Samsung Washing Machine Is Not Heating [3 Causes & Solutions]

If your Samsung washing machine is not heating, you’ve come to the right place. In this detailed guide, we’ll be going over the causes of this issue and giving you steps on how to fix them…

Samsung Washing Machine Is Not Heating — How To Fix

If your Samsung washing machine is not heating, the following are issues to look for…

1. Faulty Heating Element

The first thing to check if your Samsung washing machine is not heating is the heating element. Follow the steps below to test this part…

Front Loaders

To test the heating element in your front loader Samsung washing machine, follow the steps below…

Step 1. Ensure that your washing machine’s power cord is disconnected from the outlet before starting this procedure in order to prevent any chances of electrocution.

Step 2. Using a Philips screwdriver, take out the bolts at the back of the machine securing the top panel. Slide the panel backwards about an inch or so, then lift it off the cabinet.

Step 3. Slide the soap tray out of the dispenser. Press the little tab in the tray to release it from the housing.

Step 4. Use your Philips screwdriver to take out the nuts at the top of the control panel. Pry the panel off the mounting bracket

Step 5. Disconnect the wire harnesses attached to the control panel. Set the panel aside.

Step 6. Open the door of your washing machine. Using your Philips screwdriver, take out the bolts holding the door lock to the front panel.

Step 5. Wedge a flat-blade screwdriver underneath the retaining band around the door boot seal. Work the screwdriver around until the wire pops off.

Step 6. Pry open the pump filter access panel at the lower front of your machine. Pull the emergency drain hose out of the retainers.

Step 7. Loosen the bolts holding the pump filter housing to the cabinet. Pull the housing out of the machine and set it aside.

Step 8. Carefully tip your washing machine backwards, then place a support underneath (get someone to assist you if needed).

Step 9. Loosen the screws at the bottom of the machine securing the front panel. Carefully take the support out from underneath the machine. Lower the washer carefully.

Step 10. Take out the bolts at the top of the front panel. Carefully lift the front panel off the machine and set it aside.

Step 11. Disconnect each wire connector attached to the heating element at the lower front of the tub.

Step 12. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the nut holding the grounding wire to the heating element.

Step 13. Loosen the nut holding the heating element to the machine using your socket wrench. Pry the heating element out of the housing using a flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 14. Get a digital multimeter, then turn the dial to the lowest setting for ohms of resistance. Place the meter’s probes on each heating element terminal.

Step 15. For a working heating element, you should get a reading between 0 and 50 ohms. If the reading is much higher than this, the element is damaged and should be replaced.

Step 16. Once you are sure that the heating element is in good condition, slide it back into the housing, then apply the 10mm bolt.

Step 17. Plug each connector into its appropriate terminal on the element. Apply the 10mm bolt to secure the grounding wire to the heating element.

Step 18. Lift the front panel, then carefully mount it on the cabinet. Use your Philips screwdriver to apply the screws at the top of the panel.

Step 19. Tip the machine backwards carefully, then support it. Apply the bolts at the bottom of the front panel.

Step 20. Carefully set your washing machine onto its feet. Push the pump filter housing back into the cabinet, then apply the two screws.

Step 21. Open the door of your washing machine. Reach into the machine behind the front panel, then push the door lock assembly into place. Secure the door lock to the front panel by applying the bolts.

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Step 22. Refit the door gasket around the opening on the front panel. Use a flat-blade screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to fit the retaining band around the door boot seal (take care not to damage the seal).

Step 23. Plug the wire harness back into the control panel. Snap the control panel onto the front of the cabinet, then apply the bolts at the top using your Philips screwdriver.

Step 24. Slide the soap tray into the dispenser. Mount the top panel on the cabinet, then apply the bolts at the back. Plug your appliance back into the outlet.

Dryers

To test the heating element in your Samsung dryer, follow the steps below…

Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, it is advised that you disconnect your appliance from the outlet before starting this procedure.

Step 2. Go to the back of the machine, then take out the bolts holding the top panel using a Philips screwdriver. Pull the panel backwards about an inch or so, then lift it off the machine.

Step 3. Pry the control panel off the mounting bracket (use a flat-blade screwdriver if needed). Disconnect the wire harness from the control panel, then set the panel aside.

Step 4. Open the door of your dryer, then use a Philips screwdriver to take out the bolts at the bottom of the door opening.

Step 5. Take out the screws at the top of the front panel. Lift the panel off the cabinet carefully. Disconnect the door lock wire harness from the front panel, then set the panel aside.

Step 6. Disconnect the moisture sensor wire connector at the bottom of the bulkhead. Using your Philips screwdriver, loosen the bolts holding the heating element housing and mounting bracket.

Step 7. Slide the element and mounting bracket out of the cabinet. Disconnect the wires attached to the heating element (ensure that you note where each connector goes).

Step 8. Get a digital multimeter, then turn the dial to the lowest setting for ohms of resistance.

Step 9. Place the probes of the meter on each terminal on the heating element. For a working element, you should get a reading between 0 and 50 ohms. If the reading is much higher than this, you’ll need to replace the element.

Step 10. Once you are sure that the heating element is in good condition, reconnect the wire harnesses to the appropriate terminals.

Step 11. Push the heating element and mounting bracket into the cabinet. Secure them by applying the bolts with your Philips screwdriver.

Step 12. Plug the moisture sensor wire harness back in. Carefully lift the front panel and reconnect the door lock wire harness.

Step 13. Mount the front panel on the cabinet, then apply the screws at the top using a Philips screwdriver. Open the door of the machine, then apply the two bolts near the opening.

Step 14. Plug the wire harness back into the control panel. Snap the panel onto the front of the cabinet.

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2. Faulty Thermistor

To test the thermistor in your Samsung washing machine, follow the steps below…

Front Loaders

Take the following steps to test the thermistor in your front loader Samsung washing machine…

Step 1. In order to avoid any chances of electrocution, it is advised that you disconnect your washer’s power cord from the outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. Go to the back of the machine, then loosen the bolts holding the rear access panel using a Philips screwdriver. Pry the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.

Step 3. Disconnect the wire harness attached to the thermistor at the back of the tub. Use your Philips screwdriver to take out the bolts holding the thermistor.

Step 4. Set the thermistor aside for a few minutes (this will help it adjust to room temperature).

Step 5. Get a digital multimeter, then turn the dial to the Ohms setting. Push each meter probe into the thermistor connector.

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Step 6. For a working thermistor, you should get a reading between 36k and 68k ohms. If the reading is much lower or higher than this, you’ll need to replace the themistor.

Step 7. Once you are sure that the thermistor is in good condition, remount it on the tub, then apply the screws using your Philips screwdriver. Plug the thermistor connector back in.

Step 8. Snap the rear access panel onto the cabinet, then tighten the bolts using your Philips screwdriver. Plug the power cord into the outlet.

Top Loaders

Follow the steps below to test the thermistor in your top loader Samsung washing machine…

Step 1. Turn your washer’s water supply off and disconnect the power cord from the outlet in order to prevent any chances of leakage or electrocution.

Step 2. Pull your washing machine’s drain hose out of the standpipe. Using pliers if needed, disconnect the water inlet hoses from the ports at the back of the machine (some water may spill out).

Step 3. Tip your washing machine backwards carefully and support it (if needed, get someone to assist you).

Step 4. Disconnect the thermistor wire harness. Loosen the bolts holding the thermistor to the bottom of the tub using a Philips screwdriver.

Step 5. Set the thermistor aside for about 5 minutes (this will help the thermistor adjust to the room temperature).

Step 6. Get a digital multimeter, then turn the dial to the Ohms setting. Push the probes of the meter into the thermistor’s connector.

Step 7. For a working meter, you should get a reading between 36k and 68k ohms. If the reading is much lower or higher than this, you’ll need to replace the thermistor.

Step 8. Once you’re sure that the thermistor is in good condition, remount it at the bottom of the tub, then tighten the screws using your Philips screwdriver. Plug the thermistor connector back in.

Step 9. Carefully lift your washing machine back onto its feet. Reinsert the drain hose into the standpipe.

Step 10. Reconnect the COLD and hot water supply hoses to the ports at the back of the cabinet (ensure that the hoses are properly attached in order to prevent leaks).

Dryers

To test the thermistor in your Samsung dryer, follow the steps below…

Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, ensure that you disconnect your machine from the outlet.

Step 2. Go to the back of the machine, then loosen the nuts holding the top panel to the cabinet using a Philips screwdriver. Slide the panel backwards about an inch or so, then lift it off the cabinet.

Step 3. Pry the control panel off the front of the cabinet (use a flat-blade screwdriver if needed). Disconnect the wire harness attached to the control panel, then set the panel aside.

Step 4. Open the door of the dryer, then take out the screws at the bottom of the door opening.

Step 5. Take out the screws at the top of the front panel using a Philips screwdriver. Carefully lift the front panel off the cabinet, then disconnect the door lock wire harness. Set the panel aside.

Step 6. Using your screwdriver, take out the nuts holding the control panel mounting bracket to the front of the cabinet. Lift the bracket off the cabinet, then release the wires from the retainers.

Step 7. Disconnect the wires from the light assembly on the front bulkhead. Release the wires from the retainers on the bulkhead.

Step 8. Detach the moisture sensor wire connector at the bottom of the bulkhead. Loosen the bolts holding the bulkhead to the cabinet using your Philips screwdriver. Lift the bulkhead off the machine and set it aside.

Step 9. Reach underneath the drum carefully, then push the idler pulley inwards to release the tension on the drive belt. Unhook the belt from the motor pulley and idler pulley.

Step 10. Carefully lift the belt and drum out of the cabinet, then set them aside. Disconnect the wire harness attached to the thermistor on the dryer’s cabinet.

Step 11. Loosen the nuts holding the thermistor to the cabinet. Take the thermistor out of the machine, then set it aside for a few minutes (this will help the thermistor adjust to room temperature).

Step 12. Get a digital multimeter, then turn the dial to the Ohms setting. Push the probes of the meter into the thermistor’s connector. For a working thermistor, you should get a reading between 36k and 68k ohms.

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Step 13. If the reading is much lower or higher than this, the thermistor is damaged and needs to be replaced.

Step 14. Once you are sure that the thermistor is in good condition, reinstall it in the cabinet, then tighten the bolts with your Philips screwdriver.

Step 15. Plug the connector into the thermistor. Lift the drum and drive belt carefully, then guide them into the cabinet.

Step 16. Reach underneath the drum, then loop the drive belt around the idler pulley and motor pulley in a zig-zag formation.

Step 17. Carefully lift the front bulkhead and mount it on the cabinet. Secure the bulkhead by applying the Philips screws.

Step 18. Plug the moisture sensor wire harness back in. Reconnect the wire harness to the light assembly, then secure the wires in the retainers.

Step 19. Mount the control panel support bracket on the cabinet, then tighten the screws using your Philips screwdriver.

Step 20. Lift the front panel, then reconnect the door lock wire harness. Snap the panel onto the cabinet, then apply the bolts at the top using your Philips screwdriver.

Step 21. Open the door of your machine, then apply the nuts at the bottom of the opening.

Step 22. Plug the wire harness into the control panel. Snap the control panel onto the cabinet. Place the top panel on the machine, then apply the Philips screws at the back. Reconnect your machine to the outlet.

3. Damaged Thermal Limit Fuse (Dryers)

If your Samsung dryer isn’t heating, it could be as a result of a faulty thermal limit fuse. Follow the steps below to test this part…

Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, ensure that your washing machine’s power cord is disconnected from the outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. From the back of the machine, loosen the bolts securing the top panel using a Philips screwdriver. Slide the top panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the cabinet.

Step 3. Using a flat-blade screwdriver if needed, pry the control panel off the front of the cabinet. Disconnect the wire harness attached to the panel, then set the panel aside.

Step 4. Open your dryer’s door, then take out the two screws at the bottom of the opening. Use your Philips screwdriver to loosen the bolts at the top of the front panel.

Step 5. Lift the front panel off the cabinet, then detach the wire harness attached to the door lock assembly. Set the front panel aside.

Step 6. Detach the moisture sensor wire harness at the bottom of the front bulkhead. With your Philips screwdriver, take out the bolts holding the heating element mounting bracket and housing to the cabinet.

Step 7. Pull the heating element and bracket out of the machine. Detach the two wires attached to the thermal limit fuse. Use your screwdriver to loosen the bolts holding the fuse to the heater housing.

Step 8. Get a digital multimeter, then turn the dial to the lowest setting for ohms of resistance. Place the probes of the meter on the fuse’s terminals.

Step 9. For a working fuse, you should hear an audible beep from the meter. The display of the meter should also read 0 ohms of resistance.

Step 10. If you didn’t hear a beep from the meter, it indicates that the fuse is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Step 11. Mount the thermal limit fuse on the heater housing, then tighten the screws using your Philips screwdriver. Plug each connector into its appropriate terminal on the fuse.

Step 12. Reinstall the heater housing and mounting bracket in the cabinet, then use your screwdriver to apply the bolts.

Step 13. Plug the moisture sensor wire connector back in. Lift the front panel, then reconnect the wire harness to the door lock assembly.

Step 14. Snap the front panel on the cabinet, then tighten the screws at the top. Open the door of the dryer, then tighten the two nuts at the bottom.

Step 15. Reconnect the wire harness to the control panel. Snap the panel onto the front of the cabinet.

Step 16. Place the top panel on the cabinet, then push it forwards. Secure the panel by applying the Philips screws at the back. Reconnect your appliance to the power outlet.