub nut.
Step 9. Lower the agitator onto the tub shaft, then secure it by tightening the 7/16 inch bolt.
Step 10. Push the filter into the agitator, then snap the cap on. Snap the tub cover onto the assembly.
Step 11. Lower the top panel onto the cabinet, then apply the bolts at the back using your Torx screwdriver. Peel the tape off your washer’s lid.
Step 12. Put the wiring and tube guard back in place, then secure it by applying the nuts.
Step 13. Plug your washing machine back into the power outlet, then ensure that the issue has been fixed by running a wash cycle.
Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will vary depending on the model of your machine.
7. Damaged Transmission (Top Loaders)
The transmission assembly is responsible for rotating the inner tub. If it fails, or the shaft gets broken, the drum will not spin properly. Follow the steps below to replace this part…
Step 1. Prevent electrocution and leakage by disconnecting your washing machine from the outlet and turning the water taps off before starting this repair.
Step 2. Disconnect the water supply hoses from the ports at the back of the machine (ensure that you keep a rag nearby in case water spills).
Step 3. Place some tape on the lid of your machine to help secure it. Squeeze the spring clamp securing the outlet hose to the back of the cabinet, then slide it out of place.
Step 4. Disconnect the outlet hose from the back of the machine. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the bolts at the back of the cabinet securing the wiring and tube guard. Take the guard off and set it aside.
Step 5. Loosen the bolts securing the top panel assembly. Slide the panel forwards a bit, then lift and support it.
Step 6. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to help pry the cover off the tub assembly. Pry the cap off the agitator, then pull the dust cap out.
Step 7. Using a pipe wrench and hammer, loosen the nut holding the tub to the shaft. Lift the inner tub out of the cabinet, then set it aside.
Step 8. Using your hammer, carefully knock the drive block off the transmission shaft. Lower the top panel carefully, then snap it back onto the cabinet. Apply the nut at the back to secure the panel.
Step 9. With someone assisting you, carefully tip your washing machine forwards and set it on the floor.
Step 10. Using a 5/16 inch nut-driver, take out the bolts securing the belt guard to the bottom of the tub. Take the guard off the machine and set it aside.
Step 11. Carefully unhook the drive belt from the transmission and motor pulley. Detach the wire harness from the motor, then release the wire from the retainer.
Step 12. Take out the bolts securing the drive motor to the transmission plate using a 13mm socket wrench. Lift the drive motor off and set it aside.
Step 13. Disconnect the wires from the capacitor and shift actuator on the transmission plate.
Step 14. Loosen the bolt securing the shift actuator to the transmission plate. Take the actuator off and set it aside.
Step 15. Take out the nuts securing the capacitor. Take the capacitor off the place and set it aside.
Step 16. With a 13mm socket, take out the nut securing the transmission pulley. Slide the pulley off the shaft and set it aside.
Step 17. Pry the splutch housing off the transmission shaft, then slide the basket drive gear and spring off.
Step 18. Loosen the bolts securing the transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Carefully pull the transmission assembly out of the tub and set it aside.
Step 19. Prepare the new transmission assembly for installation by unpacking it. Mount the transmission assembly at the bottom of the tub, then secure it by tightening the bolts with your socket wrench.
Step 20. Slide the spring and basket drive gear onto the transmission shaft at the bottom of the tub. Snap the splutch housing onto the shaft.
Step 21. Place the transmission pulley on the shaft, then apply the 13mm bolt to secure it.
Step 22. Mount the start capacitor and shift actuator on the plate, then secure them by tightening the bolts.
Step 23. Plug the wires connectors into the shift actuator and capacitor. Mount the drive motor on the transmission plate, then secure it by applying the bolts.
Step 24. Plug the wire harness into the drive motor, then secure it in the retainer. With the grooved side facing inwards, loop the belt around the two pulleys.
Step 25. Put the belt guard back on, then apply the bolts. Carefully lift your washer back onto its feet.
Step 26. Loosen the bolts securing the top panel. Lift the top panel carefully and support it.
Step 27. Push the drive block onto the transmission shaft. Lower the inner tub into the cabinet.
Step 28. Tighten the tub nut using a pipe wrench and hammer. Lower the agitator into the tub, then tighten the 7/16 inch bolt.
Step 29. Push the dust filter into the agitator and snap the cap on. Snap the tub cover onto the assembly.
Step 30. Lower the top panel onto the cabinet, then apply the Torx screws at the back to secure.
Step 31. Reconnect the drain hose to the port at the lower rear of the tub. Slide the spring clamp into place to secure the connection.
Step 32. Reattach the COLD and HOT water supply hoses to their corresponding ports (in order to prevent leakage, ensure that each hose is properly attached).
Step 33. Turn the water taps back on, then reconnect the power cord to the outlet. Ensure that the issue has been fixed by running a spin cycle.
Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will vary depending on the model of your machine.
8. Damaged Idler Pulley (Dryers)
If the idler pulley in your KitchenAid dryer is damaged, it will prevent the drum from spinning. Follow the steps below to replace this part…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, disconnect your appliance from the power outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a Torx screwdriver or a 1/4 inch nut-driver, loosen the bolts at the back of the machine securing the top panel.
Step 3. Slide the panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the cabinet. Take out the bolts at the top of the control panel.
Step 4. Disconnect the control panel wire harness from the control board. Pry the panel off the front of the cabinet, then set it aside.
Step 5. With someone assisting you, carefully tip your machine backwards and support it. Loosen the bolts at the bottom of the front panel.
Step 6. Set your washing machine back onto its feet. Open the door of the machine, then loosen the nuts at the bottom of the opening.
Step 7. Disconnect the door switch wire harness from the control board. Loosen the bolts at the top of the front panel. Lift the front panel off the cabinet, then set it aside.
Step 8. With your nut-driver, take out the bolts securing the control board bracket to the control panel’s mounting bracket. Move the control board out of place and support it.
Step 9. Take out the nuts securing the control panel’s mounting bracket to the front of the cabinet. Lift the bracket off the machine and set it aside.
Step 10. Loosen the bolts securing the lower support bracket underneath the front bulkhead.
Step 11. Disconnect the moisture sensor wire harness on the front bulkhead. Take out the bolts securing the bulkhead to the front of the cabinet. Lift the bulkhead off the machine and set it aside.
Step 12. Carefully reach underneath the drum, then push the idler pulley inwards (this will release the tension on the drive belt).
Step 13. Unhook the belt from the pulleys. Carefully lift the belt and drum out of the cabinet, then set them aside.
Step 14. Using needle-nosed pliers, pry off the tri-ring securing the idler pulley to the support arm. Slide the pulley off the arm and set it aside.
Step 15. Prepare the new idler pulley for installation by unpacking it. Slide the new pulley wheel onto the shaft. Secure the pulley by snapping the tri-ring on.
Step 16. Carefully guide the belt and drum back into the cabinet. Reach underneath the drum, then hook the belt onto the idler and motor pulleys in a zig-zag formation.
Step 17. Rotate the drum by hand to ensure that the belt is properly aligned. Lift the front bulkhead carefully and mount it on the cabinet. Secure the bulkhead by applying the bolts.
Step 18. Put the lower support bracket back underneath the front bulkhead, then secure it by tightening the bolts.
Step 19. Place the control panel mounting bracket at the top of the bulkhead, then secure it by tightening the nuts.
Step 20. Mount the control board assembly on the front bracket, then tighten the nuts.
Step 21. Carefully lift and mount the front panel on the cabinet. Secure the panel by tightening the bolts at the top.
Step 22. Open the dryer’s door, then apply the bolts at the bottom of the opening. Tip your washing machine backwards and support it.
Step 23. Using your nut-driver, apply the bolts at the bottom of the front panel. Set your washing machine onto its feet.
Step 24. Plug the door switch wire harness into the control board. Mount the control panel on the cabinet, then tighten the bolts a the top using your nut-driver.
Step 25. Reconnect the control panel wire harness into the control board. Mount the top panel onto the cabinet, then push it forwards. Secure the panel by applying the bolts at the back.
Step 26. Reconnect your appliance to the power outlet, then ensure that the issue has been fixed by running a cycle.
Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will vary depending on the model of your machine.
9. Damaged Bearings
The bearings are mounted in the outer tub and help the inner tub shaft spin freely. If your KitchenAid washing machine is not spinning, it could be that the bearings are warped.
If the drum doesn’t spin freely when turned by hand, you’ll need to replace the bearings. Here’s how to do this…
Top Loaders
Follow the steps below to replace damaged bearings in your top loader KitchenAid washing machine…
Tools Needed:
- Hammer
- Tape
- Towel
- Pliers
- Putty knife
- Adjustable wrench
- Philips screwdriver
- Lanyard
- 3/8, 5/16, and 7/16 inch socket wrenches
- 1/4 Inch Allen wrench
- New bearing kit
- Bearing installation tool kit
Step 1. Disconnect your washing machine from the power outlet and turn the water taps off in order to prevent leakage and electrocution.
Step 2. Place some tape on your washing machine’s lid to secure it. Insert a putty knife underneath the top panel to release the locking clips.
Step 3. Lift the top panel and support it using a lanyard. Using your pliers, squeeze the clamp securing the circulation hose to the tub cover.
Step 4. Detach the hose from the tub cover. Pry the tub cover off the tub assembly. Pry the agitator’s cap off, then pull the dust filter out.
Step 5. Take out the bolt securing the agitator to the inner tub using your 7/16 inch socket wrench. Lift the agitator out of the tub and set it aside.
Step 6. Using a Philips screwdriver, loosen the bolts securing the basket hub. Pull the basket hub out of the inner tub and set it aside.
Step 7. Lift the inner tub out of the cabinet carefully, then set it aside. Lower the top panel and snap it onto the cabinet.
Step 8. Disconnect the COLD and HOT water supply hoses from the ports at the back of the machine (keep a rag nearby in case water spills).
Step 9. Using a pair of pliers if needed, release the spring clamp securing the drain hose to the back of the machine. Detach the hose from the cabinet.
Step 10. Carefully tip your washing machine backwards and set it on the floor (if needed, get someone to assist you).
Step 11. Using your 1/4 inch Allen wrench, loosen the bolt securing the rotor to the bottom of the tub. Pry the rotor off the machine carefully and set it aside (this will require some effort).
Step 12. Disconnect the wire harnesses from the stator at the bottom of the tub. Loosen the bolts securing the stator to the tub using a 3/8 inch socket. Lift the stator off the tub and set it aside.
Step 13. Pry the rotor position sensor off the stator, then set it aside. Secure the drive shaft at the bottom of the tub using your pliers. Loosen the bolt securing the shaft using your adjustable wrench.
Step 14. Using your mallet, knock the drive tube through the tub opening. Carefully lift your washing machine onto its feet. Lift the top panel and support it.
Step 15. Lift the drive tube out of the tub and discard it. Using a hammer and the bearing removal rod provided in the installation kit, knock the lower bearing out of the tub.
Step 16. Lower the top panel, then tip the machine backwards and support it. Take out the bearing pieces at the bottom of the tub.
Step 17. Using your hammer and rod, knock the upper bearing out from the bottom of the tub.
Step 18. Set the machine back onto its feet, then lift and support the top panel. Take the upper bearing out of the tub, then discard it.
Step 19. Clean the bearing seat using a cloth. Prepare your new washing machine bearings for installation by unpacking it.
Step 20. Apply some liquid soap to the new upper bearing, then push it firmly into the seat on the tub.
Step 21. Unpack the bearing installation tool, then unscrew the three lower pieces from the arm. Slide the installation arm through the bearing opening.
Step 22. Lower the top panel and snap it onto the cabinet. Carefully tip your machine backwards and support it.
Step 23. Slide the new washer and spacer tube onto the installation tool shaft. Push the new lower bearing into the opening at the bottom of the tub.
Step 24. Screw the lower pieces onto the installation tool arm, then tighten the bolt using your wrench (this will force the lower bearing into its seat).
Step 25. Once the lower bearing is properly in place, loosen the three lower pieces on the installation tool arm.
Step 26. Carefully lift your washing machine onto its feet. Lift the top panel and support it.
Step 27. Pull the bearing installation tool out of the tub and set it aside. Take the new drive tube provided in the bearing kit, then slide it through the opening on the tub.
Step 28. Using a hammer and a block of wood, carefully knock the drive tube into place. Lower the top panel, then tip the machine backwards.
Step 29. Secure the drive tube using pliers, then tighten the bolt with an adjustable wrench.
Step 30. Reconnect the wire harnesses to the terminals on the stator. Mount the stator at the bottom of the tub, then secure it by tightening the 3/8 inch bolts.
Step 31. Mount the rotor on the stator, then tighten the 1/4 inch nut to secure it. Carefully lift your washing machine onto its feet, then lift and support the top panel.
Step 34. Using the provided grease, fill the grooves of the new bearing seal. Apply some of the provided adhesive to the outer side of the bearing seal.
Step 35. Push the bearing seal into place above the upper bearing. Apply an even coat of adhesive to the top of the bearing seal.
Step 36. Using a towel, clean off any excess grease or adhesive from the drive tube and outer tub.
Step 39. In order to let the adhesive cure, it is advised that you leave your machine for about 24 hours before starting a cycle.
Step 40. Lift the inner tub carefully, then lower it onto the drive tube. Put the basket hub back in place, then tighten the screws to secure it.
Step 41. Snap the tub cover onto the assembly. Reconnect the circulation hose to the port on the tub cover, then slide the spring clamp into place.
Step 42. Lower the agitator into the tub, then secure it by tightening the 7/16 inch bolt. Push the dust filer into the agitator, then snap the cap on.
Step 43. Lower the top panel and snap it onto the cabinet. Peel the tape off the lid of your washer.
Step 44. Reconnect the drain hose to the port at the back of the machine. Slide the hose into place to secure the connection.
Step 45. Reconnect the COLD and HOT water supply hoses to the corresponding ports at the back of the machine (ensure that each hose is properly attached in order to prevent leaks).
Step 46. Turn the water supply taps back on, then plug the power cord into the outlet. To ensure that the problem has been fixed, try running a spin cycle.
Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will vary depending on your washer’s model.
Front Loaders
Follow the steps below to replace the bearings in your front loader KitchenAid washing machine by following the steps below…
Tools Needed:
- New bearing kit
- 7mm, 13mm, 24mm socket wrenches
- Torx screwdriver
- Pliers
- Hammer
- Flat-blade screwdriver
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution or leakage, it is advised that you disconnect your washing machine from the outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Loosen the bolts at the back of the machine securing the top panel using your Torx screwdriver. Pull the panel backwards a few inches and lift it off the cabinet.
Step 3. Take out the bolts securing the rear panel. Lift the panel upwards, then detach it from the cabinet.
Step 4. Loosen the screws securing the lower and upper rear braces to the cabinet. Take the braces off the cabinet and set them aside.
Step 5. Go to the front of the machine, then slide the soap tray out. Press the little tab inside to release it from the housing.
Step 6. Use your Torx screwdriver to take out the bolt next to the dispenser opening. Disconnect the control panel’s wire harness from the control board.
Step 7. Release the control panel wire from the wire harness retaining bracket on the cabinet. Pry the control panel off the cabinet, then set it aside.
Step 8. Wedge a flat-blade screwdriver underneath the metal wire around the door boot seal. Work the screwdriver around carefully until the wire pops off.
Step 9. Peel the door boot seal off the door opening. With your Torx screwdriver, take out the bolts securing the door switch to the front panel.
Step 10. Using your Torx screwdriver, take out the bolts at the underneath the lower front access panel. Pry the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 11. Take out the bolts at the top and bottom of the front panel. Lift the main front panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 12. Detach the inlet tube from the port at the top of the door boot seal. Take out the bolts securing the top frame braces to the front of the cabinet.
Step 13. Move the brace out of place, then release the inlet tube from the retainer. Disconnect the dispenser’s hose from the port at the top of the drum. Push the dispenser assembly backwards, then lift it out of place.
Step 14. Using your 7mm socket, loosen the bolt securing the inner retaining wire to the door boot seal. Pry the wire off the seal.
Step 15. Peel the door boot seal off the drum opening. Using your 13mm socket wrench, take out the bolts securing the lower and upper weights to the front of the drum. Carefully lift each weight off the machine and set it aside.
Step 16. Go to the back of the machine, then use your socket wrench to take out the nuts securing the rear weight. Lift the weight off the machine carefully.
Step 17. Unhook the drive belt from the motor pulley and drive pulley. Jam the drive pulley using the arm of a hammer.
Step 18. Take out the bolt securing the drive pulley to the inner tub shaft using your 24mm socket wrench. Slide the pulley off the shaft and set it aside.
Step 19. Disconnect the wires attached to the drive motor at the bottom of the tub (ensure that you note where each plug goes).
Step 20. Release the wires from the retainer the drive motor. Use your Torx screwdriver to take out the bolt securing the grounding wire near the bearing hub at the back of the tub.
Step 21. Take out the bolts securing the pressure chamber to the back of the tub. Pry the pressure chamber off the port.
Step 22. Go to the front of the machine, then place a container underneath the emergency drain tube.
Step 23. Pull the cap off the hose, then drain out the water stuck in the drum. Once you’ve drained out all the water, put the hose’s cap back on.
Step 24. Use pliers to release the spring clamp securing the sump hose to the port at the bottom of the tub (ensure that you keep a rag nearby to clean any leaks).
Step 25. Release the retaining clamp securing the second outlet hose to the port at the upper rear of the tub. Detach the hose from the machine.
Step 26. Grab the top of each of the four shock absorbers, then rotate them. Pull them out of the mounts at the bottom of the tub.
Step 27. Disconnect the thermistor wire harness at the lower front of the tub. Release the thermistor wire from the retainer at the bottom of the tub.
Step 28. Use your flat-blade screwdriver to pry the wire harness retaining bracket off the cabinet.
Step 29. Carefully lift the two suspension springs and unhook them from the cabinet. Guide the tub assembly out of the cabinet.
Step 30. Unhook the two springs from the tub. Using your flat-blade screwdriver, pry off the retaining clips securing the two halves of the tub. Lift the front half of the outer tub off the assembly.
Step 31. Turn the rear half of the outer tub over, then apply some anti-rust oil to the inner tub shaft. Turn the tub assembly over.
Step 32. Lift the inner tub out of the rear half of the outer tub, then set it aside. Set the rear half of the outer tub on two supports facing upwards.
Step 33. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the bearing seal out of the tub. Turn the rear half of the outer tub over, then set it on the supports.
Step 34. Using a hammer and a punch, knock out the inner bearing from the bottom of the tub. Turn the tub over, then knock the outer bearing out in the same way.
Step 35. Clean the bearing seat using a rag. Prepare the new bearing assembly for installation by unpacking it.
Step 36. Apply some liquid soap to the new outer bearing. Turn the rear half of the outer tub over, then set it on supports.
Step 37. Place the new outer bearing on the opening on the tub. To ensure that the bearing sits evenly in the tub, place a block of wood on the bearing, then knock the bearing into the tub using your hammer.
Step 38. Turn the tub assembly over, then knock the inner bearing into place using your hammer.
Step 39. Apply some liquid soap to the outer part of the new tub seal, then push the seal into place above the bearing.
Step 40. Set the rear half of the outer tub on the supports. Lower the inner tub into the rear half of the outer tub.
Step 41. Check the rubber seal in the groove of the rear half of the outer tub. If the seal is damaged, it is advised that you replace it.
Step 42. Lower the front half of the outer tub onto the tub assembly. Secure the two halves of the tub by snapping the retaining clips on using your hammer.
Step 43. Attach the two suspension springs to the mounts on the tub. Lift the tub assembly, then guide it into the cabinet.
Step 44. Lift the two springs and hook them onto the cabinet mounts. Snap the wire harness retaining bracket into the cabinet.
Step 45. Grab each of the four shock absorbers, then push them into the mounts at the bottom of the tub. Rotate the shock absorbers to lock them in place.
Step 46. Go to the front of the machine, then mount the lower and upper weights onto the drum. Secure the weights by tightening the 13mm bolts.
Step 47. Carefully fit the door boot seal around the drum opening. Fit the inner retaining wire around the door seal, then secure it by tightening the 7mm bolt.
Step 48. Mount the rear weight on the tub, then apply the bolts. Attach the sump hose to the port at the bottom of the machine, then use your pliers to slide the retaining clamp into place.
Step 49. Connect the second outlet hose to the port at the upper rear of the tub. Move the retaining clamp into place using your pliers.
Step 50. Mount the pressure chamber at the back of the tub, then secure it by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 51. Remount the drive motor at the bottom of the tub. Secure the motor by applying the 13mm bolts.
Step 52. Reconnect the wire harnesses to the drive motor. Use your Torx screwdriver to tighten the bolt on the grounding wire next to the bearing hub.
Step 53. Place the drive pulley on the inner tub shaft, then secure it by tightening the 24mm bolt.
Step 54. With the grooved side turned inwards, loop the drive belt around the motor pulley and drive pulley.
Step 55. Place the lower and upper rear braces on the cabinet, then secure them by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 56. Move the dispenser back into place on the cabinet. Reconnect the dispenser hose to the port at the top of the drum.
Step 57. Secure the inlet tube in the retainer on the top frame brace. Mount the top frame brace on the cabinet, then secure it by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 58. Attach the inlet tube to the port at the top of the door boot seal. Reconnect the thermistor wire harness at the lower front of the tub, then secure the wire in the retainer.
Step 59. Mount the main front panel on the cabinet, then use your Torx screwdriver to apply the bolts at the top and bottom.
Step 60. Snap the lower access panel onto the machine, then apply the bolts to secure it.
Step 61. Pass the control panel wire through the opening on the top frame brace. Plug the control panel wire into the main control board, then secure the wire in the retainer.
Step 62. Snap the control panel onto the cabinet, then apply the nut next to the dispenser opening.
Step 63. Push the soap tray into the dispenser. Open the door of the machine, then push the door lock into place.
Step 64. Secure the door lock to the front panel by tightening the Torx screws. Fit the door boot seal around the front panel.
Step 65. Fit the outer retaining wire around the door seal using a flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 66. Place the top panel on the cabinet, then apply the bolts at the back using your Torx screwdriver.
Step 67. Place the rear panel on the cabinet, then secure them by applying the bolts. Turn the water supply on, then reconnect the power cord to the outlet. To ensure that the issue has been fixed, try running a spin cycle.
Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will vary greatly depending on the model of your machine.
10. Broken Inner Tub Shaft (Front Loaders)
If the inner tub shaft breaks, or the spider gets cracked, the drum will not turn at all (even when spun by hand). Follow the steps below to replace your washer’s inner tub…
Tools Needed:
- Pliers
- Hammer
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Torx 10, 20, 25 screwdrivers
- 7mm, 13mm, 24mm socket wrenches
- New inner tub
Step 1. Disconnect your washing machine from the power outlet and turn the water taps off before starting this repair in order to prevent leakage and electrocution.
Step 2. With your Torx 20 screwdriver, loosen the bolts at the back of the machine securing the top panel. Slide the panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the cabinet.
Step 3. Take out the bolts securing the rear panel. Lift the panel off the machine off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 4. Use your Torx screwdriver to take out the nuts securing the lower and upper braces to the back of the cabinet. Take the braces off the cabinet and set them aside.
Step 5. Go to the front of the machine, then pull the detergent tray out. Press the little tab in the tray to release it from the housing.
Step 6. Loosen the bolt next to the dispenser opening on the control panel using your Torx 20 screwdriver.
Step 7. Disconnect the control panel wire harness from the control board. Release the control panel wire from the retainers.
Step 8. Pry the control panel off the mounting bracket, then set it aside. Use your Torx screwdriver to take out the bolts securing the lower front access panel. Lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 9. Open the door of your washing machine. Wedge a flat-blade screwdriver underneath the retaining wire around the door seal. Work the screwdriver around until the wire pops off.
Step 10. Peel the door boot seal off the front panel. Use your Torx screwdriver to take out the nuts securing the door lock to the front panel.
Step 11. Take out the bolts at the top and bottom of the main front panel. Carefully lift the main front panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 12. Detach the inlet tube from the port at the top of the door seal. Loosen the nuts securing the top frame brace to the cabinet.
Step 13. Lift the brace off the cabinet, then release the inlet tube from the retainer. Set the top frame brace aside.
Step 14. Detach the dispenser’s hose from the port at the top of the drum. Slide the dispenser backwards, then push it aside.
Step 15. With a 13mm socket wrench, take out the nuts securing the upper and lower weights to the front of the drum. Lift each weight off the drum and set it aside.
Step 16. With your 7mm socket, loosen the nut securing the inner retaining clamp to the door boot seal. Pry the door seal off the drum opening and set it aside.
Step 17. Go to the back of the machine, then unhook the drive belt from the motor pulley and drive pulley.
Step 18. Use a hammer to jam the drive pulley. Loosen the bolt securing the drive pulley using a 24mm socket wrench. Slide the pulley off the shaft and set it aside.
Step 19. Loosen the bolt securing the grounding wire near the bearing hub using your Torx 10 screwdriver.
Step 20. Disconnect the wires from the drive motor at the bottom of the tub. Take out the bolts securing the drive motor to the bottom of the tub.
Step 21. Lift the motor off the bottom of the tub, then set it down. Take out the bolts securing the rear weight to the drum. Lift the weight off the drum and set it aside.
Step 22. Take out the nuts securing the pressure chamber to the back of the tub. Go to the lower front of the machine, then place a container underneath the emergency drain tube.
Step 23. Pull the cap off the tube, then drain out any water stuck in the machine. Once all the water has drained out, put the hose’s cap on.
Step 24. Go to the back of the machine, then place a rag underneath the tub. Use pliers to squeeze the clamp securing the sump hose, then slide it out of place.
Step 25. Detach the sump hose from the bottom of the tub. Release the spring clamp securing the second outlet hose to the upper rear of the tub. Detach the hose from the tub.
Step 26. Grab the top of each of the four shock absorbers, rotate them, then detach them from the tub.
Step 27. Disconnect the thermistor wire harness at the lower front of the tub. Release the thermistor wire from the retainer at the bottom of the tub.
Step 28. Using your flat-blade screwdriver, pry the wire harness retaining bracket off the cabinet.
Step 29. Lift the two suspension springs, then unhook them from the cabinet. Lower the tub assembly, then carefully guide it out of the cabinet.
Step 30. Turn the tub assembly over, then set it face-down on the floor. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry off the retaining clips securing the two halves of the outer tub.
Step 31. Lift the front half of the outer tub off the tub assembly and set it aside. Lift the inner tub out of the rear half of the outer tub.
Step 32. Prepare your new inner tub for installation by unpacking it. Lower the inner tub into the rear half of the outer tub.
Step 33. Lower the front half of the outer tub onto the tub assembly. Use your hammer to snap the retaining clips on.
Step 34. Attach the two suspension springs to the tub mounts. Lift the tub assembly, then guide it back into the cabinet.
Step 35. Lift the two suspension springs and hook them onto the cabinet. Snap the wire harness retaining clips into the cabinet.
Step 36. Grab the tops of each of the four shock absorbers, then push them into the mounts at the bottom of the tub. Rotate the shocks to secure them.
Step 37. Lift the front weights, then mount them on the drum. Secure the weights by tightening the 13mm bolts.
Step 38. Go to the back of the machine, then mount the rear weight on the drum. Secure the weight by tightening the 13mm bolts.
Step 39. Connect the outlet hose to the port at the upper rear of the tub. Slide the retaining clamp into place using your pliers.
Step 40. Connect the sump hose to the port at the bottom of the tub. Using your pliers, slide the spring clamp into place.
Step 41. Mount the drive motor at the bottom of the tub. Secure the motor by applying the 13mm bolts.
Step 42. Plug the wires into the drive motor. With your Torx 10 screwdriver, tighten the bolt to secure the grounding wire near the bearing hub.
Step 43. Place pressure chamber at the back of the tub, then secure it by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 44. Mount the drive pulley on the inner tub shaft. Secure the pulley by tightening the 24mm bolt with your socket wrench.
Step 45. With the grooved side turned inwards, loop the drive belt around the motor pulley and drive pulley.
Step 46. Mount the lower and upper rear braces on the cabinet, then secure them by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 47. Go to the front of the machine, then fit the door boot seal around the drum opening. Fit the inner retaining wire around the door boot seal. Tighten the retaining wire by applying the 7mm bolt.
Step 48. Move the detergent dispenser back into place on the cabinet. Reconnect the dispenser hose to the port at the top of the drum.
Step 49. Secure the inlet tube in the retainer on the top frame brace. Mount the top frame brace on the cabinet, then tighten the bolts to secure it.
Step 50. Connect the inlet tube to the port at the top of the door boot seal. Plug the wire harness into the thermistor at the lower front of the tub. Push the thermistor wire into the slots at the bottom of the tub.
Step 51. Lift the main front panel, then mount it on the cabinet. Secure the panel by applying the nuts at the top and bottom.
Step 52. Snap the lower front access panel onto the cabinet, then use your Torx screwdriver to apply the bolts.
Step 53. Open your washing machine’s door. Reach in behind the front panel, then push the door lock into place.
Step 54. Secure the door lock to the front panel by tightening the Torx screws. Fit the door boot seal around the front panel.
Step 55. Fit the outer retaining wire around the door seal using your flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 56. Pass the control panel’s wire harness through the opening on the top frame brace. Snap the control panel onto the cabinet.
Step 57. Tighten the bolt next to the dispenser opening using your Torx screwdriver. Push the soap tray into the dispenser opening.
Step 58. Plug the control panel wire harness into the control board, then secure the wire in the retaining bracket.
Step 59. Snap the rear access panel onto the cabinet, then use your Torx screwdriver to apply the bolts.
Step 60. Mount the top panel on the cabinet, then push it forwards. Secure the panel by applying the Torx screws.
Step 61. Plug your washing machine’s power cord into the outlet, then turn the water supply taps on. Ensure that the problem has been fixed by running a spin cycle.
Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will be a bit different depending on the model of your washing machine.
11. Faulty Rotor Position Sensor
If your KitchenAid washing machine is not spinning, it could be caused by a damaged rotor position sensor. If your appliance uses a rotor, you may need to replace the position sensor. Follow the steps below to do this…
Front Loader
Replace a burnt rotor position sensor in your front loader KitchenAid washing machine by following the steps below…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, disconnect your washing machine’s power cord from the outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a Torx 20 screwdriver or a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the bolts securing the rear access panel to the cabinet. Lift the rear panel off the cabinet, then set it aside.
Step 3. Secure the rotor using a strap wrench. Loosen the bolt securing the rotor to the back of the tub using an 11/16 inch socket wrench. Pry the rotor off the tub (this will require some effort).
Step 4. Use a T-40 Torx bit to take out the nuts securing the stator to the back of the tub. Lift the stator off the tub.
Step 5. Disconnect the wire harness from the rotor position sensor on the stator. Pry the rotor position sensor off the stator using your flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 6. Prepare the new rotor position sensor for installation by unpacking it. Snap the new sensor onto the stator, then plug the wire harness in.
Step 7. Mount the stator at the back of the tub, then secure it by tightening the bolts. Place the rotor on the stator, then tighten the 11/16 inch bolt.
Step 8. Mount the rear access panel onto the cabinet. Secure the rear panel by applying the Torx screws.
Step 9. Plug your washing machine’s power cord into the outlet, then try running a spin cycle to ensure that the issue has been fixed.
Top Loaders
Follow the steps below to replace the rotor position sensor in your top loader KitchenAid washing machine…
Step 1. Turn your washer’s water supply taps off and disconnect the power cord from the outlet before starting this repair in order to prevent leaks and electrocution.
Step 2. Using a pair of pliers if needed, disconnect the COLD and HOT water supply hoses form the ports at the back of the machine (ensure that you keep rag nearby in case water spills).
Step 3. Pull your washer’s drain hose out of the standpipe. Place some tape on the lid of your washing machine to secure it.
Step 4. With someone assisting you, carefully tip your washing machine forwards and set it on the floor.
Step 5. Using a 1/4 inch Allen wrench, take out the bolt securing the rotor to the bottom of the tub. Pry the rotor off the machine (this will require some effort).
Step 6. With a 7mm socket, loosen the bolts securing the stator to the bottom of the tub. Lift the stator off the machine.
Step 7. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry the rotor position sensor off the stator. Disconnect the wire harness, then discard the sensor.
Step 8. Prepare your new washing machine rotor position sensor for installation by unpacking it.
Step 9. Snap the new sensor onto the stator, then plug the wire harness in. Remount the stator at the bottom of the tub, then secure it by tightening the 7mm bolts.
Step 10. Place the rotor on the stator, then use your 1/4 inch Allen wrench to tighten the bolt.
Step 11. Carefully lift your washing machine onto its feet, then peel the tape off the lid. Reinsert the drain hose into the standpipe.
Step 12. Reconnect the HOT and COLD water supply hoses to the corresponding ports at the back of the machine.
Step 13. Plug the power cord into the outlet, then turn the water supply taps back on. Ensure that the problem has been fixed by running a spin cycle.
Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will be a bit different depending on the model of your washing machine.
12. Damaged Drum Rollers (Dryers)
The rollers in your dryer support the drum and help it turn smoothly. If the rollers get damaged, the drum won’t be able to spin. Follow the steps below to replace this part…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, it is advised that you disconnect your machine from the outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a Torx screwdriver, take out the bolts securing the top panel. Slide the panel backwards and lift it off the cabinet.
Step 3. Disconnect the control panel’s wire harness from the control board. Take out the nuts at the top of the control panel. Pry the control panel off the mounting bracket, then set it aside.
Step 4. Loosen the nuts securing the control board bracket to the front of the cabinet. Move the control board bracket out of place, then support it.
Step 5. Disconnect the door switch wire harness from the control board. Tip the machine backwards carefully, then support it.
Step 6. Take out the bolts at the bottom of the front panel. Set your washing machine onto its feet.
Step 7. Open the door of your dryer, then take out the bolts at the bottom of the opening. Take out the screws at the top of the front panel.
Step 8. Lift the front panel off the cabinet carefully, then set it aside. Disconnect the moisture sensor wire harness at the bottom of the front bulkhead.
Step 9. Loosen the bolts securing the bulkhead to the cabinet. Lift the bulkhead off the machine, then set it aside. Take out the bolts securing the control panel’s mounting bracket, then pull it out of place.
Step 10. Reach underneath the drum, then push the idler pulley inwards to release the tension on the belt. Unhook the drive belt from the idler pulley and motor pulley.
Step 11. Lift the drum and drive belt out of the cabinet, then carefully set them aside. Use needle-nosed pliers to pry off the tri-ring securing the drum roller you want to replace to the shaft on the rear bulkhead.
Step 12. Slide the damaged roller off the shaft, then discard it. Prepare your new washing machine drum roller for installation by unpacking it.
Step 13. Slide the new drum roller onto the shaft. Secure the roller by snapping the tri-ring on.
Step 14. Lift the belt and drum, then carefully guide them into the cabinet. Reach underneath the drum, then hook the drive belt onto the idler pulley and motor pulley in a zig-zag formation.
Step 15. Turn the drum by hand to ensure that the belt is properly aligned. Lift the front bulkhead, then mount it on the drum. Secure the bulkhead by tightening the nuts.
Step 16. Plug the moisture sensor wire harness back in. Place the control panel’s mounting bracket on the cabinet, then secure it by applying the bolts.
Step 17. Lift the front panel and mount it on the cabinet. Use your nut-driver to apply the bolts at the top of the panel.
Step 18. Tip your washing machine backwards carefully, then apply the bolts at the bottom. Set your dryer back onto its feet.
Step 19. Open your dryer’s door, then apply the bolts at the bottom of the door opening.
Step 20. Remount the control board’s bracket on the cabinet, then tighten the screws. Reconnect the door switch wire harness to the control board.
Step 21. Snap the control panel onto the mounting bracket, then apply the bolts at the top to secure it.
Step 22. Plug the control panel’s wire harness into the control board. Mount the top panel on the cabinet, then secure it by tightening the screws at the back.
Step 23. Reconnect your appliance to the power outlet, then try running a cycle to ensure that everything works properly.
