Admiral Washing Machine Cycles [Issues & Solutions]

If you are experiencing issues with your Admiral washing machine cycles, you’ve come to the right place. This detailed guide will explain the causes of these issues and give you steps on how to fix them. You’ll require some tools and a bit of patience. So, without wasting any more time, let’s get right to it…

Admiral Washing Machine Stops Mid-Cycle — Solved

Here are the issues to look for if your Admiral washing machine stops mid-cycle…

1. Lid Isn’t Properly Locked

For safety reasons, your washing machine may stop mid-cycle if the lid isn’t locked. If your washing machine’s lid isn’t locking, you’ll need to replace the lid lock. Here’s how to do this…

Step 1. in order to prevent any chances of electrocution, ensure that you unplug your washing machine’s power cord from the outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. Use a Philips screwdriver to take out the screws at the bottom of the control panel. Lift the control panel out of the way.

Step 3. Disconnect the electrical connector for the lid switch. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to snap out the two spring clips holding the cabinet to the rear panel. Pull the cabinet forwards and detach it from the machine.

Step 4. Set the cabinet on the floor face-down. Use a socket wrench to take out the bolt holding the grounding wire to the cabinet. Take out the two mounting screws holding the lid switch to the cabinet.

Step 5. Release the lid switch wires from the cabinet using a flat-blade screwdriver. Use a pair of pliers to release the lid switch from the cabinet.

Step 6. Take your new washing machine lid switch out of its packaging. Snap the new lid switch into the cabinet and apply the mounting screws to secure it. Secure the lid switch wires in the retainers on the cabinet.

Step 7. Secure the lid switch grounding wire to the cabinet with the mounting bolt. Lift the cabinet and carefully line it up with the washer assembly. Snap the two clamps on the rear panel into the holes at the top off the cabinet.

Step 8. Connect the electrical connector to the top of the cabinet. Lower the control panel and snap it into place. Apply the two screws with your Philips screwdriver to secure it. Plug the power cord back into the power supply and try running a cycle to see if the problem has been fixed.

2. Failed Water Inlet Valve

If you are running a cycle that requires water, the water inlet valve may be the reason your washer stops mid-cycle. Here’s how to replace a water inlet valve in your Admiral washing machine…

Step 1. Shut off your washing machine’s water supply valve and unplug the power cord from the outlet before starting this repair in order to prevent electrocution or water leakage.

Step 2. Unscrew the COLD and HOT water supply hoses from the ports at the back of your washing machine (keep a rag nearby to clean up any water leaks). Insert a putty knife under your washer’s control panel to release the two retaining clips. Detach the panel from the base and lay it on the lid of the machine.

Step 3. Disconnect the solenoid wires connected to the water inlet valve (make sure you take note of where each connector goes). Use your screwdriver to take out the screws holding the inlet valve mounting plate to the top panel.

Step 4. Press the clamp on the hose attached to the water inlet valve assembly and slide the clamp out of place. Disconnect the hose from the inlet valve (some water may spill). Set the old valve assembly aside and take the new valve out of its packaging.

Step 5. Connect the hose to the new water inlet valve. Slide the retaining clamp into place with your pliers to secure it.

Step 6. Apply the mounting screws to secure the new water inlet valve assembly to the top panel. Connect each solenoid wire to its appropriate terminal on the new water inlet valve.

Step 7. Lift the control panel and snap it back into place. Connect the water supply lines back to the ports on your washing machine (make sure to secure the connections properly so water doesn’t leak out).

Step 8. Turn on the water supply and plug the power cord back into the outlet. Try running a cycle to make sure the issue has been fixed.

3. Damaged Timer

Another thing that could be at fault if your Admiral washing machine stops mid-cycle is the timer. Here’s how to replace a faulty timer in your washing machine…

Step 1. Unplug your washing machine’s power cord from the outlet and turn the water supply valve off before starting this repair in order to prevent any chances of water leakage or electrocution.

Step 2. Use a Philips screwdriver to take out the two screws at the bottom of the control panel. Lift the control panel over the rear panel.

Step 3. Insert a pair of needle-nosed pliers into the hole at the back of the timer and grab the little pin. Lift the control panel slightly and pull the timer knob and dial off.

Step 4. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to help disconnect the two electrical connectors from the timer. Release the plastic tab holding the timer to the control panel with a flat-blade screwdriver. Pull the timer off and set it aside.

Step 5. Take your new washing machine timer out of its packaging. Mount the new timer assembly onto the control panel and snap it into place. Connect the two electrical connectors to the new timer.

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Step 6. Put the timer knob dial on the shaft. Pull the timer knob shaft out a bit and push the little pin in the shaft down with a small screwdriver. Put the knob onto the shaft.

Step 7. Snap the control panel back onto the cabinet and use your Philips screwdriver to apply the screws at the bottom.

Step 8. Turn your washing machine’s water supply valve back on and plug the power cord back into the outlet. Try running a wash cycle to make sure the issue has been fixed.

4. Failed Motor

Your washing machine will stop mid-cycle if the drive motor fails. Here’s what you’ll need to do to replace a failed motor in your Admiral washing machine…

Step 1. In order to prevent any water leaks or electrocution, ensure that you unplug your washing machine’s power cord from the outlet and turn the water supply valve off before starting this repair.

Step 2. Use a pair of pliers to help disconnect the two water supply hoses from the ports at the back of your washing machine (keep a rag nearby to clean any water leaks). Put some tape over your washing machine’s lid to secure it.

Step 3. Carefully tilt your washing machine forwards and lay it on the floor. Use your screwdriver to take out the screws at the bottom of your washing machine holding the drive belt cover. Pull the cover off and set it aside.

Step 4. Slowly rotate the transmission pulley and pull the drive belt off. Disconnect the electrical connector from the drive motor.

Step 5. Use your socket wrench to take out the bolts holding the motor to the base of your washing machine. Pull the motor off the machine and set it aside.

Step 6. Take your new washing machine drive motor out of its packaging. Install the new motor at the base of your washing machine and apply the mounting bolts to secure it. Connect the electrical connector to the new motor.

Step 7. Loop the drive belt around the motor pulley and the transmission pulley (the grooved part of the belt should face downwards). Put the drive belt cover back on. And apply the screws to secure it.

Step 8. Lift your washing machine upright and peel the tape off the lid. Connect the two water supply hoses back to the ports at the back of your washing machine (secure the connections properly so water doesn’t leak).

Step 9. Turn your washing machine’s water supply valve back on and plug the power cord into the outlet. Try running a wash cycle to make sure everything is working properly.

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Admiral Washing Machine Spin Cycle Not Working — Solution

If the spin cycle in your Admiral washing machine isn’t working, here are some issues to look for…

1. Broken Drive Belt

Here’s what you’ll need to do to replace a broken drive belt in your Admiral washing machine…

Step 1. Unplug your washing machine from its power outlet and turn the water supply valve off before starting this repair in order to prevent any chances of water leakage and electrocution.

Step 2. Unscrew the COLD and HOT water supply hoses from the ports at the back of your washing machine (we recommend keeping a rag nearby to clean any water leakage).

Step 3. Carefully tilt your washing machine forwards and lay it on the floor. Use your screwdriver to take out the screws holding the drive belt cover. Pull the cover off and set it aside. Take the broken drive belt off the machine and set it aside.

Step 4. Take your new washing machine drive belt out of its packaging. Loop the new drive belt around the motor pulley and transmission shaft (ensure that the grooved side of the belt faces inwards).

Step 5. Put the belt cover back on and apply the bolts to secure it. Lift your washing machine upright.

Step 6. Connect the water supply hoses back to the ports on your washing machine (make sure to secure the hoses properly to avoid water leaks). Plug your washing machine’s power cord into the outlet and turn the water supply valve back on. Try running a spin cycle to make sure the issue has been fixed.

2. Damaged Motor Coupling

Another thing that could prevent your washing machine from spinning is a damaged motor coupling. Here’s how to replace the coupling in your Admiral washing machine.

Step 1. Unplug your washing machine’s power cord from the outlet before starting this repair in order to prevent electrocution.

Step 2. Use your screwdriver to take out the screws at the bottom of the control panel. Lift the control panel and let it hang over the rear panel.

Step 3. Use a screwdriver to pry out the metal clamps holding the rear panel to the cabinet. Pull the cabinet off and set it aside.

Step 4. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the two plastic tabs holding the pump assembly to the motor shaft. Pull the pump assembly off and set it aside.

Step 5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the motor assembly. Take out the two bolts on the motor retaining clips. Pry the bottom clip off with a flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 6. Support the motor assembly with your hand and pry the top retaining clip off with your flat-blade screwdriver. Pull the motor out of your washing machine.

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Step 7. Use your flat-blade screwdriver to pry the three parts of the drive coupling (this will require a bit of force).

Step 8. Take your new drive coupling assembly out of its packaging. Push one coupling cog onto the drive shaft of the gear case (tap it in with a screwdriver if needed).

Step 9. Slide the new coupling isolator onto the cog. Push the other cog onto the motor shaft as far as possible.

Step 10. Slide the motor assembly into place at the bottom of the tub. Secure the motor by reinstalling the retaining clips and screws. Connect the electrical connector back to the drive motor.

Step 11. Slide the drain pump onto the motor shaft and secure it by installing the two pump clips. Snap the cabinet onto the washer assembly. Secure the rear panel to the cabinet by pushing the spring clips into place with a screwdriver.

Step 12. Place the control panel back onto the base and apply the two screws to secure it. Plug your washing machine’s power cord back into the outlet and try running a spin cycle to make sure the issue has been fixed.

3. Damaged Clutch

Here are the steps you’ll need to take to replace a damaged clutch in your Admiral washing machine…

Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of water leakage or electrocution, ensure that you unplug your washing machine’s power cord and turn the water supply valve off before starting this repair.

Step 2. Use a pair of pliers to unscrew the two water supply hoses from the ports at the back of your washing machine (make sure you have a rag handy to clean any water leaks).

Step 3. Press the clamp on the drain hose connected to the back of your washing machine and slid it out of place. Disconnect the drain hose from your washing machine.

Step 4. Pry the agitator cap off with a flat-blade screwdriver. Take out the bolt holding the agitator with a 7/16 inch socket wrench. Pull the agitator out of your washing machine and set it aside.

Step 5. Carefully tilt your washing machine backwards and lay it on the floor. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry off the two clips holding the pump to the motor shaft. Pull the pump off and set it aside.

Step 6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the drive motor. Use your screwdriver to release the motor wire from the retainer.

Step 7. Use your socket wrench to take out the bolts holding the gear case to the mounting base. Pull the gear case and motor assembly out of your washing machine and set it aside. Pull the washer off the shaft.

Step 8. Pull out the clutch’s support ring with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Pry the retaining ring out with a flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 9. Slide the clutch off the shaft and set it aside. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the c-ring off the brake cam. Pull the break cam off and set it aside.

Step 10. Take your new clutch assembly out of its packaging. Insert the isolator ring into the new clutch. Place the new brake cam on the drive tube and snap the c-ring onto the break cam.

Step 11. Slide the new clutch onto the gear case shaft. Put the retainer ring and support ring in place to secure the clutch.

Step 12. Put the washer onto the shaft. Slide the gear case and motor assembly back into place and apply the bolts to secure it. Connect the electrical connector to the motor assembly.

Step 13. Slide the drain pump onto the motor shaft and secure it with the retaining clips. Lift your washing machine upright.

Step 14. Put the agitator inside your washing machine and apply the bolt to secure it. Put the agitator cap back on.

Step 15. Connect the drain hose back to the port at the back of your washing machine. Slide the retaining clamp into place to secure the hose.

Step 16. Connect the two water supply hoses back to the inlet ports at the back of your washing machine (ensure that you secure the hoses properly so water doesn’t leak out).

Step 17. Plug your washing machine’s power cord back into the outlet and turn the water supply valve back on. Try running a spin cycle to make sure everything is working properly.

4. Damaged Tub Bearing

The tub bearing in your washing machine ensures that the drum spins smoothly. If this part gets damaged, your washing machine may be prevented from spinning. Please do not attempt to replace this part unless you are confident in your repair skills. Here’s how to replace your Admiral washing machine’s tub bearing…

Step 1. Prevent any chances of electrocution and water leakage by turning your washing machine’s water supply valve on and unplugging the power cord from the outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. Pull your washing machine’s drain hose out of your home drain. Unscrew the two water supply hoses from the ports at the back of your washing machine (make sure to keep a rag nearby to clean up any water leaks).

Step 3. Get someone to help you tilt the washing machine backwards. Pull off the drive belt from the pulleys at the bottom of the cabinet. Set your washing machine upright

Step 4. Insert a tool such as a putty knife under the main top panel to release the two retaining clips. Lift the main top panel and support it.

Step 5. Use a 5/16 inch socket wrench to take out the bolts holding the front panel to the cabinet. Pull the panel off your washing machine and set it aside.

Step 6. Unhook the four front suspension springs holding the tub to the mounting base (this may require a bit of effort).

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Step 7. Go to the back of your washing machine. Use a pair of pliers to press the clamp on the drain hose connected to the back of the washing machine and slide the clamp out of place. Pull the hose off the machine (some water will spill out).

Step 8. Use your screwdriver to take out the screws holding the rear access panel. Pull the panel off and set it aside. Unhook the two rear suspension springs at the base of the tub.

Step 9. Use a pair of pliers to press the clamp on the outlet hose connected to the bottom of the tub and slide it out of place. Pull the hose off tub (some water will spill out).

Step 10. Pull the air pressure tube off the port at the side of the tub. Carefully lift the tub assembly upwards and pull it through the front of the cabinet.

Step 11. Turn the tub assembly upside-down and set it on the floor. Pry the dust cap off the pulley at the bottom of the tub.

Step 12. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the e-ring holding pulley and cam assembly to the transmission’s lower shaft. Pry the spacer washer off.

Step 13. Lift the pulley assembly off the shaft and set it aside. Pull off the spring washer, flat washer, and the bearing underneath it (not to be confused with tub bearing). Use your flat-blade screwdriver to pry out the final flat-washer.

Step 14. Use a 1/2 inch socket wrench to take out the bolts holding the damper base to the support legs.

Step 15. There is a spring under the brake stator with a lot of pressure. To safely take the brake stator off, use your socket wrench to take out three of the four screws on the stator.

Step 16. Put three longer screws of the same size in place of the three short screws and tighten them. Use your socket wrench to take out the fourth and last short screw.

Step 17. Unscrew the three long bolts by giving each a few turns at a time. Once the tension on the spring has been released, take the three screws out completely and set them aside.

Step 18. Lift the brake rotor and stator off the shaft and set them aside. Pull the spring and spring cap off and set them aside.

Step 19. Use your 1/2 inch socket wrench to take out the three bolts holding the damper base to the bearing. Lift the damper off the assembly and set it aside.

Step 20. Place a 3/4 inch pipe nipple with a cap over the transmission housing to protect it. Place a polar cap over the pipe nipple and place the jaws directly underneath the bearing.

Step 21. Use a wrench to tighten the bolt on the polar cap arm (this will force the bearing up the shaft). Set the polar cap aside and pull the bearing off the shaft.

Step 22. Take your new washing machine bearing out of its packaging. Apply a thin coat of liquid soap to the shaft.

Step 23. Slide the near bearing onto the shaft and use a mallet and wooden block to carefully tap it into place as far as possible (ensure that you only tap the metal part of the bearing).

Step 24. Line the damper up with the tabs on the new bearing. Apply the three bolts to secure the damper to the bearing. Secure the damper base to the support legs by applying the six bolts with your socket wrench.

Step 25. Put the spring cap onto the shaft and put the spring on the spring cap. Push the brake rotor onto the transmission and put the stator over the rotor. Line up the holes on the stator with the holes on the damper base.

Step 26. Put the three long screws into three of the holes and tighten them with your socket wrench. Put the short screw in and tighten it. Take out the three long screws and replace them with the short ones (tighten them properly).

Step 27. Put all the washers back in place on the transmission shaft. Fit the cam onto the transmission pulley and place the pulley on the shaft. Push the pulley downwards and place the spacer washer and the e-ring on the shaft to secure the pulley.

Step 28. Put the dust cap onto the drive pulley. Turn the tub assembly over and carefully guide into the cabinet. Line up the pulley with the opening at the bottom of the cabinet.

Step 29. Hook the four suspension springs to the support frame of the tub assembly. Go to the back of your washing machine and connect the outlet hose back to the port at the bottom of the tub. Slide the retaining clamp in place to secure it. Hook up the remaining two springs to the back of the tub assembly.

Step 30. Put the rear access panel onto the washing machine and use your screwdriver to apply all the screws. Connect the drain hose to the port at the back of your washing machine and slide the retaining clamp in place to secure it.

Step 31. Connect the air pressure tube back to the port at the side of the tub. Line up the front panel with the cabinet and snap it into place. Apply the two bolts at the top to secure the front panel.

Step 32. Lower the top panel and snap it into the cabinet. Tilt your washing machine backwards a bit. Fit the drive belt back around the motor pulley, transmission pulley, and idler pulley.

Step 33. Connect the inlet hoses back to the ports on your washing machine (make sure to secure them properly so there’s no chances of water leakage). Insert the drain hose back into your home drain. Plug the power cord back into the outlet and turn the water valve on. Try running a spin cycle to ensure everything works properly.