If your Whirlpool washing machine is not working, you’ve come to the right place; this detailed guide gives you easy-to-follow steps on how to handle the situation…
Table of Contents
Whirlpool Washing Machine Dryer Not Working — Solved
If your Whirlpool washing machine is not working, here are the problems you should search for…
1. Broken Drive Belt
The drive belt is looped around the drum an d helps the machine spin properly. If the belt is worn or broken, it will need to be replaced. The steps below show you how to do this…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrical damage, ensure that you disconnect the dryer from the electrical outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the three screws at the back of the machine holding the top panel.
Step 3. Slide the top panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the machine. Use your nut-driver to take out the three screws holding the control board panel to the side of the cabinet. Lift the control board bracket out of place.
Step 4. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry the ribbon cables off the control board. Loosen the two bolts at the top of the control panel.
Step 5. Open the door of the machine. Pull the control panel forwards, then lift it off the machine. Pull the lint screen out of the front panel.
Step 6. Close the door of the machine. Using your 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the two screws at the bottom of the lower front access panel. Take the panel off the machine and set them aside.
Step 7. With your nut-driver, loosen the screw brackets holding the air duct housing cover to the bottom of the machine. Take the cover off the machine and set it aside.
Step 8. Disconnect the moisture sensor wire connector under the main front panel (if needed, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to do this).
Step 9. Go back to the main control board, then unplug the door lock wire connector using a flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 10. With a 1/4 inch socket wrench, loosen the two screws at the bottom and top of the front panel. Lift the front panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 11. Reach under the drum and push the idler pulley to release the tension on the drive belt.
Step 12. If still intact, unhook the drive belt from the motor pulley. Lift the drum upwards a bit, then slide the drive belt out of place.
Step 13. Discard the old drive belt, then take the new one out of its packaging. Lift the drum upwards a bit, then loop the new belt around it.
Step 14. Push the idler pulley inwards. Loop the new drive belt around the motor pulley and idler pulley in a zig-zag pattern.
Step 15. To help align the belt, rotate the drum slowly by hand. Lift the front panel and snap it back onto the front of the machine.
Step 16. Secure the front panel by applying the 1/4 inch bolts at the top and bottom. Reconnect the door switch wire connector to the control board.
Step 17. Reconnect the moisture sensor wire connector at the bottom of the front panel.
Step 18. Remount the air duct on the machine, then tighten the screw brackets using a 1/4 inch socket wrench.
Step 19. Snap the lower access panel onto the machine, then tighten the screws at the bottom to secure it.
Step 20. Snap the control panel back onto the front of the cabinet. Secure the panel by tightening the two screws at the top.
Step 21. Reconnect the ribbon connectors to the control board. Mount the control board bracket assembly onto the cabinet, then tighten the screws to secure it.
Step 22. Place the top panel on the cabinet, then use your 1/4 inch nut-driver to apply the screws at the back.
Step 23. Plug the dryer back into the electrical outlet, then ensure that everything works properly by running a cycle.
2. Failed Drive Motor
The second thing that could prevent your Whirlpool washing machine dryer from working is a failed drive motor. The motor is the main component which makes the drum spin. If it fails or gets burnt, the machine will not work. To learn how to fix this issue, read this article: Whirlpool Washing Machine Motor.
3. Worn Motor Pulley
This pulley is attached to the end of the motor assembly. If this pulley gets damaged, the belt will not spin the drum even if the motor is working properly. Read this article for detailed steps on how to replace this part: Whirlpool Washing Machine Motor.
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4. Damaged Drum Rollers
The rollers help support the drum and keep it steady. If the any one of the rollers goes bad, it could prevent your machine from spinning. The steps below show you how to replace this part…
Front Rollers
Follow the steps below to learn how to replace the front drum rollers in your Whirlpool washing machine dryer…
Step 1. Prevent any chances of electrical damage by disconnecting the machine from the power outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Remove the three screws at the back of the machine securing the top panel using a 1/4 inch socket wrench. Pull the top panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the machine.
Step 3. Loosen the nuts holding the control panel to the front of the cabinet. Unplug the control panel’s wire connector from the board.
Step 4. Pry the control panel off the front of the machine, then set it aside. Use your screwdriver to take out the nuts holding the control board bracket to the front frame.
Step 5. Move the control board bracket out of place. Use your nut-driver to take out the screws at the bottom of the lower access panel. Take the panel off the dryer, then set it aside.
Step 6. Open the door of the machine and take the lint screen out of its housing. Use your nut-driver to loosen the screws holding the air duct to the bottom of the machine.
Step 7. Unplug the moisture sensor wire connector at the bottom of the front panel. Disconnect the door switch wire harness from the main control board.
Step 8. Take out the screws at the top and bottom of the front panel. Lift the panel off the machine. And set it on the floor.
Step 9. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry of the tri-ring of the drum roller you want to replace. Take the roller off the shaft then discard it.
Step 10. Take your new drum roller out of its packaging and slide it onto the shaft. Secure the new roller by snapping the tri-ring on.
Step 11. Lift the front panel and mount it on the front of the machine. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, apply the screws at the bottom and top of the panel.
Step 12. Open the door of the machine and slide the lint screen back in. Put the air duct assembly back on, then secure it by tightening the screws.
Step 13. Plug the moisture sensor wire connector back in, then reconnect the door switch wire harness to the control board.
Step 14. Mount the lower front access panel on the cabinet, then tighten the screws to secure it.
Step 15. Place the front frame on the machine, then secure it by applying the bolts. Move the control board bracket back into place, then secure it with the screws.
Step 16. Snap the control panel onto the front of the cabinet, then plug the wire connector into the control board.
Step 17. Slide the top cover onto the cabinet, then use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to tighten the screws at the back.
Step 18. Reconnect the appliance to the electrical outlet, then try running a cycle to see if the has been fixed.
Rear Rollers
Follow the steps below to replace the rear rollers in your Whirlpool dryer…
Step 1. In order to prevent electrocution, make sure to unplug the machine from the outlet before starting this procedure.
Step 2. Open the door of the machine and take the lint screen out of the housing. Use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to loosen the nuts at the bottom of the lower front access panel.
Step 3. Pry the lower access panel off the machine and set it aside. Remove the three screws at the back of the appliance securing the top cover. Slide the top backwards, then take it off the washer.
Step 4. Unplug the control panel’s wire connector from the main control board at the side of the cabinet.
Step 5. Using the nut-driver, loosen the screws holding the control panel to the front of the cabinet. Pry the panel off the machine, then set it aside.
Step 6. Take out the screws holding the control board bracket to the front brace. Move the control board bracket out of place and support it.
Step 7. Loosen the nuts holding the front frame brace to the cabinet. Pry the brace off the machine and set it aside.
Step 8. Use your screwdriver to loosen the nuts at the bottom and top of the main front panel. Take out the screws holding the air duct to the bottom of the panel, then take it off. Pull the front panel upwards, then lift it off the machine.
Step 9. Disconnect the door switch wire connector from the control board and unplug the moisture sensor wire harness. Set the front panel aside.
Step 10. Carefully reach underneath the drum, then unhook the drive belt from the motor pulley and idler pulley. Lift the belt and drum assembly out of the cabinet.
Step 11. With a flat-blade screwdriver, pry off the tri-ring of one of the rollers. Slide the defective roller off the shaft and discard it.
Step 12. Slide the new drum roller onto the shaft at the back of the cabinet, then secure it by snapping the tri-ring back on.
Step 13. Lift the drum and belt, then guide it into the cabinet. Reach under the drum and loop the belt around the two pulleys in a zig-zag pattern.
Step 14. Lift the front panel and mount it on the cabinet. Use a nut-driver to apply the screws at the bottom and top of the panel.
Step 15. Plug the moisture sensor wire connector back in. Remount the air duct on the cabinet, then apply the screws.
Step 16. Snap the lower front access panel onto the machine, then apply the bolts at the bottom to secure it.
Step 17. Open the door of the machine and slide the lint screen back in. Plug the door switch wire connector into the main control board.
Step 18. Mount the front frame brace on the cabinet, then apply the screws to secure it.
Step 19. Mount the control board bracket on the front frame. Using your nut-driver, apply the screws to secure it.
Step 20. Snap the control panel onto the front of the machine, then tighten the screws at the top. Plug the control panel’s wire harness into the main control board.
Step 21. Remount the top cover on the cabinet, then use your 1/4 inch nut-driver to apply the screws at the back. Plug the appliance into its electrical outlet, then run a cycle to test it.
5. Damaged Drum Roller Axle
The steps below show you how to replace a damaged drum roller axle in your Whirlpool dryer…
Front Axle
Here are the steps you’ll need to take to replace the front axle in your Whirlpool dryer…
Step 1. Ensure that you unplug your washing machine from the electrical outlet before starting this repair, in order to prevent any chances of electrocution.
Step 2. Go to the back of the appliance, then use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to take out the screws holding the top panel to the cabinet. Slide the top panel backwards a few inches and lift it off the machine.
Step 3. Unplug the control panel’s wire connector from the main control board. With your nut-driver, loosen the screws at the top of the control panel.
Step 4. Pry the control panel assembly off the front of the machine, then set it aside. Disconnect the door switch wire harness from the main control board.
Step 5. With the help of another person, tip the machine backwards carefully, then place a support under the front.
Step 4. Using your 1/4 inch socket wrench, take out the screws at the bottom of the front panel. Carefully take the support out from under the appliance, then set the machine back on its feet.
Step 5. Open your machine’s door, then use a Philips screwdriver to take out the nuts securing the front panel to the bulkhead.
Step 6. With your 1/4 inch socket wrench, loosen the screws at the top of the main front panel. Lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 7. Disconnect the moisture sensor wire connector at the bottom of the front bulkhead. Use your nut-driver to take out the screw holding the control board bracket to the front frame.
Step 8. Move the control board bracket out of place and support it. Using your nut-driver, loosen the screws holding the front frame to the cabinet. Pry the frame off the machine and set it aside.
Step 9. Use your nut-driver to loosen the screw holding the support bracket to the bottom of the air duct.
Step 10. Loosen the screws holding the front bulkhead to the cabinet. Lift the bulkhead upwards, then lift it off the cabinet.
Step 11. Set the bulkhead face-down on the floor. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, carefully pry off the tri-ring on one of the rollers. Slide the roller off the shaft.
Step 12. Use your flat-blade screwdriver to pry out the inner tri-ring on the axle. Secure the axle tip using a pair of pliers.
Step 13. Loosen the bolt at the other side of the bulkhead using a 9/16 inch socket wrench. Pull the axle out of the opening, then discard it.
Step 14. Take your new roller axle out of its packaging. Place the washer nut on the new axle, then slide the axle through the opening on the bulkhead.
Step 15. Use pliers to squeeze the axle, then apply the bolt at the other end using your 9/16 inch socket wrench.
Step 16. Place the inner tri-ring on the new axle. Slide the roller onto the shaft, then secure it by snapping the outer tri-ring on.
Step 17. Lift the front bulkhead and remount it on the cabinet. With your nut-driver, apply the screws at the top and bottom of the bulkhead.
Step 18. Plug the moisture sensor wire connector back in. Remount the support bracket at the bottom of the air duct, then apply the nut to secure it.
Step 19. Lift the front frame brace and snap it on the cabinet. Using your 1/4 inch socket wrench, apply the nuts to secure it.
Step 20. Reattach the control board bracket to the front brace, then tighten the screws to secure it.
Step 21. Remount the front panel on the cabinet, then tighten the screws at the top using your 1/4 inch socket wrench.
Step 22. Get someone to help you tip the machine backwards, then place a support underneath the front. Apply the four screws at the bottom of the panel.
Step 23. Take the support out from underneath the appliance, then set the dryer back on its feet.
Step 24. Reconnect the door switch wire connector to the main control board. Snap the panel onto the front of the cabinet, then use your nut-driver to apply the screws at the top.
Step 25. Open the door of the machine, then apply the screws to secure the front panel to the bulkhead.
Step 26. Place the top panel on the machine, then use your nut-driver to apply the screws at the back.
Step 27. Plug your washing machine back into the electrical outlet, then try running a cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
Rear Axle
The steps below show you how to learn how to replace a rear roller axle in your Whirlpool washing machine dryer…
Step 1. Ensure that your washing machine is disconnected from the electrical outlet in order to prevent electrocution.
Step 2. With a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the screws at the back of the machine holding the top panel. Slide the top cover backwards a few inches, then lift it off the machine.
Step 3. Use the 1/4 inch socket wrench to loosen the screws at the top of the control panel. Disconnect the control panel’s wire connector from the control board.
Step 4. Pry the panel off the front of the cabinet, then set it aside. Unplug the door switch wire connector from the main control board.
Step 5. With the help of another person, carefully tip the washing machine backwards, then place a support underneath the front.
Step 6. Loosen the four screws at the bottom of the dryer’s front panel. Carefully lower the machine to the floor.
Step 7. Open the machine’s door, then use a Philips screwdriver to take out the screws holding the front panel to the front bulkhead.
Step 8. Loosen the three screws at the top of the front panel. Pull the front panel assembly upwards, then lift it off the cabinet.
Step 9. Take out the screws holding the control board bracket to the front frame using a 1/4 inch nut-driver. Move the control board bracket out of place, then support it.
Step 10. With your socket wrench, take out the screws holding the front frame to the cabinet. Pull the frame off the machine and set it aside.
Step 11. With the 1/4 inch socket, take out the screw holding the lower support bracket beneath the air duct.
Step 12. Unplug the moisture sensor wire harness. Using the nut-driver take out the bolts at the bottom and top of the front bulkhead. Carefully lift the bulkhead off the machine and set it aside.
Step 13. Reach underneath the drum assembly, the carefully unhook the drive belt from the motor pulley and idler pulley.
Step 14. Lift the belt and drum assembly out of the cabinet. Go to the back of the machine and detach the venting from the cabinet.
Step 15. Use a 5/16 inch nut-driver to loosen the screws holding the terminal block’s cover plate. Take the cover off the machine and set it aside.
Step 16. Release the power cord wires from the terminals by loosening the screws with a Philips screwdriver. Pull each wire off the terminal.
Step 17. Use the 5/16 inch socket to loosen the bolt holding the grounding wire to the rear panel. Loosen the terminal block mounting screws, then pull the block out of place.
Step 18. With your nut-driver, take out the screws holding the control board support bracket to the rear panel. Move the support bracket out of place.
Step 19. Take out the bolts holding the rear panel to the cabinet. Carefully lift the rear panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 20. With your flat-blade screwdriver, pry out the tri-ring off the roller shaft you want to replace. Slide the roller off the shaft.
Step 21. Pry the second tri-ring off the roller axle. Squeeze the tip of the roller axle with a pair of pliers. Loosen the axle bolt at the back of the bulkhead using a 9/16 inch socket.
Step 22. Pull the axle out of the bulkhead, then discard it. Prepare your new roller axle for installation by taking it out of its packaging.
Step 23. Slide the washer nut onto the new roller axle. Push the new roller into the opening on the bulkhead, then tighten the nut using the 9/16 inch nut-driver.
Step 24. Put the tri-ring on the shaft. Slide the roller onto the new axle, then secure it with the second tri-ring.
Step 25. Lift the rear access panel and mount it onto the cabinet. Secure the rear panel by tightening the screws.
Step 26. Reposition the control board bracket on the rear panel, then tighten the screws to secure it.
Step 27. Mount the terminal block on the rear panel bracket, then use a Philips screwdriver to apply the screws.
Step 28. Attach the power cord wires to the appropriate terminals on the block, then tighten the bolts with your nut-driver.
Step 29. Secure the grounding wire to the rear panel by applying the screws. Remount the terminal block cover on the rear pane, then use your nut-driver to apply the bolts.
Step 30. Reattach the venting to the port at the back of the machine. Carefully guide the drum and belt back into the cabinet.
Step 31. Reach under the drum and loop the belt around the idler pulley and motor pulley. Rotate the drum by hand slowly to help align the belt.
Step 32. Lift the front bulkhead and snap it on the cabinet, then tighten the screws at the bottom and top using your 1/4 inch nut-driver.
Step 33. Reconnect the moisture sensor wire harness. Place the lower support bracket back under the air duct, then apply the screw.
Step 34. Attach the front frame brace to the cabinet, then tighten the screws to secure it.
Step 35. Mount the control board support bracket on the front frame, then apply the bolts.
Step 36. Lift the main front panel and mount it on the cabinet. Plug the door switch wire connector to the main control board.
Step 37. Apply the screws at the top of the front panel using a 1/4 inch socket wrench. Carefully tip the washing machine backwards, then apply the screws at the bottom to secure it.
Step 38. Take the support out from underneath the machine, then set the appliance on its feet.
Step 39. Open the door of the washer, then tighten the screws on the front panel. Snap the control panel on the cabinet, then apply the bolts at the top.
Step 40. Plug the control panel wire connector to the control board. Slide the top panel onto the machine, then tighten the three screws at the back to secure it.
Step 41. Reconnect your washing machine to the electrical outlet, then ensure that the issue has been fixed by running a spin cycle.
6. Damaged Thermal Fuse
Follow the steps below to learn how to replace the thermal fuse in your Whirlpool dryer…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrical damage, make sure to unplug your washing machine’s power cord from the outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a nut-driver, take out the bolts at the back of the machine holding the top panel to the cabinet. Pull the top panel backwards a bit, then lift it off the machine.
Step 3. Take out the screws at the top of the control panel using a 1/4 inch socket wrench. Unplug the control panel’s wire harness from the main control board.
Step 4. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry the control panel off the front of the cabinet, then set it aside.
Step 5. Disconnect the door switch wire harness from the main control board (use a flat-blade screwdriver if needed).
Step 6. With someone helping you, tilt the machine backwards a bit, then place a support under the front panel.
Step 7. Loosen the four screws at the bottom of the front panel using a 1/4 inch nut-driver. Carefully pull the support out from underneath the machine, then set the washer upright.
Step 8. Open the dryer’s door, then loosen the two screws holding the front panel to the bulkhead using a Philips screwdriver.
Step 9. Loosen the screws at the top of the front panel with your 1/4 inch nut-driver. Lift the panel upwards, then detach it from the machine.
Step 10. Disconnect the moisture sensor wire harness at the bottom of the front bulkhead.
Step 11. Take out the nuts holding the control board bracket to the front frame. Move the bracket out of place, then support it.
Step 12. Using the 1/4 inch socket wrench, loosen the screws holding the front frame to the machine. Pull the frame off and set it aside.
Step 13. Take out the nut securing the lower support bracket under the air duct. Remove the bolts holding the front bulkhead to the cabinet. Lift the bulkhead upwards, then pull it off the cabinet.
Step 14. Carefully reach underneath the drum assembly, then unhook the drive belt from the motor pulley and idler pulley.
Step 15. Lift the belt and drum assembly out of the cabinet, then set aside. Unplug the wire connectors from the thermal fuse at the bottom of the cabinet.
Step 16. Using your 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the screws holding the thermal fuse to the cabinet. Discard the old fuse, then prepare the new one for installation.
Step 17. Mount the new thermal fuse on the heating element housing, the tighten the nuts using your 1/4 inch socket wrench.
Step 18. Plug the wire connectors into the appropriate terminals on the new thermal fuse.
Step 19. Lift the drive belt and drum, then carefully guide them into the cabinet. From underneath the drum, loop the drive belt around the motor pulley and idler pulley in a zig-zag pattern.
Step 20. Ensure that the belt is properly aligned by rotating the drum by hand slowly. Lift the front bulkhead, then snap it onto the front of the cabinet and drum. Secure then bulkhead by applying the screws at the top and bottom.
Step 21. Place the lower support bracket back on the machine, then tighten the nuts using your 1/4 inch nut-driver.
Step 22. Reattach the moisture sensor wire connector. Place the front frame brace on the cabinet, then tighten the screws to secure it.
Step 23. Reconnect the control board bracket to the front frame, then secure it by applying the nuts.
Step 24. Lift the main front panel and mount it on the bulkhead. Reconnect the door switch wire connector to the main control board. Use your nut-driver to tighten the screws at the top of the front panel.
Step 25. Open the machine’s door, then use your Philips screwdriver to apply the nuts on the front panel.
Step 26. Carefully tip the machine backwards and support it. Use your nut-driver to apply the four bolts at the bottom of the panel.
Step 27. Remount the control panel on the cabinet, then secure the bolts at the top. Reconnect the wire harness to the control board terminal.
Step 28. Push the top cover back onto the machine, then tighten the screws at the back using a nut-driver.
Step 29. Plug your washing machine back into its electrical outlet, then ensure that the everything works properly by running a cycle.
7. Failed Heating Element
Another thing that could prevent your Whirlpool dryer from working properly is a failed heating element. If this part goes bad, your clothes will not dry. The steps below show you how to replace this part…
Step 1. Disconnect the appliance from the electrical outlet before starting this repair in order top prevent electrical damage.
Step 2. Go to the back of the machine and use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to loosen the bolts holding the top cover to the cabinet.
Step 3. Slide the top panel back a few inches, then lift it off the appliance. Disconnect the control panel’s wire harness from the terminal on the control board.
Step 4. Take out the top screws of the control panel assembly. Using a flat-blade screwdriver if needed, pry the panel off the front of the cabinet, then set it aside.
Step 5. Disconnect the door switch wire connector from the control board. Get someone to help you tip the machine backwards and place a support under the front.
Step 6. Loosen the four bolts at the bottom of the front panel using a 1/4 inch nut-driver. Take the support out from underneath the machine, then set the appliance on its feet.
Step 7. Open the machine’s door, then take out the bolts on the front panel. Using your 1/4 inch socket wrench, loosen the screws at the top of the front panel.
Step 8. Pull the front panel off the machine, then set it aside. Remove the nut holding the control board bracket to the front frame brace. Move the boar bracket out of place, then support it.
Step 9. With your nut-driver, remove the screws holding the front frame brace to the cabinet. Pull the frame off the machine and set it aside.
Step 10. Disconnect the moisture sensor’s wire connector beneath the front bulkhead. Using a 1/4 inch socket wrench, take out the screws holding the lower retaining bracket under the air duct.
Step 11. Use your nut-driver to remove the screws at the bottom and top of the front bulkhead. Pull the bulkhead off the machine and set it aside.
Step 12. Reach under the drum, then push the idler pulley to release the tension on the drive belt. Take the belt off the motor pulley and idler pulley.
Step 13. Lift the drive belt and drum out of the cabinet, then set them aside. Using your nut-driver, take out the screws holding the thermal fuse and high-limit thermostat to the heating element housing. Pull both components off the housing.
Step 14. Unplug the heating element wire connectors (make sure to take note of where each connector goes).
Step 15. With your nut-driver, take out the bolts holding the housing cover. Take the cover off the machine and set it aside.
Step 16. Pull the heating element out of the machine, then set it aside. Discard the heating element, then take the new one out of its packaging.
Step 17. Mount the new heating element on the cabinet. Put the heater cover back on, then tighten the screws using your 1/4 inch nut-driver.
Step 18. Plug the wire connectors into the appropriate terminals on the new heating element.
Step 19. Mount the high-limit thermostat and thermal fuse on the heater housing, then secure with the screws.
Step 20. Lift the belt and drum assembly, then position them in the cabinet. Reach under the drum, then hook the drive belt onto the motor pulley and idler pulley in a zig-zag formation.
Step 21. Lift the front bulkhead and mount it onto the cabinet. Using a 1/4 inch socket wrench, tighten the screws at the bottom and top of the bulkhead.
Step 22. Place the lower support bracket back on then machine, then apply the screw using your nut-driver.
Step 23. Plug the moisture sensor’s wire connector back in. Remount the front frame brace on the cabinet, then secure it using the screws.
Step 24. Reattach the control panel bracket to the front frame, then use your nut-driver to apply the screws.
Step 25. Pass the door switch wire connector through the gap between the front bulkhead and the front frame, then reconnect it to the main control board.
Step 26. Lift the front panel, then remount it on the cabinet. With your nut-driver, apply the screws at the top.
Step 27. Open the door of then appliance, then tighten the screws on the front panel with a Philips screwdriver.
Step 28. Tip the machine backwards, then use the 1/4 inch nut-driver to apply the four screws at the bottom.
Step 29. Carefully set the appliance back on its feet. Remount the front panel on the cabinet, then tighten the screws at the top.
Step 30. Plug the control panel’s wire harness back into the control board. Slide the top panel onto the cabinet, then tighten the three screws at the back to secure it.
Step 31. Reconnect the washer’s power cord to the electrical outlet, then ensure that the issue has been fixed by running a cycle.
8. Faulty High-Limit Thermostat
If your Whirlpool dryer isn’t working, the final thing you might need to replace is the high-limit thermostat. The steps below show you how to do this…
Step 1. In order to prevent electrical damage, make sure to disconnect the dryer from the outlet before starting this procedure.
Step 2. Loosen the two screws at the back of the appliance securing the top panel using a 1/4 inch socket wrench.
Step 3. Unplug the control panel’s wire harness from the control board. Take out the screws at the top of the panel. Pry the control panel off the machine, then set it aside.
Step 4. Disconnect the door switch wire connector from the control board. With someone helping you, tilt the machine backwards and support it.
Step 5. Take out the four screws at the bottom of the front panel using a 1/4 inch socket wrench. Carefully set the appliance back on its feet.
Step 6. Open the door of your appliance, then take out the bolts on the front panel using a Philips screwdriver.
Step 7. Loosen the bolts at the top of the front panel. Lift the front panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 8. Using your nut-driver, take out the screws holding the control board bracket to the front brace. Move the bracket out of place and support it.
Step 9. Take out the nuts holding the front brace to the cabinet, then set it aside. Using the 1/4 inch socket, remove the screw holding the lower support bracket to the front of the machine.
Step 10. With the socket wrench, remove the bolts at the bottom and top of the bulkhead. Unplug the moisture sensor wire connector, then lift the bulkhead off the machine.
Step 11. Reach under the drum assembly, then push the idler pulley to release the tension on the drive belt. Unhook the belt from the two pulleys.
Step 12. Lift the drum and belt out of the cabinet, then set it aside. Disconnect the wires attached to the high-limit thermostat on the heater cover (make sure to note where the connectors go).
Step 13. Using your 1/4 inch socket, take out the screws holding the thermostat to the heater cover. Take the thermostat off, then discard it.
Step 14. Take your new high-limit thermostat out of its packaging. Mount the new thermostat on the heater cover, then apply the screws to secure it.
Step 15. Plug the wire connectors to the appropriate terminals on the new thermostat.
Step 16. Lift the drum and belt, then guide them back into the cabinet. Reach under the drum and push the idler pulley. Loop the drive belt around the idler pulley and motor pulley.
Step 17. Lift the front bulkhead and mount it on the cabinet, then tighten the bolts at the top and bottom to secure it.
Step 18. Reconnect the moisture sensor wire plug. Reapply the bolt to secure the lower support bracket.
Step 19. Place the front frame brace onto the cabinet, then tighten the screws using your 1/4 inch socket wrench.
Step 20. Reposition the control board bracket on the front frame, then secure it by tightening the screws.
Step 21. Mount the front panel on the cabinet, then plug the door switch wire connector back into the control board. Apply the three screws at the top of the panel.
Step 22. Open the door of the machine, then use your Philips screwdriver to apply the screws on the front panel.
Step 23. Carefully tip the machine backwards, then tighten the four screws at the bottom. Set the appliance back on its feet.
Step 24. Snap the control panel onto the front of the appliance, then reconnect the wire harness to the control board. Using your nut-driver, apply the screws at the top of the panel.
Step 25. Place the top panel on the machine, then tighten the three screws at the back to secure it. Reconnect the washer to the outlet, then try running a cycle to see if the issue has been resolved.
Whirlpool Washing Machine Is Not Working — Solved
If your Whirlpool washing machine is not working, here are the issues you should look for…
1. Power Outlet Is Off
If your Whirlpool washing machine is not working, the first thing you should do is check to ensure that the electrical outlet is turned on. If the machine still doesn’t work even when the outlet is on, check the circuit breaker to ensure it hasn’t tripped.
2. Faulty Power Cord
Another thing that can prevent your Whirlpool washing machine from working is a damaged power cord. Follow the steps below to learn how to test the power cord in your washing machine…
Front Loaders
To test the power cord in your Whirlpool front loader washing machine, follow the steps below…
Step 1. Disconnect the washer’s power cord from the electrical outlet before starting this repair, in order to prevent electrocution.
Step 2. Remove the three bolts at the back of the machine holding the top panel using a 1/4 inch socket wrench.
Step 3. Pull the top panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the cabinet. Unplug the power cord wire connector from the terminal at the rear of the cabinet.
Step 4. Using a 5/16 inch nut-driver, take out the bolt holding the grounding wire to the rear panel. Pull the power cord out of the cabinet.
Step 5. Place the positive probe of a multimeter on your power cord’s plug. Insert the negative probe into the connector at the other end. A working power cord should have continuity.
Step 6. If the power cord tests positive for continuity, slide it back into the cabinet and plug the connector back into the terminal.
Step 7. Put the power cord grounding wire back in place, then apply the bolt using your 5/16 inch nut-driver.
Step 8. Place the top panel on the machine and tighten the three screws at the back using a 1/4 inch socket wrench.
Step 9. Reconnect the washing machine to the electrical outlet, then turning the appliance on.
Top Loaders
To test the power cord in your Whirlpool top loader washing machine, follow the steps below…
Step 1. Prevent water leaks and electrical damage by unplugging the power cord from the outlet and turning the water faucets off before starting this procedure.
Step 2. Spread a cloth under the inlet hoses at the back of the machine. Loosen the two hoses from the ports (use a pair of pliers if needed).
Step 3. With a 1/4 inch socket wrench, take out the screws on the rear panel securing the control panel assembly.
Step 4. Wedge a tool such as a putty knife under the two front corners of the control panel to release the locking clips. Lift the control panel off the machine, then disconnect the wire harness from the control board.
Step 5. Loosen the screws securing the upper rear access panel using your nut-driver. Slide the panel straight off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 6. Unplug the power cord’s wire connector from the control board, then take out the screw securing the grounding wire using your nut-driver.
Step 7. Remove the bolts holding the wiring and tube guard to the rear panel, then take it off. Use the nut-driver to take out the two screws holding the top panel to the cabinet.
Step 8. Pull the top panel forwards, then lift and support it. Using a pair of needle-nosed pliers, release the retainer at the bottom of the top panel securing the power cord.
Step 9. Lower the top panel and snap it back onto the cabinet. Take the power cord off the top panel.
Step 10. Insert the negative probe of a multimeter into the power cord connector, then insert the positive probe into the power cord plug.
Step 11. On the multimeter, look for a continuous electrical current. If the cord tests negative for continuity, it is damaged and needs to be replaced.
Step 12. If the cord tests positive, snap the retainer back into the slot on the top panel. Using your nut-driver, apply the screws at the back of the machine to secure the top panel.
Step 13. Plug the power cord back into the control board, then use your nut-driver to apply the grounding wire bolt.
Step 14. Put the wiring and tube guard back in place, then tighten the bolts to secure it. Place the upper rear panel on the cabinet and secure it using the nuts.
Step 15. Reconnect the control panel wire connector to the control board. Snap the panel onto the cabinet, then tighten the screws at the back to secure it.
Step 16. Reattach the COLD and HOT water inlet hoses to the ports at the back of the machine (in order to prevent water leakage, ensure that the hoses are properly secured).
Step 17. Plug the machine back into the electrical outlet, then try running a cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
3. Failed Capacitor
The capacitor is a key component in your machine’s starting process. Follow the steps below to learn how to test the capacitor in your Whirlpool washing machine…
Top Loaders
Follow the steps below to test the capacitor in your top loader Whirlpool washing machine…
Step 1. Turn your washing machine’s water faucets off and unplug the power cord from the outlet in order to prevent electrical damage and water leaks.
Step 2. Unscrew the two hoses from the ports at the back of the machine (some water may spill out, so make sure to keep a rag nearby).
Step 3. Using a pair of pliers, release the spring clamp holding the drain hose to the back of the machine. Disconnect the hose from the machine.
Step 4. Place some tape on the lid of your machine to help secure it. With someone else assisting you, carefully tip the machine backwards and set it on the floor.
Step 5. Use 5/16 inch nut-driver to take out the bolts holding the belt guard to the bottom of the tub. Take the guard off and set it aside.
Step 6. Unplug the wire connector from the capacitor at the bottom of the tub. Place a rubber-insulated flat-blade screwdriver on the capacitor terminal to discharge it.
Step 7. Using a screwdriver, take out the nuts holding the capacitor to the transmission plate.
Step 8. Inspect the capacitor for any bulges or swelling. Get a multimeter with a capacitance setting.
Step 9. Place the probes of the multimeter on the capacitor terminals. The micro farad reading should be between the minus or plus tolerance written on the capacitor’s label.
Step 10. If the reading comes back negative, it is damaged and needs to be replaced. If the reading comes back positive, mount the capacitor back onto the transmission plate, then apply the screw to secure it.
Step 11. Plug the wire connector back into the capacitor terminal. Place the belt guard on the transmission assembly, then tighten the screws using your 5/16 inch nut-driver.
Step 12. Carefully lift the washing machine back onto its feet, then peel the tape off the lid. Reconnect the drain hose to the port at the back of the machine, then slide the spring clamp back into place.
Step 13. Reconnect the water inlet hoses to the ports at the back of the machine. Plug the power cord into the outlet, then turn the water taps back on. Try running a cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
Washer/Dryer Combo
To test the capacitor in your Whirlpool washer/dryer combo machine, follow the steps below…
Step 1. Disconnect your washing machine from the electrical outlet before starting this procedure in order to prevent electrocution.
Step 2. With a Philips screwdriver, take out the screws holding the dryer compartment’s lower access panel. Take the panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 3. Pull the access panel clips out of the slots. Take out the four screws holding the two access panels using a 1/4 inch nut-driver.
Step 4. With a flat-blade screwdriver, pry out the retaining clips holding the top panel to the cabinet. Pull the top panel forwards and lift it off the machine.
Step 5. With a 5/16 inch socket wrench, take out the bolt holding the support bar to the front panel. Move the bar out of place.
Step 6. With the nut-driver, loosen the screws at the back of the front panel. Pull the panel upwards, then lift it off the machine.
Step 7. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the upper and lower retaining clips holding the drain pump to the pump shaft.
Step 8. Pull the drain pump off the motor shaft. Unplug the wires attached to the capacitor (make sure to take note of where each wire goes). Disconnect the main wire connector from the motor assembly.
Step 9. Use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to take out the bolts securing the upper and lower motor retaining clips. Pry the clips off.
Step 10. Carefully lift the motor assembly off the plate. With your 5/16 inch socket wrench, loosen the capacitor bracket to the motor assembly.
Step 11. Get a multimeter with capacitance setting. Place the probes of the multimeter on the capacitor terminals.
Step 12. Look for a micro farad reading between the minus and plus tolerance written on the capacitor’s label.
Step 13. If the reading is negative, you’ll need to replace the capacitor. If the reading is positive, mount capacitor back on the motor, then apply the screw to secure the bracket.
Step 14. Mount the motor assembly on the transmission plate, then snap the upper and lower retaining clips back on. Use your nut-driver to apply the bolts on the retaining clips.
Step 15. Plug the wire connectors into the appropriate terminals on the capacitor. Reconnect the main wire harness to the motor assembly.
Step 16. Slide the drain pump onto the motor shaft, then snap the two retaining clips back on.
Step 17. Lift the front panel and mount it on the cabinet. Using the nut-driver, apply the screws at the back of the panel.
Step 18. Move the support bar back back against the front panel, then tighten the screw with your 5/16 inch nut-driver.
Step 19. Place the top panel on the cabinet, then push it into place. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to push the retaining clips into the slots.
Step 20. Mount the two access panels on the machine, then secure the nuts using a 1/4 inch nut-driver. Slid the access panel clips into the slots.
Step 21. Mount the dryer’s lower access panel, then tighten the screws using a Philips screwdriver.
Step 22. Plug the machine back into the electrical outlet, then try running a cycle to see if the issue has been fixed.
4. Faulty Stator
If your Whirlpool washing machine has a stator, a defect could prevent it from working. for detailed steps on how to test this part, read this article: Whirlpool Washing Machine Motor.
5. Damaged Rotor Assembly
The rotor assembly is mounted over the stator, and helps the drum spin smoothly. If this rotor gets damaged, your Whirlpool washing machine will not work properly. The steps below show you how to replace this part…
Front Loaders
Replace the rotor assembly in your front loader Whirlpool washing machine with the following steps…
Step 1. Prevent any chances of electrocution by unplugging your washing machine from the power outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Pull out the four plastic caps on the rear panel. Use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to loosen the screws holding the rear panel to the cabinet. Lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 3. Use a strap wrench to secure the rotor assembly. Take out the bolt holding the rotor to the back of the tub using an 11/16 inch socket wrench. Take the rotor off the machine and set it aside.
Step 4. Prepare your new washing machine rotor for installation by taking it out of its packaging.
Step 5. Mount the new rotor onto the stator assembly, then secure it by applying the bolt with your 11/16 inch socket wrench.
Step 6. Place the rear panel back on the cabinet, then apply the screws using your 1/4 inch nut-driver.
Step 7. Snap the four plastic caps back into the slots on the rear panel. Reconnect the machine to the outlet, then try running a cycle to see if the issue has been fixed.
Top Loaders
To replace the rotor assembly in your top loader Whirlpool washing machine, follow the steps below…
Step 1. Turn your washer’s water taps off and unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet before starting this repair, in order to prevent electrocution and water leakage.
Step 2. Go to the rear of the machine, then use a pair of pliers to release the squeeze-clamp holding the main drain hose to the cabinet. Disconnect the hose from the machine.
Step 3. Spread some towels underneath the inlet hoses in order to catch any leaks. Disconnect the two fill hoses from the back of the machine (use a pair of pliers if needed).
Step 4. Get someone to help you tilt the machine backwards carefully and set it on the floor.
Step 5. Insert a flat-blade screwdriver into an inner hole on the rotor assembly to help jam it. Turning counter-clockwise, use a T-30 Torx bit to loosen the bolt holding the rotor to the tub.
Step 6. Pull the rotor assembly off the machine and discard it. Take your new washing machine rotor out of its packaging.
Step 7. Mount the new rotor on the tub, then tighten then bolt using the socket wrench. Carefully lift the machine back into its feet.
Step 8. Reconnect the outlet hose to the port a the back of the machine, then secure it by sliding the spring clamp into place.
Step 9. Reattach the two inlet hoses to the back of the machine. Turn the water supply faucets back on, then plug the cord into the power outlet. To see if the issue has been fixed, try running a wash cycle.
6. Damaged Rotor Position Sensor
If your Whirlpool washing machine is not working, the final thing you should check is the rotor position sensor. If this part is damaged, the rotor will not function properly. Follow the steps below to replace this part…
Step 1. Disconnect the appliance from the electrical outlet and turn the water taps off in order to prevent any leaks or electrocution.
Step 2. Pull your washer’s drain hose out of the standpipe. Disconnect the COLD and HOT water supply hoses from the ports at the back of the machine (ensure that you keep a rag nearby in case water spills).
Step 3. Tip the washing machine forwards carefully, then set it on the floor (if needed, get someone to help you).
Step 4. With a 1/4 inch Allen wrench, take out the screw holding the rotor assembly to the bottom of the tub. Carefully pull the rotor off and set it aside.
Step 5. Use a 1/4 inch socket to take out the screw holding the stator to the bottom of the tub. Take the spacer off the front off the stator and set it aside.
Step 6. Pull the stator and shield off the bottom of the tub. Unplug the wire connector from the stator assembly.
Step 7. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the rotor position sensor off the stator. Unplug the wire connector from the sensor.
Step 8. Using needle-nosed pliers, release the wire retaining clip from the position sensor.
Step 9. Pry the caps off the drain and re-circulation pumps. Unplug the wire connectors attached to the pump (ensure that you note where each plug goes).
Step 10. Pull the wire harness retaining clips off the bottom of the tub. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the screws holding the main rear access panel to the cabinet. Lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 11. Pull the air pressure tube off the port at the side of the tub, then release it from the retainers.
Step 12. Using a pair of needle-nosed pliers, pull the wire harness retaining clip off the hose bracket.
Step 13. Use a screwdriver to take out the nuts holding the hose retaining plate. Use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to release the front wire retainer from the cabinet.
Step 14. Pull the second retainer off the hose plate. With the 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the screws holding the wire cover to the rear panel.
Step 15. Loosen the nuts holding the control panel to the cabinet. Pry the panel off the machine, then unplug the wire connector attached to the control board.
Step 16. Cut any zip-ties holding the tube and wires. Unplug the appropriate wires and air pressure tube from the control board (make sure to take note of where each plug goes).
Step 17. Pull the wiring and hose assembly out of the machine, then discard it along with the rotor position sensor.
Step 18. Unpack your new rotor position sensor kit. Plug rotor position wires into the appropriate terminals on the control board.
Step 19. Plug the air pressure tube to the port on the main control board. Use a zip-tie to secure any loose wires.
Step 20. Snap the wire retainers into the cabinet and hose plate. Put the wire cover plate back on the cabinet, then tighten the screws to secure it.
Step 21. Move the hose retaining plate back into place, then apply the screws to secure it. Plug the air pressure tube to the port at the side of the tub, then snap it into the retainers.
Step 22. Route the wires under the pump inlet hose. Snap the retainers into the slots on the tub. Plug each wire connector to its appropriate terminal on the re-circulation pump and drain pump.
Step 23. Plug the wire connector into the new rotor position sensor, then secure the wire retainer. Snap the new sensor onto the stator assembly. Plug the main wire harness to the stator.
Step 24. Mount the shield and stator at the bottom of the tub, then slide the front spacer on. Tighten the bolts using a socket wrench.
Step 25. Place the rotor on the stator, then tighten the nut using your Allen wrench. Place the rear panel on the cabinet, then tighten the screws to secure it.
Step 26. Plug the control panel’s wire connector to the main control board. Snap the control panel back onto the machine, then tighten the screws to secure it.
Step 27. Lift the washing machine back on its feet. Reinsert the drain hose into the standpipe and reconnect the water supply hoses.
Step 28. Reconnect the cord to the electrical outlet, then turn the water taps on. Try running wash cycle.
Note: The steps above are only applicable to top loaders.
Whirlpool Washing Machine Touch Panel Is Not Working — Quick Fix
If the touch panel in your Whirlpool washing machine is not working, all you need to do is unplug the appliance from the electrical outlet for two minutes, then plug it back in.
Note: All the steps in this article may vary slightly depending on the model of your washing machine.
