Maytag Washing Machine Shakes Violently [Causes & Solutions]

If your Maytag washing machine shakes violently, you’ve come to the right place. This in-depth guide explains the causes of this issue and gives you steps on how to fix them…

Maytag Washing Machine Shakes Violently — How To Fix

If your Maytag washing machine shakes violently, here are the issues to look for…

1. Machine Isn’t Balanced

If your Maytag washing machine shakes violently, you should check to ensure that it is properly balanced on the floor. Place a spirit level tool on top of the machine and ensure it is balanced. If any leg of the machine is longer than the others, you’ll need to tip the washer backwards and adjust the leg as needed using a spanner.In order to help your washing machine stay balanced, ensure that it sits on a firm even surface.

2. Damaged Drum Weights (Front Loaders)

Your washing machine has weights mounted on the drum. If these get damaged, your washing machine will shake violently. Follow the steps below to replace this part…

Front Weights

To replace the front weight in your Maytag front loader washing machine, follow the steps below…

Step 1. Make sure to disconnect your washing machine from the outlet before starting this repair in order to avoid electrical damage.

Step 2. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the bolts at the back of the washer holding the top panel. Lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.

Step 3. Pull the soap tray out of the dispenser, then press the little tab inside to release it from the housing. Set the soap tray aside.

Step 4. Use a Torx screwdriver to take out the screws next to the dispenser opening. Using a flat-blade screwdriver if needed, pry the control panel assembly off the washer and set it on the cabinet.

Step 5. With a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the screws holding the lower access panel to the machine.

Step 6. Open your washer’s door, then take out the bolts holding the door switch assembly to the front panel.

Step 7. Using needle-nosed pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver, carefully pry off the retaining wire around the door boot seal (take care not to puncture the seal).

Step 8. Carefully peel the door boot seal off the front of the machine. Using a 1/4 inch socket wrench, take out the nuts at the top and bottom of the main front panel.

Step 9. Carefully lift the main front panel off the cabinet and set it aside. Using a 13mm socket wrench, take out the three bolts holding each of the counter-weights to the front of the drum.

Step 10. Lift the weights off the drum carefully and discard them. Take your new washing machine counter-weights out of their packaging.

Step 11. Mount each of the new weights on the drum, then tighten the nuts using your 13mm socket wrench.

Step 12. Mount the main front panel back onto the cabinet, then use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to apply the screws at the top and bottom.

Step 13. Snap the lower access plate onto the cabinet. Secure the panel using your nut-driver.

Step 14. Open your washer’s door and push the door switch assembly back into place. Secure the door lock to the front panel by applying the Torx screws.

Step 15. Refit the door boot seal around the front panel. Using your flat-blade screwdriver, fit the outer retaining wire around the door gasket.

Step 16. Snap the control panel onto the front of the cabinet, then tighten the screws next to the dispenser opening.

Step 17. Slide the detergent tray back into the housing. Place the top panel on the washer, then use your 1/4 inch nut-driver to apply the bolts at the back.

Step 18. Plug your washing machine back into the power outlet, then try running a spin cycle to ensure that the issue has been fixed.

Rear Weight

To replace the rear weight on your Maytag washing machine, follow the steps below…

Step 1. Disconnect your washing machine from the power outlet in order to prevent electrocution.

Step 2. Use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to loosen the screws holding the rear panel to the cabinet. Lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.

Step 3. Use your nut-driver to loosen the nuts holding the upper rear brace to the cabinet. Take the brace off the machine.

Step 4. Using a 13mm socket wrench, loosen the bolts holding the rear weight to the drum. Lift the weight off the machine and set it aside.

Step 5. Take your new drum weight out of its packaging and mount it on the tub. Secure the new weight to the tub by applying the bolts with your socket wrench.

Step 6. Mount the upper rear brace on the cabinet, then use your nut-driver to tighten the screws.

Step 7. Remount the rear access panel on the machine. Secure the panel by applying the screws with your nut-driver.

Step 8. Plug your washing machine back into the electrical outlet. To ensure that the issue has been fixed, try running a spin cycle.

3. Failed Shock Absorbers (Front Loaders)

To test and replace the shock absorbers in your Maytag front loader washing machine, take the following steps…

Front Shock Absorbers

To replace the front shock absorbers in your Maytag washing machine, follow the steps below…

Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, it is advised that you unplug your washing machine from the power outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the three screws at the back of the machine holding the top panel. Slid the panel backwards about an inch or so, then lift it off the cabinet.

Step 3. Pull the soap tray out of the dispenser and press the little tab inside to release it from the housing.

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Step 4. Take out the screws next to the dispenser opening using a Torx screwdriver. With a 1/4 inch socket wrench, take out the bolts at the top of the control panel. Pry the panel off, then set it on top of the machine.

Step 5. Open the door of your machine. Loosen the screws holding the door switch to the front panel using a Torx-20 screwdriver.

Step 6. With a flat-blade screwdriver, carefully take the retaining clamp off the door boot seal (take care not to damage the seal).

Step 7. Peel the door gasket off the front panel. With someone assisting you, tip your machine backwards carefully and support it.

Step 8. Using a 1/4 inch socket wrench, loosen the four screws at the bottom of the front panel. Set your washing machine back on its feet.

Step 9. Loosen the three bolts at the top of the front panel using a 5/16 inch socket wrench. Carefully lift the front panel off the cabinet and set it aside.

Step 10. Use pliers to grab the upper mounts of one of the front shock absorbers. Rotate the mount, then pull it off the tub. Repeat this process with the lower mount.

Step 11. Try pulling the shock absorber apart and pushing it inwards. If you feel little or no resistance, the part is damaged and needs to be replaced.

Step 12. Snap the shock absorber’s lower mount into the opening at the bottom of the cabinet, then rotate it to secure.

Step 13. Push the upper mount into the port at the bottom of the tub, then rotate it using pliers. Inspect the second front shock absorber in the same way.

Step 14. Lift the main front panel and mount it on the cabinet. Secure the panel by applying the three screws at the top using a 5/16 inch nut-driver.

Step 15. Tip the machine backwards carefully, then use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to apply the bolts at the bottom.

Step 16. Open the door of your machine, then push the door lock back into place. Secure the door lock by applying the screws with your Torx screwdriver.

Step 17. Refit the door boot seal around the front panel. Use your pliers to fit the retaining wire around the door boot seal.

Step 18. Snap the control panel onto the front of the cabinet, then use your Torx screwdriver to apply the nuts near the dispenser opening.

Step 19. Use your nut-driver to apply the screws at the top of the control panel. Slide the soap tray back into the dispenser.

Step 20. Remount the top panel on the cabinet, then use a 1/4 inch nut-driver to apply the screws at the back.

Step 21. Plug your washing machine back into the electrical outlet, then try running a spin cycle to ensure that the issue has been fixed.

Rear Shock Absorbers

To replace the rear shock absorbers in your front loader Maytag washing machine, follow the steps below…

Step 1. In order to prevent electrocution, it is advised that you disconnect your washing machine from the outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. Pull out the four plastic transit caps in the rear panel, then set them aside aside. Loosen the bolts holding the rear panel to the cabinet using a 1/4 inch nut-driver.

Step 3. Carefully lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside. To replace one of the rear shock absorbers in your washer, use a pair of pliers to grab the upper mounting pin, rotate it, then detach it from the tub.

Step 4. Using your pliers, detach the shock’s lower retaining pin from the bottom of the cabinet. Discard the old shock absorber, then prepare the new one for installation by taking it out of its packaging.

Step 5. Install the new shock absorber by snapping the lower mounting pin into the slot at the bottom of the cabinet.

Step 6. Using pliers, push the upper mounting pin into the port at the bottom of the tub, then rotate it to secure.

Step 7. Lift the rear panel and mount it on the cabinet. Secure the panel by applying the nuts with your 1/4 inch nut-driver.

Step 8. Snap the transit caps back into the slots on the rear panel. Plug your washing machine into the outlet, then ensure that the issue has been fixed by running a spin cycle.

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4. Damaged Suspension Rods (Top Loaders)

To replace damaged suspension rods in your top loader Maytag washing machine, follow the steps below…

Step 1. In order to prevent electrocution and water leakage, it is advised that you disconnect your washing machine from the outlet and turn the water faucets off before starting this repair.

Step 2. Using a pair of pliers if needed, detach the water supply hoses from the ports at the back of the machine (some water may spill out, so keep a rag nearby).

Step 3. Release the retaining clamp holding the drain hose to the port at the back of the machine. Pull the hose off the washer (keep a rag nearby).

Step 4. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the screws holding the wiring and tube guard to the back of the machine. Take the guard off and set it aside.

Step 5. Use your nut-driver to loosen the bolts holding the top panel to the cabinet. Place some tape on the lid of your machine to secure it.

Step 6. Lift the top panel and support it using a lanyard, or by placing it against a wall. Lift one of the suspension rods, rotate the ball support, then take it off. Lower the rod out of the mount, then hook it onto the cabinet. Repeat this process with the other rods.

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Step 7. Carefully lower the top panel onto the cabinet, then apply the screws at the back using your nut-driver.

Step 8. Tip your washing machine backwards carefully, then set it on the floor. Slide each of the four suspension rods through the tub mounts, then discard them.

Step 9. Take your new suspension rod kit out of its packaging. Slide each of the rods through the openings on the tub, then hook them onto the support braces.

Step 10. Carefully lift your washing machine back onto its feet. Use your nut-driver to take out the bolts holding the top panel. Lift the top panel and support it.

Step 11. Lift each of the new rods through the openings on the support braces, then snap the ball supports on.

Step 12. Lower the top panel back onto the cabinet, then use your 1/4 inch nut-driver to apply the screws at the back.

Step 13. Put the wiring and tube guard back in place, then apply the nut to secure it. Connect the drain hose to the outlet port at the back of the machine. Use a pair of pliers to slide the retaining clamp into place.

Step 14. Reconnect the HOT and COLD water supply hoses to their corresponding ports at the back of the machine (ensure that the hoses are properly connected in order to prevent leaks).

Step 15. Reconnect your washer’s power cord to the electrical outlet, then turn the water taps on. Ensure that the shaking has stopped by running a spin cycle.

5. Damaged Suspension Springs (Front Loaders)

Replace the suspension springs in your front loader Maytag washing machine with the following steps…

Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, it is advised that you disconnect your washing machine from the outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the bolts at the back of the washer securing the top panel. Lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.

Step 3. Loop a ratchet strap through one of the mounts at the side of the tub to support it.

Step 4. Unhook the suspension spring you want to replace from the tub and cabinet. Take the bushing off the spring and set it aside.

Step 5. Take your new spring out of its packaging and hook it onto the tub and cabinet. Attach the new busing suspension spring.

Step 6. Detach the ratchet strap from the tub, then replace the second suspension spring in the same way.

Step 7. Mount the top panel back on the cabinet, then tighten the screws at the back using your nut-driver. Plug your washer back into the outlet, then try running a cycle to ensure that the issue has been fixed.

6. Cracked Spider Support Arm (Front Loaders)

If the spider support arm is cracked, you washer will shake a lot during spin cycles. It’s important to inspect this part as soon as possible in order to prevent further damage. Here’s how to do this…

Step 1. Before starting this repair, it is advised that you disconnect your washing machine from the power outlet and turn the water taps off in order to prevent damage.

Step 2. Use a Torx screwdriver to loosen the nuts holding the top panel to the cabinet. Slide the panel backwards about an inch or so, then lift it off the cabinet.

Step 3. Loosen the nut securing the rear access panel to the cabinet. Lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.

Step 4. Loosen the bolts holding the top and bottom rear braces using your screwdriver. Take the braces off and set them aside.

Step 5. Carefully unhook the drive belt from the motor pulley and drive pulley. Detach the grounding wire from the motor assembly at the bottom of the tub.

Step 6. Using a 13mm socket wrench, take out the bolts holding the drive motor to the bottom of the tub. Carefully lift the motor off the assembly and set it on the floor of the cabinet.

Step 7. Use a 24mm socket wrench to loosen the bolt holding the pulley wheel to the inner tub shaft. Take the pulley off the shaft and set it aside.

Step 8. Go to the front of the machine, then slide the soap tray out of the dispenser. Press the little tab in the detergent tray to completely release it from the housing.

Step 9. Take out the screws next to the dispenser opening using your Torx screwdriver. Pry the panel off the front off the cabinet.

Step 10. Release the control panel’s wire from the retainers on the cabinet, then disconnect the wire harness from the main control board.

Step 11. Loosen the screws holding the lower front access panel. Take the panel off the machine and set it aside.

Step 12. Open your washer’s door, then use your Torx screwdriver to loosen the nuts holding the door switch assembly to the front panel.

Step 13. Using needle-nosed pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver, carefully take the outer retaining band off the door boot seal (take care not to damage the seal).

Step 14. Peel the door boot seal off the front panel. Use your screwdriver to loosen the bolts at the top and bottom of the main front panel. Lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.

Step 15. Detach the dispenser hose from the opening at the top of the drum. Move the dispenser assembly out of place.

Step 16. Take out the bolts holding the top and bottom weights to the front of the drum using a 13mm socket wrench. Lift each weight off the drum and set it aside.

Step 17. Use a 7mm socket wrench to loosen the bolt holding the inner retaining wire to the door boot seal. Peel the door boot seal off the drum opening and set it aside.

Step 18. Disconnect the temperature sensor wire connector at the lower portion of the drum, then detach the wire from the retainers.

Step 19. Place a small container underneath the pump filter. Turn the pump filter knob, then let any water stuck in the machine drain out.

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Step 20. Once all the water has drained out, put the pump filter back in place. Use pliers to release the retaining clamp holding the sump hose to the bottom of the tub. Disconnect the sump hose from the tub (some water may spill out.

Step 21. Go to the back of the drum, then loosen the bolts holding the rear weight. Lift the weight off the drum and set it aside.

Step 22. Use a Torx screwdriver to loosen the nut securing the grounding wire on the bearing hub at the back of the tub. Pull the wire out of the little slots at the back of the tub.

Step 23. With your screwdriver, loosen the nut holding the pressure tube assembly to the back of the tub. Detach the pressure tube assembly from the tub and set it aside.

Step 24. Using pliers, release the retaining clamp holding the second outlet hose to the port at the back if the tub. Detach the hose from the tub.

Step 25. Rotate the tops of each of the four shock absorbers, the pull them out of the mounts at the bottom of the tub.

Step 26. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the wire harness retaining bracket off the cabinet (this gives you access to one of the suspension springs).

Step 27. Carefully lift the two suspension springs and unhook them from the cabinet. Guide the tub assembly out of the cabinet.

Step 28. Unhook the suspension springs from the tub mounts. Set the tub assembly on the floor face-down.

Step 29. With a flat-blade screwdriver, carefully pry off each of the retaining clamps securing the two halves of the drum.

Step 30. Pry the front half of the drum off the assembly and set it aside. Pull the inner tub out of the rear half of the outer drum.

Step 31. Set the inner tub on the floor face-down. Inspect the spider arm for cracks or any signs of damage. If the part is damaged, it will need to be replaced.

Step 32. To replace this part, you’ll need to loosen the screws securing it to the inner tub, then replace with the new one. Depending on your washer’s model, you’ll need to replace the entire inner tub.

Step 31. Set the front half of the outer tub face-down on the floor, then lower the inner tub on. Lower the rear half of the outer tub onto the inner tub shaft.

Step 32. With a hammer, snap each of the retaining clips onto the tub assembly. Set the tub upright, then attach the suspension springs to the mounts.

Step 33. Guide the tub assembly back into the cabinet. Hook each of the springs into the cabinet slots.

Step 34. Push the upper mounts of each of the shock absorbers into the slots at the bottom of the tub.

Step 35. Snap the wire harness retaining bracket back on the cabinet. Refit the door boot seal around the front of the drum. Fit the inner retaining band around the seal, then tighten the nut using a 7mm socket wrench.

Step 36. Mount the two front weights on the drum, then secure them by applying the nuts with a 13mm socket wrench.

Step 37. Go to the back of the machine and remount the rear weight on the drum. Secure the weight by applying the 13mm bolts.

Step 38. Snap the pressure tube assembly back onto the tub, then apply the nuts with your Torx screwdriver.

Step 39. With a Torx screwdriver, apply the nut to secure the grounding wire to the bearing hub. Push the wire into the slots on the tub.

Step 40. Go to the front of the machine and reconnect the temperature sensor wire connector.

Step 41. Mount the drive pulley on the inner tub shaft, then secure it using the 24mm bolt.

Step 42. Connect the sump hose to the port at the bottom of the tub, then reconnect the second outlet hose. Secure both hoses by sliding the retaining clamps into place.

Step 43. Mount the drive motor onto the bottom of the tub, then secure it by applying the bolts with your 13mm socket wrench. Reconnect the grounding wire to the motor.

Step 44. Loop the drive belt around the motor pulley and drive pulley (ensure that the grooved side is turned inwards).

Step 45. Mount the main front panel on the cabinet, then tighten the screws at the top and bottom.

Step 46. Snap the lower front access panel onto the machine. Secure the panel by applying the screws at the bottom using your screwdriver.

Step 47. Pass the control panel wires through the opening at the front of the cabinet. Snap the panel onto the cabinet, then use your screwdriver to apply the nut next to the dispenser opening.

Step 48. Secure the control panel wire in the retaining bracket, then plug the connector to the main control board.

Step 49. Slide the soap tray into the dispenser. Mount the upper and lower rear braces on the cabinet, then secure them by applying the bolts using your Torx screwdriver.

Step 50. Mount the rear access panel back on the cabinet. Secure the panel by applying the Torx screws.

Step 51. Mount the top panel on the cabinet, then tighten the screws at the back. Open your washing machine’s door, then push the door switch assembly back into place. Secure the door switch by applying the nuts using your Torx screwdriver.

Step 52. Fit the door boot seal back around the front panel. Using needle-nosed pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver, fit the outer retaining band around the door boot seal.

Step 53. Reconnect your washing machine to the power outlet and turn the water faucets on. Ensure that everything works properly by running a cycle.

Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will vary a bit depending on the model of your Maytag washing machine.

7. Damaged Bearings

The bearings are mounted at the back of the outer tub. If the bearings get warped, your washing machine will shake violently. To find out it the bearings are bad, open the door of the machine and try rotating the drum by hand.

If you notice a lot of shaking and creaking from the drum, you’ll need to replace the bearings. For detailed steps on how to do this, read this article: Maytag Washing Machine Bearings.