If you are experiencing issues with your washing machine cycles, you’ve come to the right place. This detailed guide will explain the causes of these issues and provide solutions on how to fix them. So, without further ado, let’s get right to it…
Table of Contents
Washing Machine Stops Mid-Cycle — Solved
If your washing machine stops in the middle of a cycle, it indicates that something is preventing your washing machine from draining. Here are the things that cause drainage problems in your washing machine…
1. Blocked Drain Pump Filter (Only Front Loader Washing Machines)
Here’s how to clean a blocked drain pump filter in your front loader washing machine…
Step 1. Turn off your washing machine’s power supply before starting this repair in order to prevent electrocution.
Step 2. Open the little access cover at the lower front section of your washing machine. Pull out the small capped tube from underneath the panel.
Step 3. Place a container under the hose. Pull the hose’s cap off and let any water that may be stuck in your washing machine drain out. Once you’ve completely drained the machine, put the hose’s cap back on and push the hose back into place.
Step 4. Turn the knob beside the emergency drain hose and pull it out (this is the drain pump filter). Take the filter to a sink and clean out any dirt and debris that may have accumulated in it. Once you’ve properly cleaned the filter, put it back inside the washing machine.
Step 5. Turn on your washing machine’s power supply and try running a wash cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
2. Failed Drain Pump
Your washing machine will not be able to drain water if the drain pump has failed. Here’s what you’ll need to do to replace your washing machine’s drain pump assembly.
How To Change The Drain Pump In A Front Loader Washing Machine
Do the following to replace the drain pump assembly in your front loader washing machine…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, it is recommended that you unplug your washing machine from its power source before starting this repair.
Step 2. Use a screwdriver to take out the screws holding the rear panel of your washing machine. Lift the panel up and pull it off the washing machine.
Step 3. The drain pump assembly will be mounted at the bottom of the tub. Disconnect each electrical connector attached to the pump (take note of where each connector goes).
Step 4. Using a pair of pliers, press the clamp on the outlet hose attached to the drain pump and slide it out of place Disconnect the hose from the drain pump assembly (male sure you have a rag nearby in case water spills out of the hose).
Step 5. Take out the screws holding the drain pump assembly to the bottom of the tub with a 5/16 inch socket. Pull the drain pump assembly out of the washing machine and set it aside. Take your new washing machine drain pump out of its packaging.
Step 6. Mount the new drain pump assembly at the bottom of the drum and apply the screws with your socket wrench to secure it. Connect the outlet hose to the new drain pump assembly and slide the retaining clamp in place to secure. Connect each electrical connector to its appropriate terminal on the new drain pump.
Step 7. Put the rear panel of your washing machine back on and apply the screws to secure it. Plug your washing machine back to its power outlet and try running a wash cycle to see if the issue has been fixed.
How To Change The Drain Pump In A Top Loader Washing Machine
Do the following to replace a damaged drain pump in your top loader washing machine…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of water leakage and electrocution, we recommend unplugging your washing machine from its power supply and turning the water valve off before starting this repair.
Step 2. Unscrew the water supply hoses from the inlet ports at the back of your washing machine (make sure to keep a rag nearby in case water leaks out of the hoses).
Step 3. Press the clamp on the drain hose attached to your washing machine and slide it out of place. Disconnect the drain hose from your washing machine.
Step 4. Put some tape on the lid of your washing machine. Tilt your washing machine backwards and lay it on the floor. The drain pump assembly will be mounted underneath the machine. Disconnect the two electrical connectors attached to the pump.
Step 5. Use a pair of pliers to press the clamp on the drain outlet hose and slide it out of place. Disconnect the hose from the drain pump assembly (be sure to keep a rag nearby in case water spills out of the hose).
Step 6. Use a nut driver to take out the bolts holding the drain pump assembly to your washing machine. Pull the drain pump out of your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 7. Take your new drain pump assembly out of its packaging. Mount the new drain pump on the tube and apply the mounting bolts to secure it. Connect the outlet hose to the new pump assembly and slide the retaining clamp in place to secure. Connect the electrical connectors to the new drain pump.
Step 8. Lift your washing machine upright and peel the tape off the lid of your washing machine. Connect the drain hose back to the washing machine and slide the retaining clamp back in place to secure it.
Step 9. Connect the COLD and HOT water supply lines back to the water inlet ports at the back of your washing machine (make sure to secure the connections properly to prevent water leakage). Turn on your washing machine’s water supply and plug the power cord back in. Try running a wash cycle to see if the issue has been resolved.
Washing Machine Spin Cycle Loud Banging — Solution
If you are hearing a loud banging sound from your washing machine during spin cycles, here are the issues to check for…
1. Damaged Suspension Rod (Top Loaders Only)
Do the following to replace a damaged suspension rod in your top loader washing machine…
Step 1. Make sure to unplug your washing machine from its power outlet before starting any repairs in order to prevent electrocution.
Step 2. Open the lid of your washing machine. Insert a putty knife underneath your washing machine’s main top panel to release the two retaining clips. Lift the main top panel and support it.
Step 3. Lift the tub up and pull out the suspension rod you want to replace. Pull the rod out of the support and set it aside.
Step 4. Take your new suspension rod out of its packaging. Apply some grease to the bottom and top of the new rod. Lift the tub and slide the new suspension rod into support at the side of the tub.
Step 5. Lower the main top panel of your washing machine and snap it back into place. Plug your washing machine back to its power supply and try running a spin cycle to see if the issue has been resolved.
2. Damaged Shock Absorbers (Front Loaders Only)
Do the following to replace a damaged shock absorber in your front loader washing machine…
Step 1. It is advised that you unplug your washing machine from its power supply and turn off the water valve before starting this repair in order to prevent any chances of electrocution or water leakage.
Step 2. Flip open the little access panel at the lower front section of your washing machine. Pull out the emergency drain hose under the panel.
Step 3. Place a container under the hose. Pull the hose’s cap off and let any water that may be stuck inside your washing machine drain out. Once you’ve drained out all the water, put the cap back on.
Step 4. Use a Philips screwdriver to take out the screw beside the emergency drain hose. Pull the drain pump filter housing out of your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 5. Use your screwdriver to take out the screw beside the hose holding the front panel to the cabinet.
Step 6. Open the door of your washing machine. Insert a flat-blade screwdriver under the metal retaining band around the door boot sea. Work the screwdriver around until the entire band comes off. Peel the door seal away from the door opening.
Step 7. Using your Philips screwdriver, take out the screws holding the door lock assembly to the front panel. Close the door of your washing machine.
Step 8. Remove the screws at the back of your washing machine holding the top panel. Slide the top panel backwards a few inches and lift it off your washing machine.
Step 9. Pull out the dispenser drawer and press the tab inside it to take it out of the washing machine completely. Use your Philips screwdriver to remove the two screws beside the detergent drawer housing. Slide the detergent dispenser backwards away from the control panel.
Step 10. Take out the screw at the right corner at the back of the control panel. Disconnect all the electrical connectors attached to the control panel (make sure to take note of where each connector goes). Pry the control panel off your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 11. Use your Philips screwdriver to remove the six screws at the top of the front panel of your washing machine. Carefully lift the main front panel off your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 12. The shock absorber is held by hinge two pins. Put a 13mm socket on the pointed end of the top hinge pin and pull the pin out with a pair of pliers. Repeat this process for with the bottom pin.
Step 13. Pull the shock absorber out of the washing machine and set it aside. Take your new washing machine shock absorber out of its packaging.
Step 14. Put the new shock absorber into the slots on the drum. Apply some lubricant to the pins and press them into the holes to secure the shock absorber (use a pair of pliers if needed).
Step 15. Put the main front panel of your washing machine back on and apply the six screws at the top to secure it. Snap the control panel back into place and connect each electrical connector to its appropriate terminal. Apply the screw at the back of the control panel.
Step 16. Slide the detergent dispenser back into place and apply the two screws on the control panel to secure it. Slide the soap drawer back into the housing.
Step 17. Slide the top panel of your washing machine back on and apply the screws at the back with a Philips screwdriver to secure it.
Step 18. Open the door of your washing machine and put the door lock back into place. Apply the screws with your Philips screwdriver to secure it. Fit the door seal back around the door opening. Fit the metal retaining band around the door boot seal (you may need a flat-blade screwdriver to do this properly).
Step 19. Close the door of your washing machine. Apply the screw beside the emergency drain hose to secure the main front panel. Put the drain pump filter housing back into place and apply the screw to secure it. Close the access panel.
Step 20. Plug your washing machine back to its power outlet and turn the water valve on. Try running a spin cycle to see if the issue has been resolved.
Note: To replace the rear shock absorbers, all you’ll need to do is unscrew the rear panel of your washing machine and repeat the shock installation procedure.
3. Damaged Coupling (Top Loaders Only)
Here’s what you’ll need to do to replace the coupling in your top loader washing machine…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, it is recommended that you unplug your washing machine from its power outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the screws at the back of your washing machine holding the rear access panel. Pull the panel off your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 3. Tilt your washing machine forwards and lay it on a support. Take out the bolt at the bottom of your washing machine holding the rotor assembly with a 24mm socket wrench.
Step 4. Lift the rotor off your washing machine and set it aside. Take out the three screws holding the coupling to the back of the tub with an 8mm socket. Take the coupling and spring off the washing machine.
Step 5. Take the new coupling out of its packaging. Take the spring off the old coupling and put it back on the shaft. Put the new coupling onto the spring and apply the three screws with your socket wrench to secure it.
Step 6. Put the rotor assembly back onto the shaft and apply the bolt to secure it. Lift your washing machine upright. Put the rear panel back onto the washing machine and apply the screws to secure it.
Step 7. Plug your washing machine’s power cord back into the power outlet and try running a spin cycle to see if the issue has been resolved.
Check out these other articles…
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Washing Machine Dryer [How To, Issues & Solutions]
Washing Machine Not Pumping Water [Proven Solution]
Washing Machine Overfilling/Overflowing [Problems Solved]
4. Damaged Spider Support Arm (Front Loaders Only)
Do the following to replace the spider support arm in your front loader washing machine…
Step 1. It is recommended that you unplug your washing machine from its power supply and turn the water valve off before starting this repair in order to prevent electrocution and water leakage.
Step 2. Take out the two screws holding the top panel of your washing machine using a Philips screwdriver. Slide the top panel backwards and lift it off your washing machine.
Step 3. Pull out the soap dispenser drawer and press the locking tab inside it to take it out of the washing machine completely. Take out the two screws beside the detergent drawer housing using a Philips screwdriver.
Step 4. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the control panel assembly (make sure you note where each connector goes). Pry the tabs on the control panel to release it and set it aside.
Step 5. Open your washing machine’s door. Insert a flat-blade screwdriver underneath the retaining wire securing the door seal. Work the screwdriver around until you can take the entire wire off. Peel the door boot seal away from your washer’s door opening.
Step 6. Flip open the drain pump filter housing cover. Use your Philips screwdriver to remove the screw near the drain pump filter and pry the housing out of your washing machine.
Step 7. With the housing removed, use your screwdriver to take out the screw at the bottom of the front panel. Remove the three screws at the top of the main front panel.
Step 8. Carefully lift the main front panel out of place. Reach behind the panel and disconnect the door lock electrical connector. Set the main front panel aside.
Step 9. Place a container under the emergency drain hose next to the drain pump filter. Pull the hose’s cap off and drain out any water that may be stuck in your washing machine. Once all the water has been drained out, put the hose back on.
Step 10. Using a pair of pliers, press the clamp on the drain outlet hose connected to the tub and slide it out of place. Disconnect the drain hose from the drum (you should keep a rag nearby in case water spills out).
Step 11. Put a 13mm socket onto the pointed end of the hinge pins holding the front drum shock absorbers. Use a pair of pliers to pull the pins out (pull only the top pins out).
Step 12. Go to the back of your washing machine and use a Philips screwdriver to take out the screws holding the rear access cover. Lift the panel off your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 13. Take out the rear shock absorber pins the same way you took out the front ones. Remove the bolt at the center of the back of your drum with a 11/16 inch socket wrench.
Step 14. Carefully pull the rotor off the back of your washing machine and set it aside. Remove the six bolts holding the motor stator to the back of the drum using a 10mm socket wrench. Lift the motor stator off your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 15. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the motor stator and take out the screw holding the wire retainer to the drum. Pull the thermistor out of the seal.
Step 16. Using a 10mm socket wrench, take out the bolts holding the counter-weights to the front of the drum. Lift the counter-weights off your washing machine and set them aside.
Step 17. Pull the air pressure hose out of the water level sensor. Use a pair of pliers to press the clamps on the two hoses attached to the top of the drum and slide them out of place. Disconnect the hoses from the drum.
Step 18. With the help of another person, lift up the two suspension springs holding the drum and lower the drum to the base of your washing machine. Carefully pull the drum through the front of your washing machine.
Step 19. Turn the tub over and lift it off the floor with two supports (one on each side of the drum). Take out all the bolts holding the two halves of the drum with a 10mm socket.
Step 20. Lift the front half of the drum off and set it aside. There is a rubber seal between the two halves of the drum. It is advised that you replace this seal whenever you split the drum in half. Use a screwdriver to pry the seal off the bottom half of the drum.
Step 21. Turn the lower half of the tub upside-down and lay it on the supports. Apply some penetrating oil to the outer bearing and shaft under the tub.
Step 22. Put a block of wood onto the shaft and strike it with a hammer to knock the inner tub out. Lift the outer drum off the shaft and set it aside.
Step 23. Apply the penetrating oil to the bolts holding the spider support arm. If available, use a heat gun to free the bolts up. Take out the bolts using a 10mm socket wrench. Using a putty knife and a hammer, pry the spider support arm off the inner tub.
Step 24. Set the old spider arm aside and take the new one out of its packaging. Put the new spider arm onto the back of the tub and apply the 10mm bolts to secure it.
Step 25. Turn the lower half of the outer tub upside down and lower the inner tub into it. Put the upper half of the outer tub back on and apply the bolts with your 10mm socket to secure the two halves of the drum.
Step 26. Carefully lift the tub assembly into your washing machine’s cabinet. Lift the drum and hook the two suspension springs to the cabinet.
Step 27. Connect the air pressure tube back to the water level sensor. Connect all the hoses to the top of the drum and slide the retaining clamps in place to secure them.
Step 28. Put the counter-weights back onto the drum and apply all the bolts with your socket wrench to secure it.
Step 29. Go to the back of your washing machine. Put the thermistor back into place and secure the wire harness in the retainer on the drum. Connect each electrical connector to its appropriate terminal on then drive motor stator.
Step 30. Place the motor stator on the back of the tub and apply the six bolts to secure it. Put the rotor back on the motor stator and apply the bolt with your 11/16 socket wrench.
Step 31. Put the rear shock absorbers back into the mounts at the bottom of the tub and push the retaining pins into place to secure. Repeat this process with the front shock absorbers.
Step 32. Connect the drain outlet hose back to the port at the bottom of the drum and slide the retaining clamp in place to secure it. Put the rear access panel of your washing machine back on and apply the screws to secure it.
Step 33. Connect the electrical connector back to the door lock on the front panel. Snap the main front panel back in place and apply the three screws at the top and the one screw at the bottom of the panel to secure.
Step 34. Put the drain pump filter housing back in place and apply the screw to secure it. Put the lower front access cover back on.
Step 35. Open the door of your washing machine. Fit the door boot seal back around the door opening. Fit the retaining wire around the door seal (use a flat-blade screwdriver to do this if needed).
Step 36. Close the door of your washing machine. Snap the control panel back in place and connect each electrical connector to its appropriate terminal on the panel.
Step 37. Put the soap dispenser back into place and apply the screws beside the detergent drawer opening on the control panel. Push the dispenser drawer back into the housing.
Step 38. Slide the top panel of your washing machine back into place and apply the screws at the back with your Philips screwdriver to secure it.
Step 39. Plug your washing machine back to its power outlet and turn on the water supply valve. Try running a spin cycle to see if the issue has been fixed.
5. Worn Tub Bearing
Here’s how to replace a worn tub bearing in your washing machine…
How To Change Damaged Bearing In Top Loader Washing Machine Bearing
Do the following to replace a faulty bearing in your top loader washing machine…
Step 1. We recommend unplugging your washing machine from its power supply and turning off the water valve before starting any repairs in order to prevent any chances of electrocution or water leakage.
Step 2. Use your Philips screwdriver to remove the screws holding the rear cover of the control panel. Detach the control panel from the housing and lay it on the lid of your washing machine. Disconnect the air pressure hose from the water level sensor.
Step 3. Disconnect all the electrical connectors from the control panel and set the panel aside.
Step 4. Insert a putty knife under the main top panel of your washing machine to release the retaining clips securing the front panel. Detach the panel from the washing machine and set it aside.
Step 5. Use your Philips screwdriver to remove the screws at the front of your washing machine holding the top panel. Lift the top panel off your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 6. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws at the back of the control panel housing. Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to take out the five screws holding the metal plate to the top of your washing machine.
Step 7. Detach the plate and support brackets from your washing machine and set them aside. Pull the agitator out of the drum and set it aside.
Step 8. Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the screws holding the shock dampening straps to the tub assembly. Pry the tabs on the tub cover to release it. Pull the cover out and set it aside.
Step 9. Use a socket wrench with an extension to take out the bolt holding the coupling. Pull the coupling out of your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 10. Using a spanner wrench and a hammer, loosen the tub nut inside the washing machine’s drum (if the nut is too tight, apply some penetrating oil to loosen it up).
Step 11. Carefully lift the inner tub out of your washing machine and set it aside. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry out the split ring and washer off the shaft inside the outer tub.
Step 12. Disconnect the air pressure tube from the port at the side of the port. Use your screwdriver to take out the screw holding the grounding wire next to the motor.
Step 13. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the motor assembly. Release the motor wires from the retainer. Untwist the motor wires from the suspension rod.
Step 14. Use a pair of pliers to press the clamp on the hose attached to the bottom of the tub and slide it out of place. Disconnect the hose from the port on the tub (make sure to place a rag at the bottom of the machine to catch any water leaks).
Step 15. The drum is held by four suspension rods. Lift the drum up a bit and knock the rod supports out of place. Carefully lift the drum out of the washing machine’s cabinet. Turn the drum over and lay it on the floor.
Step 16. Cut the zip-tie holding the overflow tube to the tub support. Use a 1/2 inch socket to take out the four bolts holding the tub support frame to the base of the tub.
Step 17. Carefully lift the tub support off the back of the tub and set it aside. Pull the bearing washer off the back of the tub. Use a screwdriver to take out the screws holding the tub bearing to the back of the tub. Pry the bearing out of the tub with a flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 18. Take your new bearing out of its packaging. Push the bearing into the tub and apply the screw to secure it. Lift the support assembly and lower it onto the outer tub. Apply the bolts on the support assembly to secure it to the tub.
Step 19. Secure the overflow tube back to the tub support using a zip-tie. Rotate the drum assembly and lift it back into the cabinet. Lift each side of tub and hook the four suspension rods to the base.
Step 20. Connect the drain outlet hose back to the port at the bottom of the drum and slide the retaining clamp in place to secure it. Wrap the motor wires around the suspension rods and connect the electrical connectors to the motor assembly.
Step 21. Use your screwdriver to apply the screw holding the motor grounding wire. Connect the air pressure tube back to the port at the side of the drum. Put the washer and split ring back onto the shaft inside the drum.
Step 22. Lift the inner tub and lower it into the outer tub shaft. Use the tub nut wrench and a hammer to tighten the tub bolt to secure the inner drum.
Step 23. Snap the tub cover back onto the drum assembly. Connect the four shock dampening straps back to the tub and apply the screws to secure. Put the agitator coupling back inside the drum and apply the bolt to secure it.
Step 24. Carefully lift the control panel assembly and put it back on top of the washing machine. Put the control housing support brackets back into place and apply all the screws to secure it. Put the rear access cover of the control panel back on and secure it by applying the screws.
Step 25. Slide the top panel of your washing machine back into place and apply the screws at the front to secure it. Connect the air pressure tube to the water level sensor on the control panel. Connect all the electrical connectors back to the control panel.
Step 26. Snap the control panel back into the housing and apply the screws to secure it. Snap the front panel of your washing machine back on.
Step 27. Plug your washing machine back to its power outlet and turn on the water supply. Try running a spin cycle to see if the issue has been fixed.
How To Change Damaged Bearing In Front Loader Washing Machine Bearing
Do the following to replace a faulty bearing in your front loader washing machine…
Step 1. We recommend turning off your washing machine’s water supply and unplugging the power cord before starting this repair in order to prevent electrocution and water leakage.
Step 2. Flip open the drain pump filter access cover. Pull out the emergency drain hose under the panel. Place a container under the drain hose. Pull the hose’s cap off and drain out any water that may be stuck in your washing machine. Once all the water drains out. Put the hose’s cap back on.
Step 3. Use a Philips screwdriver to remove the screw holding the drain pump filter housing. Pull the housing out of your washing machine and set it aside. Use your screwdriver to remove the screw at the bottom of the front panel of your washing machine.
Step 4. Open the door of your washing machine. Insert a flat-blade screwdriver underneath the metal retaining wire around the door boot seal and work the screwdriver around until the wire comes off. Peel the door seal away from the door opening.
Step 5. Reach behind the door boot seal an disconnect the electrical connector of the door lock assembly. Close your washing machine’s door.
Step 6. Use a Philips screwdriver to take out the two screws at the back of your washing machine securing the top panel. Slide the top panel back about an inch and lift it off your washing machine.
Step 7. Pull out the detergent drawer and press the tab inside to release it from the washing machine. Remove the two screws beside the detergent drawer housing with a Philips screwdriver. Take out the screw at the back of the right corner of the control panel.
Step 8. Disconnect all the electrical connectors from the control panel. Detach the control panel from your washing machine and set it aside. Use a Philips screwdriver to take out the six screws at the top of your washing machine’s front panel. Carefully lift the main front panel off the washing machine and set it aside.
Step 9. Use a pair of pliers to press the clamps on the hoses attached to the door boot seal and slide them out of place.
Step 10. Use a screwdriver to loosen the screw on the inner retaining wire holding the door boot seal to the drum. Pull the wire off the door seal.
Step 11. Use your Philips screwdriver to remove the screws holding the rear access panel of your washing machine. Detach the panel from the washing machine and set it aside.
Step 12. Using a 17mm socket wrench take out the bolt holding the rotor to the back of the drum. Carefully pull the rotor out of your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 13. Use your screwdriver to take out the screws holding the wire retainers to the drum. Remove the six bolts holding the drive motor stator with a 10mm socket wrench. Carefully pull the stator off the drum.
Step 14. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the motor stator. Pull the air pressure hose off the air chamber at the side of the tub.
Step 15. Use a Philips screwdriver to take out the two screws holding the air chamber to the drum. Take out the screw holding the drain outlet hose to the bottom of the tub and disconnect the hose (make sure to keep a rag nearby in case water spills out of the hose).
Step 16. Use a 7mm socket wrench to take out the bolt on the clamp holding the bellow to the back of the drum. Detach the bellow from the drum.
Step 17. Use a Philip screwdriver to loosen the screw holding the door boot seal to the heater box. Detach the door seal from the heater box.
Step 18. Push down on the tub a bit and use a screwdriver to take out the screw on the top counter-weight at the front of the drum. Use your 10mm socket wrench to take out the three bolts holding the counter-weight to the drum. Lift the weights off the drum and set them aside.
Step 19. Use the 10mm socket wrench to take out the four bolts holding the bottom counter-weight to the drum. Carefully pull the counter-weight off the drum and set it aside.
Step 20. Press the clamps on the hoses attached to the drain pump assembly and slide them out of place. Disconnect the hoses from the drain pump (keep a rag nearby in case water spills out of the hoses).
Step 21. The heating element is mounted at the bottom of the drum. Disconnect all the electrical connectors attached to the heater (make sure to note where each connector goes).
Step 22. Use a 10mm socket wrench to take out the bolt at the center of the heater and remove the grounding wire from the bolt. Cut the zip-tie holding the heater connectors to the drum.
Step 23. Put a socket on the pointed end of the shock absorber retaining pin. Pull the pins out with a pair of pliers (only pull out the top pins). Pull the shock absorber out of the slot in the tub. Repeat this process with the second front shock absorber and the rear shock absorber.
Step 24. Use a 7mm socket to loosen the bolt holding the clamp securing the vent hose to the top of the drum. Detach he vent hose from the top of the drum. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the little plastic knob out of the vent hole.
Step 25. Disconnect the second hose from the top of your washing machine and pull the funnel off the port.
Step 26. With the help of another person, lift the two suspension springs holding the drum. Carefully lower the drum to the bottom of your washing machine.
Step 27. Carefully lift the drum out of the opening at the front of your washing machine. Turn the front half of the drum to face upwards and suspend the drum above the ground with two supports.
Step 28. Use a 10mm socket wrench to take out the screws holding the two halves of the drum. Lift the front half of the outer tub and set it aside. Lift the inner tub assembly out of the lower half of the outer tub.
Step 29. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry out the bearing seal from the bottom half of the outer drum. Turn the outer drum upside-down and lay it on the supports.
Step 30. Apply some penetrating oil to the space between the inner bearing and the outer bearing. Turn the tub over and use a punch and a hammer to knock the inner bearing out of tub.
Step 31. Turn the tub over again and use the hammer and punch to knock out the outer bearing. Take your new tub bearing kit out of its packaging (the kit should include the inner bearing, outer bearing, and bearing seal).
Step 32. Lift the drum off the supports and lay it on the floor. Place the new outer tub bearing onto the opening and place one of the old bearings on top of it. Use a mallet to tap the old bearing (this will push the new outer bearing into the tub).
Step 33. Place something like a wooden board on the floor. Turn the drum over and place the part with the bearing on the board. Apply some liquid soap to the new inner bearing. Push the new bearing into the opening and tap into place with a mallet.
Step 34. Place the new bearing seal over the inner tub bearing and push it into place. Lift the lower half of the outer drum and lay it back on the supports. Carefully lift the inner tub assembly and lower it into the outer tub.
Step 35. Put the upper half of the outer tub back on and apply the 10mm bolts to secure the two halves of the drum. Rotate the inner drum to make sure it turns freely.
Step 36. Carefully lift the drum assembly and place it back inside your washing machine’s cabinet. Attach the two suspension rods to the tub and with the help of another person, lift the springs and hook them on the cabinet.
Step 37. Put the shock absorbers back into the mounts at the bottom of the tub. Snap in the upper retaining pins to secure them.
Step 38. Connect the electrical connectors back to the heating element. Connect the grounding wire to the heater and apply the 10mm bolt to secure it. Use a zip-tie to hold the wires to the tub.
Step 39. Connect the two hoses back to the drain pump assembly. Slide the retaining clamps in place to secure the hoses.
Step 40. Place the lower counter-weight back onto the front of the drum and apply the four bolts with your 10mm socket wrench to secure it. Put the top counter-weight back on and apply the three bolts. Use a screwdriver to apply the screw on the top counter-weight.
Step 41. Fit the inner retaining band around the door boot seal (this will require some effort). Connect the door boot seal back to the heater housing vent and tighten the retaining clamp by applying the Philips screwdriver. Connect all the hoses to their appropriate ports on the door boot seal and slide the retaining clamps into place to secure them.
Step 42. Connect the drain outlet hose back to the port at the bottom of the tub and put the retaining clamp in place to secure. Put the air chamber back in place at the bottom of the tub and apply the two screws with your Philips screwdriver to secure. Connect the air pressure tube back to the pressure chamber.
Step 43. Connect the electrical connectors back to the drive motor stator. Place the motor stator on the back of the drum and apply the six 10mm bolts to secure it. Put the rotor assembly back onto the motor stator and apply the bolt to secure it.
Step 44. Put the rear panel of your washing machine back on and secure it by applying the screws with your Philips screwdriver to secure it.
Step 45. Put the funnel back into the port at the top of the drum and connect the hose back to the port. Slide the retaining clamp into place to secure the connection.
Step 46. Put the plastic knob back into the opening on the vent port. Reconnect the vent hose to the port and secure it by tightening the screw on the retaining clamp.
Step 47. Connect the electrical connector back to the door lock assembly on the front panel. Put the front panel back on and apply the six screws at the top with your Philips screwdriver to secure it.
Step 48. Connect each electrical connector to its appropriate terminal on the control panel. Snap the control panel back onto the washer cabinet and apply the screw at the back of the right corner to secure it.
Step 49. Put the dispenser assembly back in place and apply the two screws beside the opening on the control panel to secure it. Slide the detergent drawer back into place.
Step 50. Slide your washing machine’s top panel back on and apply the screws at the back with your Philips screwdriver to secure it.
Step 51. Open the door of your washing machine. Fit the door seal back around the door opening. Fit the outer retaining band around the door boot seal (you may need to use a flat-blade screwdriver to make things easier).
Step 52. Close the door of your washing machine. Use your Philips screwdriver to apply the screw at the bottom of the front panel. Put the drain pump filter housing back in and apply the screw to secure it. Snap the filter housing access cover back on.
Step 53. Turn on your washing machine’s water valve and plug the power cord back to the outlet. Try running a spin cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
Note: Please keep in mind that all the steps above will vary greatly depending on the brand of your washing machine.
Washing Machine Rinse Cycle Not Filling Up — How To Fix
If your washing machine isn’t filling, here’s are the issues you should look for…
1. Water Supply Is Turned Off
If your washing machine isn’t filling, the first thing you should check is the water supply. Make sure the water supply valve is fully opened before starting a cycle on your washing machine.
2. Water Inlet Filters Are Blocked
The water inlet filters prevent dirt and debris in the water supply from getting into the washing machine. Here’s how to clean a clogged water inlet filter in your washing machine…
Step 1. Before starting this repair, it is advised that you unplug your washing machine from its power supply and turn off the water valve in order to prevent any chances of electrocution or water leakage.
Step 2. Unscrew the COLD and HOT water supply hoses from the inlet ports at the back of your washing machine (some water may spill out when you do this, so make sure to keep a rag nearby).
Step 3. Use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pull out the little mesh filter in each of the inlet ports. Take the filters to a sink and thoroughly rinse out any dirt that may have clogged it. Once the filters are clean, push them back into the inlet ports.
Step 4. Connect the water supply hoses back to the inlet ports (make sure the connections are properly secured in order to prevent water leaks). Plug your washing machine back to its power supply and turn the water valve back on. Try running a was cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
3. Door Isn’t Locked (Front Loaders Only)
Many front loader washing machine’s won’t start filling unless the door is properly locked. Make sure to firmly shut your washing machine’s door before starting a wash cycle.
If your washing machine’s door isn’t locking you’ll need to replace the lock assembly. Here’s how to do this…
Step 1. Please remember to unplug your washing machine from its power supply before starting this repair in order to prevent any chances of electrocution.
Step 2. Open your washing machine’s door. Insert a flat-blade screwdriver under the metal retaining wire around the door boot seal. Work the screwdriver around around until you can take the whole wire off.
Step 3. Peel the door seal back away from the door opening. Use a Philips screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the door lock to the cabinet. Reach inside the washing machine and pull the door lock out.
Step 4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the door lock and set the lock aside. Take your new door lock assembly out of its packaging. Connect the electrical connector to the new door lock and put the lock inside the washing machine. Apply the screws with your Philips screwdriver to secure.
Step 5. Fit the door boot seal back around the door opening. Run the retaining wire around the door seal (you should use a flat-blade screwdriver to make this easier). Close the door of your washing machine.
Step 6. Plug your washing machine back to is power outlet and try running a wash cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
4. Failed Water Inlet Valve
Here’s how to replace a failed water inlet valve in your washing machine…
How To Replace Damaged Water Inlet Valve In Front Loader Washing Machine
Do the following to replace a faulty water inlet valve in your front loader washing machine…
Step 1. It is advised that you turn off your washing machine’s water supply and unplug the power cord before starting this repair in order to prevent any chances of water leakage or electrocution.
Step 2. Using a Philips screwdriver, take out all the screws at the back of your washing machine holding the main top panel. Slide the top panel backwards about an inch or so, and lift the panel off your washing machine.
Step 3. Use a pair of pliers to unscrew the COLD and HOT water supply hoses from the inlet ports at the back of your washing machine (you should keep a rag nearby in case water spills out of the hoses).
Step 4. Disconnect the solenoid wire connectors from the water inlet valve inside the cabinet (make sure to note where each electrical connector goes). Use a pair of pliers to press the clamp on the hose attached to the valve and slide it out of place.
Step 5. Disconnect the hose from the water inlet valve. Use your Philips screwdriver to remove the screws at the back of your washing machine holding the water inlet valve assembly. Pull the valve assembly out of your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 6. Take your new washing machine water inlet valve assembly out of its packaging. Install the new valve assembly in the cabinet and apply the two screws at the back with a Philips screwdriver to secure.
Step 7. Connect the hose to the port on the new water inlet valve and slide the retaining clamp in place to secure it. Connect each solenoid wire connector to its appropriate terminal on the new water inlet valve.
Step 8. Snap your washing machine’s top panel back into place and apply the screws at the back with your Philips screwdriver to secure it. Connect the HOT and COLD water supply lines back to the inlet ports at the back of your washing machine (make sure to secure the connections properly in order to prevent water leaks).
Step 9. Plug your washing machine back to its power supply and turn the water valve back on. Try running a wash cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
How To Replace Damaged Water Inlet Valve In Top Loader Washing Machine
Here’s how to change a faulty water inlet valve in your top loader washing machine…
Step 1. Please ensure that you unplug your washing machine from its power supply and turn off the water valve before starting this repair in order to prevent electrocution or water leakage.
Step 2. Unscrew the two water supply hoses from the inlet ports at the back of your washing machine (make sure to keep a rag nearby in case water spills out of the hoses).
Step 3. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the screws at the back of your washing machine holding the rear cover of the control panel. Detach the control panel from the housing and lay it on the lid of your washing machine.
Step 4. Disconnect the solenoid wire connectors of the old water inlet valve assembly (be sure to note where each connector goes). Use a pair of pliers to press the clamp on the hose attached to the water inlet valve and slide the clamp out of place.
Step 5. Disconnect the hose from the washing machine. Use your Philips screwdriver to remove the mounting screws holding the control panel to your washing machine. Pull the water inlet valve assembly out of your washing machine and set it aside.
Step 6. Take your new washing machine water inlet valve assembly out of its packaging. Install the new valve assembly in your washing machine and apply the screws to secure it to the base.
Step 7. Connect each of the electrical connectors to its appropriate terminal on the new water inlet valve assembly. Attach the hose to the new water inlet valve and slide the retaining clamp in place to secure it.
Step 8. Lift the control panel and snap it back in place. Apply the screws at the back of your washing machine with a Philips screwdriver to secure it.
Step 9. Connect the water supply hoses back to the inlet ports at the back of your washing machine (in order to prevent water leaks, make sure to properly secure the connections). Plug your washing machine back to its power supply and turn on the water supply. Try running a wash cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
5. Failed Water Level Sensor
Follow the steps below to replace a fault water level sensor in your washing machine…
How To Replace A Damaged Water Level Sensor In A Top Loader Washing Machine
Do the following to replace a damaged water level sensor in your top loader washing machine…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, it is strongly advised that you unplug your washing machine from its power supply before starting this repair.
Step 2. Take out the screws holding the control panel rear access cover with a Philips screwdriver. Detach the cover and set it aside. Detach the control panel from the base and lay it on the lid of your washing machine.
Step 3. Disconnect the electrical connector attached to the water pressure switch. Use your Philips screwdriver to take out the screws holding the main rear panel of your washing machine. Lift the panel up a bit and detach it from your washing machine.
Step 4. Disconnect the air pressure tube from the little port at the side of the tub. Untwist the retainer holding the air pressure tub. Lift the control panel and snap it back into place.
Step 5. Open the lid of your washing machine. Insert a putty knife under the main top panel of your washing machine to release the retaining clips. Lift the main top panel and support it.
Step 6. Cut the tape holding the air pressure tube to the wire connector. Pull the water level sensor and tube out of the washing machine and set it aside.
Step 7. Take your new washing machine water level sensor out of its packaging. Insert the tube of the new level sensor through the opening on the main top panel. Connect the tube to the little port at the side of the drum and use the retainer to secure it.
Step 8. Secure the new tube to the wires using a zip-tie. Lower your washing machine’s main top panel and snap it into place. Close the lid of your washing machine.
Step 9 Detach the control panel from the housing again and lay it on your washing machine’s lid. Snap the new water level sensor into place on the control base. Attach the electrical connector to the new sensor.
Step 10. Lift the control panel and snap it back into place. Put the rear access cover back on and apply the screws with your Philips screwdriver to secure it. Snap the main rear panel of your washing machine back into place and secure it by applying the screws.
Step 11. Plug your washing machine back to its power outlet and try running a wash cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
How To Replace A Damaged Water Level Sensor In A Front Loader Washing Machine
Do the following to replace a damaged water level sensor in your front loader washing machine…
Step 1. Unplug your washing machine’s power cord before starting this repair in order to prevent any chances of electrocution.
Step 2. Use a Philips screwdriver to remove the screws at the back of your washing machine holding the top panel. Slide the top panel backwards about an inch or so, and lift it off the washing machine.
Step 3. Disconnect the wire harness attached to the water level sensor. Use your Philips screwdriver to remove the screw holding the water level sensor to the frame. Disconnect the hose from the sensor and set it aside.
Step 4. Take your new washing machine water level sensor out of its packaging. Connect the tube to the new sensor. Install the new sensor in your washing machine and apply the mounting screw with your Philips screwdriver to secure it. Connect the electrical connector to the new sensor.
Step 5. Slide your washing machine’s main top panel back on and apply the screws at the back to secure it. Plug your washing machine back to its power outlet and try running a wash cycle to ensure that the issue has been resolved.
6. Failed Control Board
Here’s what you’ll need to do to replace a faulty control board in your washing machine…
How To Change A Damaged Control Board In A Top Loader Washing Machine
Do the following to replace a damaged control board in your top loader washing machine…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, please ensure that you unplug your washing machine’s power cord from the power outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Push a small screwdriver into the holes at the back of the control housing to release the control panel. Detach the control panel from the housing and lay it on the lid of your washing machine.
Step 3. Disconnect all the electrical connectors attached to the control board (make sure you note where each connector goes before disconnecting). Use your Philips screwdriver to remove the screws holding the control board to the panel. Pull the board off the panel and set it aside.
Step 4. Take your new control board out of its packaging. Position the new board on the control panel and apply all the screws with your Philips screwdriver to secure it.
Step 5. Connect each electrical connector to its appropriate terminal on the new control board. Lift the control panel and snap it back in place on the control housing. Plug your washing machine back to its power outlet and try running a wash cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.
How To Change A Damaged Control Board In A Front Loader Washing Machine
Here’s how to replace a damaged control board in your front loader washing machine…
Step 1. In order to prevent electrocution, we recommend unplugging your washing machine from its power supply before starting this repair.
Step 2. Use your Philips screwdriver to take out the screws at the back of your washing machine holding the top panel. Slide the top panel backwards a few inches and lift it off your washing machine.
Step 3. Pull out the detergent drawer and press the tab inside to take it out of the washing machine completely. Use your screwdriver to remove the screws beside the detergent drawer housing. Take out the screws on each top corner of the control panel.
Step 4. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to release the tabs on the control panel. Detach the control panel from your washing machine. Disconnect all the electrical connectors from the control board (be sure to note where each connector goes before disconnecting anything).
Step 5. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the screws holding the control board to the control panel. Detach the control board from the control panel and set the panel aside.
Step 6. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the two halves of the control board apart. Set the front half of the control board aside. Use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to release the control board wires from the retainers on the lower half of the control board.
Step 7. Snap the two halves of the control board back together. Take your new control board assembly out of its packaging. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry all the buttons off the old control board and transfer them to the to the new one.
Step 8. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry off the screen cover on the old control board. Pull the indicator screen off the old control board and snap it into the new one. Snap the screen cover into the new control board.
Step 9. Snap all the wire retainers into the openings on the new control board. Connect each electrical connector to its corresponding terminal on the new control board.
Step 10. Place the new control board in the control panel and apply the screws with your Philips screwdriver to secure it. Snap the control panel assembly back onto the front of your washing machine. Apply the screws on each top corner to secure it.
Step 11. Use your screwdriver to apply the screws beside the detergent drawer housing. Slide the soap drawer back in. Slide the top panel of your washing machine back on and secure it by applying the screws at the back with your Philips screwdriver.
Step 12. Plug your washing machine’s power cord back to the power supply and try running a wash cycle to make sure everything is working properly.
Washing Machine Door Locked After Cycle — Fixed
If your washing machine door stays locked after a cycle, run some fishing line around the door opening and pull the to ends of the string firmly together. This will force the door lock to open manually. If your washing machine doesn’t lock any more, you’ll need to replace the door lock.
