If your Amana washing machine is knocking around during cycles, you’ve come to the right place. This detailed guide explains the causes of this issue and provides steps on how to fix them. So, without further ado, let’s begin…
Table of Contents
Amana Washing Machine Is Knocking Around During Spin Cycle — Solved
If your Amana washing machine is knocking around during spin cycles, look for the following issues (and fix them)…
1. Cracked Spider Support Arm (Front Loaders)
If your front loader washing machine is knocking around when spinning, it could be as a result of a cracked spider support arm. Take the following steps to replace this part…
Step 1. Make sure to disconnect your washing machine from the electrical outlet and turn the water supply valve off before starting this repair.
Step 2. Pull the drain hose out of your home drain. With a pair of pliers, unscrew the two water supply hoses attached to the ports at the back of your machine (ensure that you keep a rag nearby to clean any water leaks.
Step 3. Loosen the screws holding the rear access panel off your machine. Lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 4. Remove the nuts securing the top panel using a 1/4 inch nut-driver. Slide the panel backwards about an inch or so, and lift it off the machine.
Step 5. Pull the detergent drawer out and press the tab to completely release it from the housing.
Step 6. Remove the screw next to the detergent drawer housing and the screws at the top of the control panel. Pry the control panel off the front of the machine. Unplug each wire connector attached to the board (make sure to note where each one goes).
Step 7. Open your washing machine’s door. Using either a flat-blade screwdriver or a pair of needle-nosed pliers, pull out the retaining wire around the door boot seal (take care not to damage the seal).
Step 8. Peel the door seal off the door opening. Use a Philips screwdriver to remove the screws holding the door lock to the cabinet.
Step 9. Remove the screws at the top of the front panel (ensure that you support the panel). Carefully lift the front panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 10. Loosen the nut holding the temperature sensor harness to the front of the tub. Pull the temperature wire connector off.
Step 11. Remove the bolt holding the air dome tube retainer to the tub. Squeeze the clamp that connects the tube to the front of the tub and slide it out of place. Pull the tube off the outer tub.
Step 12. Use a 13mm socket wrench to loosen the bolts holding the two counter-weights to the front of the machine. Carefully lift each counter-weight off the tub and set them aside.
Step 13. Use your socket wrench to loosen the upper bolts holding the shock absorbers to the mounts on the tub. Pull each shock out of the mount.
Step 14. Cut any zip-ties holding at the front of the outer tub. Squeeze the clamp holding the detergent dispenser hose to the top of the door boot seal and slide it out of place. Pull the hose off the tub.
Step 15. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove all the bolts holding the two halves of the outer tub assembly.
Step 16. While supporting the tub with your hand, lift one of the suspension springs and unhook it from the tub.
Step 17. Pry that side of the tub apart using a flat-blade screwdriver. Hook the spring onto the back half of the outer tub. Repeat this process with the second spring.
Step 18. Pull the front half of the outer tub out of the cabinet and set it aside. Go to the back of your machine and take the drive belt off the two pulleys.
Step 19. With a 19mm socket wrench, remove the bolt holding the pulley wheel to the back of the tub. Take the pulley wheel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 20. Knock the shaft through the bearing opening at the back of the tub using a hammer. Go to the front of the machine and pull the inner tub out of the cabinet.
Step 21. Turn the inner tub upside-down, and lay it on the floor. Loosen the six bolts securing the spider arm assembly using a 10mm socket wrench. Take the assembly off the inner tub and discard it.
Step 22. Remove your new washing machine spider arm from its packaging. Mount the new spider arm on the inner tub and secure it with the six new bolts.
Step 23. Lift the inner tub and mount it inside the outer tub. Put the drive pulley back onto the shaft at the back of the tub and secure it with the 19mm bolt.
Step 24 Loop the drive belt back around the two pulleys. Place the rear access panel on the cabinet and apply the screws to secure it.
Step 25. Guide the front half of the outer tub into the cabinet. Unhook one of the suspension springs and hook it through the openings on the two halves of the tub. Repeat this process with the second suspension spring.
Step 26. Using your socket wrench, apply all the nuts to secure the two halves of the tub.
Step 27. Push the shock absorbers into the mounts at the bottom of the tub and secure them with the bolts.
Step 28. Connect the detergent dispenser hose to the port at the front of the tub and secure it using the retaining clamp.
Step 29. Plug the temperature sensor wire connector to the front of the tub. Secure the wire retainer with the screw.
Step 30. Connect the air dome tube to the port at the front of the tub and use the retaining clamp to secure it. Secure the tube harness by applying the screw.
Step 31. Place the two counter-weights onto the front of the outer tub and apply the bolts using your socket wrench.
Step 32. Snap the front panel back onto the cabinet and apply the nuts at the tub with your nut-driver.
Step 33. Open the door of your machine. Fit the door lock back in place. Secure the door lock to the cabinet by applying the screws with your Philips screwdriver.
Step 34. Fit the door boot seal back around the door opening. Using your flat-blade screwdriver or a pair of pliers, fit the retaining wire around the door opening.
Step 35. Plug each wire connector into its corresponding terminal on the control panel. Snap the control panel onto the cabinet and secure it by applying all the screws.
Step 36. Push the detergent drawer back into the housing. Slide the top panel back onto the cabinet and apply the nuts at the back to secure it.
Step 37. Reattach the COLD and HOT water supply hoses to the ports at the back of your machine (ensure that both hoses are secured properly so water can’t spill).
Step 38. Reconnect your washing machine to its power outlet and turn the water supply valve back on. Make sure the issue has been fixed by running a spin cycle.
2. Damaged Suspension Rods (Top Loaders)
If your top loader Amana washing machine is knocking around when spinning, damaged suspension rods are the most common cause. Here’s what you’ll need to do to replace the rods in your machine…
Step 1. Before starting this repair, disconnect your washing machine from its power outlet and turn the water valve off in order to prevent electrocution and water leakage.
Step 2. Use your pliers to release the spring clamp on the drain hose at the back of the washer and slide it out of place. Pull the hose off the machine.
Step 3. With a pair of pliers, disconnect the HOT and COLD water inlet hoses from the ports at the back of your washing machine (spread a rag or towel underneath the hoses to catch any water leaks).
Step 4. Secure your machine’s lid with some tape. Loosen the nuts at the back of the machine securing the top panel using a 1/4 inch nut-driver. Lift the top panel and support it using a lanyard, or by leaning it against a wall.
Step 5. Lift one of the four suspension rods. Pull the bearing and socket off the rod, then carefully guide the rod through the opening on the cabinet and unhook it from the spring. Repeat this process with the other three rods.
Step 6. Lower the top panel onto the cabinet and apply the bolts at the back with your nut-driver.
Step 7. Tilt your washing machine backwards carefully and set it on the floor (get someone to assist you if needed).
Step 8. Pull each of the four rods through the mounts at the bottom of the machine and set them aside.
Step 9. Take your new washing machine suspension rod kit out of its packaging. Slide each of the rods through the mount at the bottom of the outer tub.
Step 10. With the help of another person, carefully set the machine back on its feet. Loosen the screws holding the top panel, then lift and support it.
Step 11. Snap the new bearing sockets into the mounts on each corner of the cabinet. Lift one of the suspension rods through the opening on the cabinet, snap the new bearing onto it, and lower the rod. Repeat this process with the other three.
Step 12. Lower the top panel back onto the cabinet and snap it in place. Peel the tape off the lid and use your nut-driver to apply the bolts at the back.
Step 13. Reattach the two water supply hoses to the ports at the back of your machine. Connect the drain hose back to your machine and use the spring clamp to secure it.
Step 14. Reconnect your washer to the electrical outlet and turn the water supply valve back on. Make sure the problem has been fixed by running a spin cycle.
3. Old Bearing (Applicable Only To Top Loaders)
If your Amana washing machine is knocking during spin cycles, the bearings may have gone bad. Pleas keep in mind that this repair is complex. Here’s what you’ll need to do to replace the bearings in your Amana top loader washing machine…
Required Tools…
- Flat-blade Screwdriver
- Philips Screwdriver
- Hammer
- Towel
- Tape
- Adjustable Wrench
- Pliers
- 1/4 Inch Allen Wrench
- 5/16 Inch Nut-driver
- Putty Knife
- 3/8 and 7/16 inch socket with long extension
- New Bearing Kit
- Bearing Installation Tool Kit
Step 1. Before starting this repair, make sure your machine is disconnected from the power outlet and the water valve is turned off in order to prevent water leaks and electrocution.
Step 2. Insert a putty knife underneath the two corners of the top panel (this will release thew two retaining clips). Lift the top panel and support by laying it against a wall, or by using a lanyard (do not rely on the hinges).
Step 3. Use a pair of pliers to release the spring clamp holding the re-circulation hose to the port on the tub cover and slide it out of place. Pull the tube off the tub cover.
Step 4. With a flat-blade screwdriver, pry the tub cover off the tub assembly and set it aside.
Step 5. Pry the plastic cap off the agitator and use your 7/16 inch socket wrench with an extension to remove the agitator bolt. Carefully lift the agitator assembly out of the tub and set it aside.
Step 6. With a Philips screwdriver, take out the screws holding the basket hub (be careful not to lose the screws). Take the basket hub out of the tub and set it aside.
Step 7. Lift the inner tub off the shaft and set it aside. If you have any difficulty with the inner tub, apply some penetrating oil to the shaft to loosen it.
Step 8. Lower your washer’s top panel, tilt the cabinet backwards, and support it against a wall.
Step 9. With a 1/4 inch Allen wrench, loosen the bolt holding the rotor assembly to the bottom of the outer tub. Pull the rotor assembly off the machine and set it aside.
Step 10. Remove the four bolts holding the stator to the bottom of the tub using your 3/8 inch socket wrench. Take the stator and mounting plate off the machine.
Step 11. Unplug the wire harness from the stator and release the wire from the retainer. Set the stator aside.
Step 12. Squeeze the tip of the drive shaft with a pair of pliers. While squeezing the shaft, use your adjustable wrench to loosen the nut holding the drive tube.
Step 13. Using a mallet, knock the drive tube through the opening at the bottom of the tub.
Step 14. Set the machine back onto its feet, then lift and support the top panel. Remove the drive tube from the tub and discard it.
Step 15. With a hammer and the bearing removal rod (included in the bearing installation tool kit), knock out the lower bearing.
Step 16. Lower the top panel onto the cabinet, then tilt the machine backwards. Take out the three lower bearing pieces at the bottom of the machine and discard them.
Step 17. Use the rod and hammer to knock out the upper bearing from underneath the tub. Set your washer upright, then lift the top panel. Remove the upper bearing and discard it.
Step 18. Prepare your new bearing kit for installation by removing the parts from the packaging. Clean the bearing seat from inside the tub using a cloth.
Step 19. Place the upper bearing on the seat inside the tub. Remove your bearing installation tool from its packaging.
Step 20. Loosen the three lower pieces of the bearing installation tool. Slide the arm of the installation tool through the upper bearing.
Step 21. Close the top panel then tilt the appliance backwards. Put the bearing washer, spacer tube, and lower bearing onto the installation tool shaft. Put the three lower pieces of the installation tool back on.
Step 22. Using your adjustable wrench, tighten the installation tool nut shaft as much as possible (this will force the lower bearing into place).
Step 23. Use the wrench to loosen the nut then take the three lower pieces off. Set your washer upright then lift and support the top panel.
Step 24. Remove installation tool from the tub and lay it aside. Slide the new drive tube through the upper bearing. With a hammer and a block of wood, carefully knock the tube into place.
Step 25. Tilt the machine backwards and secure the drive tube by applying the nut with your adjustable wrench.
Step 26. Place the stator and stator plate at the bottom of the tub and secure them using the 3/8 inch bolts. Plug the wire harness into the stator.
Step 27. Place the rotor over the stator assembly and tighten the nut using your 1/4 inch Allen wrench.
Step 28. Set your washer upright and lift the top panel. Using the provided grease, fill the two grooves in the new bearing seal.
Step 29. Apply a bead of the provided sealant around the bearing seal. Slide the new seal into place over the bearing. Place the bearing installation tube on the bearing seal and knock the seal into place with hammer.
Step 30. Take the installation tube off the shaft and set it aside. Apply a layer of the provided sealant over the bearing seal.
Step 31. Use a towel to clean any excess sealant or grease on the drive shaft or tub. We recommend leaving your machine for about a day before running a wash cycle in order to help the sealant cure properly.
Step 32. Lower the inner tub onto the drive tube. Put the basket hub back in place and secure it by applying the screws with your Philips screwdriver.
Step 33. Put the agitator on the shaft and apply the bolt to secure it. Snap the cap onto the agitator assembly.
Step 34. Place the tub cover back on the tub assembly. Reattach the re-circulation hose to the port on the tub cover and secure it using the spring clamp.
Step 35. Lower your machine’s top panel onto the cabinet and snap it in place. Peel the tape off the lid and use your nu-driver to tighten the screws at the back.
Step 36. Connect your washing machine back to the electrical outlet and turn the water valves back on. To make sure the issue has been fixed, test the machine with a spin cycle.
Check out these other articles…
Amana Washing Machine Noise [Issues & Solutions]
Amana Washing Machine Not Spinning [Solution]
How To Clean Amana Washing Machine [Detailed Guide]
Amana Washing Machine Is Skipping Wash Cycle [Quick Fix]
Amana Washing Machine Won’t Stop… [How To Fix]
4. Faulty Shock Absorber (Front Loader Washers)
To replace a damaged shock absorber in your Amana front loader washing machine, take the following steps…
Step 1. In order to prevent electrocution, make sure your washing machine is disconnected from the electrical outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, remove the screws at the back of the machine securing the top panel. Lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 3. Pull the detergent drawer out of the housing and press the tab inside to completely release it.
Step 4. Use a nut-driver to take out the screws next to the detergent drawer housing. Remove the screws at the top of the control panel. Pry the panel off and set it on top of the cabinet.
Step 5. Open your washer’s door. With a flat-blade screwdriver or a pair of needle-nosed pliers, take out the retaining wire around the seal (make sure you don’t puncture the seal).
Step 6. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the screws holding the door lock to the cabinet. Peel the door seal off the door opening.
Step 7. Tilt your washer backwards carefully and place a block of wood under the front panel to support it.
Step 8. Use your screwdriver to take out the nuts at the bottom of the front panel. Set your machine back onto its feet.
Step 9. Loosen the screws at the top of the front panel. Carefully lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 10. Squeeze the upper mount of the shock absorber you want to replace using a pair of pliers. Release the tabs on the upper mount using a flat-blade screwdriver. Rotate the mount and pull it off the tub. Repeat this process with the lower mount.
Step 11. Remove the shock absorber from the cabinet and discard it. Remove your new washing machine shock absorber from its packaging.
Step 12. Snap the lower mount into the opening on the cabinet and rotate it to secure. Attach the upper mount to the tub and rotate it.
Step 13. Mount the front panel on the cabinet and apply the bolts at the top with your nut-driver.
Step 14. Tilt your washer backwards and apply the nuts at the bottom of the front panel.
Step 15. Open your machine’s door. Reach inside the cabinet and put the door lock back in place. Secure the door lock to the washer by applying the screws with your Philips screwdriver.
Step 16. Carefully fit the door gasket back around the edge of the door opening. Use your pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver to fit the metal wire around the seal.
Step 17. Snap the control panel back into the cabinet. Use your nut-driver to apply the screws next to the detergent drawer housing and the screws at the top of the control panel.
Step 18. Slide the soap drawer back into place. Put the top panel back on the cabinet and apply the bolts at the back using your screwdriver.
Step 19. Reconnect your washing machine to the electrical outlet. Try running a spin cycle to ensure that the knocking sound is gone.
Note: Please keep in mind that some of the steps may vary depending on your washing machine’s model.