If your KitchenAid washing machine is making noise, you’ve come to the right place. In this detailed article, we’ll list the causes of this issue and steps you can take to fix them…
Table of Contents
KitchenAid Washing Machine Is Making Noise When Spinning — How To Fix
If your KitchenAid washing machine is making noise during spin cycles, the following are issues to look for…
1. Damaged Drum Weights (Front Loaders)
Front loaders have weights mounted on the drum to help balance them. If your KitchenAid washing machine is making noise, it could be that the weights are damaged. Follow the steps below to replace the weights…
Rear Weight
Replace the rear weight on your front loader washing machine drum by following the steps below…
Step 1. Ensure that your washing machine is disconnected from the power outlet before starting this repair in order to avoid electrocution.
Step 2. Using a Torx-20 screwdriver, take out the bolts securing the rear access panel. Lift the panel off the cabinet, then set it aside.
Step 3. Using a 13mm socket wrench, loosen the bolts securing the rear weight to the tub. Lift the weight off the drum and set it aside.
Step 4. Unpack your new washing machine weight, then mount it on the drum. Secure the weight by tightening the 13mm bolt.
Step 5. Snap the rear access panel back onto the cabinet, then secure it by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 6. Plug your washing machine’s power cord into the outlet, then try running a spin cycle to ensure that the noise has stopped.
Front Weights
Take the following steps to replace the front weights on your washing machine’s drum…
Step 1. Disconnect your washing machine from the power outlet in order to avoid any chances of electrocution.
Step 2. Loosen the bolts at the back of the machine securing the top panel using a Torx screwdriver. Pull the panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the cabinet.
Step 3. Slide the soap tray out of the dispenser. Release the tray from the housing by pressing the tab inside.
Step 4. Using your Torx screwdriver, take out the bolts next to the dispenser opening on the control panel. Pry the control panel off the mounting bracket, then set it on top of the cabinet.
Step 5. Use your screwdriver to take out the nuts securing the lower front access panel. Pry the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 6. Open the door of your washing machine. Take out the bolts securing the door lock to the front panel.
Step 7. Wedge a flat-blade screwdriver underneath the retaining wire around the door seal. Work the screwdriver around until the wire pops off (take care not to puncture the seal).
Step 8. Pry the door seal off the front panel. Loosen the bolts at the top and bottom of the main front panel. Lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 9. Using a 13mm socket wrench, take out the bolts securing the lower and upper weights to the front of the drum.
Step 10. Lift each weight off the drum carefully, then set them aside. Prepare the new washing machine drum weights for installation by unpacking them.
Step 11. Mount the new weights at the front of the drum, then secure them by tightening the 13mm bolts.
Step 12. Remount the main front panel on the cabinet, then use your Torx screwdriver to apply the bolts at the top and bottom.
Step 13. Open the door of your washing machine. Reach into the cabinet behind the front panel, then push the door lock assembly back into place.
Step 14. Secure the door lock to the front panel by tightening the Torx screws. Fit the door boot seal around the front panel.
Step 15. Fit the retaining band around the door boot seal using your flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 16. Snap the lower front access panel back onto the cabinet, then tighten the Torx screws.
Step 17. Snap the control panel onto the mounting bracket, then apply the bolts next to the dispenser opening.
Step 18. Push the soap tray into the dispenser. Mount the top panel on the cabinet, then slide it forwards. Apply the nuts at the back to secure the top panel.
Step 19. Plug your washing machine’s power cord into the outlet, then try running a spin cycle to ensure that the issue has been fixed.
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2. Damaged Shock Absorbers (Front Loaders)
The shock absorbers prevent the tub from shaking too much during cycles. If your KitchenAid washing machine is making noise when spinning, it could be that the shock absorbers are damaged. Follow the steps below to test and replace this part…
Rear Shock Absorbers
Follow the steps below to replace the rear shock absorber in your front loader KitchenAid washing machine…
Step 1. Disconnect your washing machine’s power cord from the outlet before starting this repair in order to avoid electrocution.
Step 2. Loosen the bolts securing the rear panel to the cabinet using a Torx-20 screwdriver. Lift the panel off the machine, then set it aside.
Step 3. Use your Torx screwdriver to take out the bolts securing the lower support brace to the back of the cabinet. Take the brace off and set it aside.
Step 4. Use pliers to rotate the top of one of the rear shock absorbers. Pull the shock absorber out from the mount at the bottom of the tub. Take out the lower shock mount in the same way.
Step 5. Pull the shock absorber out of the cabinet. Try pulling the shock absorber apart and pushing it inwards. If you feel little or no resistance in the shock, it is damaged and needs to be replaced.
Step 6. Unpack your new washing machine shock absorber. Push the upper and lower parts of the shock absorber into the mounts on the cabinet and bottom of the tub.
Step 7. Rotate the upper and lower parts of the shock absorber to secure. Repeat the steps above to test and replace the second rear shock absorber.
Step 8. Remount the lower rear brace on the cabinet, then secure it by applying the Torx screws.
Step 9. Mount the rear access panel onto the cabinet, then apply the bolts. Plug your washing machine back into the power outlet, then try running a spin cycle to ensure that the issue has been fixed.
Front Shock Absorbers
Take the following steps to replace the front shock absorbers in your KitchenAid washing machine…
Step 1. Disconnect your appliance from the power outlet before starting this repair in order to prevent any chances of electrocution.
Step 2. Using a Torx screwdriver, loosen the bolts at the back of the machine securing the top panel. Slide the panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the cabinet.
Step 3. Slide the soap tray out of the dispenser. Press the little tab inside the tray to completely release it from the housing.
Step 4. Using your Torx screwdriver, take out the bolt on the control panel next to the dispenser opening. Pry the panel off the mounting bracket, then set it on top of the cabinet.
Step 5. Loosen the bolts securing the lower front access panel using your Torx screwdriver. Lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 6. Open the door of the machine. Use your screwdriver to take out the bolts holding the door switch to the front panel.
Step 7. Wedge a flat-blade screwdriver underneath the metal wire around the door boot seal. Carefully work the screwdriver around until the wire pops off (ensure that you do not damage the seal).
Step 8. Peel the door seal off the front panel. Using your screwdriver, take out the bolts at the bottom and top of the main front panel. Lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 9. Use a pair of pliers to grab the upper mount of the shock absorber you want to replace. Rotate the top of the shock absorber, then detach it from the bottom of the tub. Repeat this process with the lower part of the shock absorber.
Step 10. Pull the shock absorber out of the cabinet. Try pulling the shock absorber apart and pushing it inwards. If you feel little or no resistance from the shock absorber, it is damaged and needs to be replaced.
Step 11. Prepare your new shock absorber for installation by unpacking it. Push the upper and lower parts of the shock absorber into the mounts at the bottom of the tub, and on the cabinet floor.
Step 12. Secure the new shock absorber by rotating the lower and upper sections using pliers. Repeat the steps above to replace the second front shock absorber.
Step 13. Lift the main front panel, then snap it onto the cabinet. Use your Torx screwdriver to apply the bolts at the top and bottom of the panel.
Step 14. Snap the lower front access panel onto the cabinet, then apply the Torx screws to secure it.
Step 15. Snap the control panel onto the mounting bracket, then tighten the bolt next to the dispenser opening.
Step 16. Push the soap tray back into the dispenser. Mount the top panel on the cabinet, then push it forwards. Secure the panel by applying the Torx screws.
Step 17. Open the door of your washing machine. Reach in behind the front panel, then push the door lock assembly back into place. Secure the door lock by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 18. Fit the door boot seal around the door opening. Using your flat-blade screwdriver, fit the retaining band around the door seal.
Step 19. Plug your washing machine’s power cord into the outlet, then try running a cycle to ensure that the noise has stopped.
3. Damaged Motor Bearing
Your washing machine drive motor has a bearing which helps the belt spin properly. If your KitchenAid washing machine is making noise, it could be that the bearing has gone bad. Follow the steps below to test this part…
Front Loaders
Test the motor bearing in your front loader KitchenAid washing machine by following the steps below…
Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, it is advised that you disconnect your washing machine from the power outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Using a Torx-20 screwdriver, take out the bolts securing the rear access panel to the cabinet. Lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 3. Disconnect the wires attached to the drive motor at the bottom of the tub. Unhook the drive belt from the motor pulley and drive pulley.
Step 4. Loosen the bolts securing the drive motor to the bottom of the tub using a 13mm socket wrench. Lift the motor off the tub, then pull it out of the cabinet.
Step 5. Try turning the drive motor shaft by hand. If you hear a lot of noise from the motor when turning the shaft, it indicates that the bearings have gone bad. To fix this issue, you’ll need to replace the entire motor.
Step 6. With your new drive motor acquired, mount it at the bottom of the tub, then use your 13mm socket wrench to tighten the bolts.
Step 7. Plug each wire harness into its appropriate terminal on the motor. Loop the belt around the motor pulley and drive pulley (ensure that the grooved side of the belt is turned inwards).
Step 8. Lift the rear panel, then remount it on the cabinet. Secure the rear panel by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 9. Plug your washing machine’s power cord into the electrical outlet. To ensure that the issue has been fixed, try running a spin cycle.
Top Loaders
Take the following steps to inspect the motor bearing in your top loader KitchenAid washing machine…
Step 1. Turn your washing machine’s water supply taps off and disconnect the power cord from the outlet before starting this repair in order to prevent leakage and electrocution.
Step 2. Pull your washing machine’s drain hose out of the standpipe. Using pliers if needed, disconnect the COLD and HOT water supply hoses from the ports at the back of the machine (ensure that you keep a rag nearby to clean any leaks).
Step 3. Put some tape on your washer’s lid to help secure it. With someone assisting you, carefully tip your washing machine forwards and set it on the floor.
Step 4. Loosen the bolts securing the belt guard to the bottom of the machine using a 5/16 inch nut-driver). Take the belt guard off the machine and set it aside.
Step 5. Unhook the drive belt from the motor pulley and transmission pulley. Detach the wire harness connected to the drive motor.
Step 6. Loosen the bolts securing the drive motor to the transmission plate using a 13mm socket wrench. Lift the drive motor off the transmission plate.
Step 7. Try turning the motor shaft by hand. If the motor makes a grinding or squeaking noise when turning the shaft, it indicates that the bearing has gone bad. To fix this issue, you’ll need to but a new drive motor.
Step 8. Once you’ve gotten your new drive motor, mount it on the transmission plate, then apply the bolts to secure it.
Step 9. Plug the wire harnesses into the drive motor. With the grooved side turned inwards, loop the drive belt around the transmission pulley and motor pulley.
Step 10. Put the belt guard back in place, then tighten the bolts to secure it. Carefully lift your washing machine back onto its feet, then peel the tape off the lid.
Step 11. Reinsert the drain hose into the standpipe. Reconnect the HOT and COLD water supply hoses to the corresponding ports on the cabinet.
Step 12. Plug your washing machine’s power cord back into the outlet, then turn the water supply taps back on. Ensure that the noise has stopped by running a spin cycle.
Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will be a bit different depending on the model of your washing machine.
Dryers
To test the drive motor bearing in your KitchenAid dryer, follow the steps below…
Step 1. Prevent any chances of electrocution by disconnecting your dryer from the outlet before starting this repair.
Step 2. Use a 1/4 inch nut-driver or a Torx-20 screwdriver to take out the bolts at the back of the machine securing the top panel. Pull the panel backwards about an inch or so, then lift it off.
Step 3. Using your nut-driver, take out the bolts at the top of the control panel. Disconnect the control panel’s wire harness from the control board.
Step 4. Pry the control panel off the mounting bracket, then set it aside. Take out the bolts securing the control board’s mounting bracket to the front of the cabinet. Move the bracket out of place and support it.
Step 5. Disconnect the door switch wire harness from the control board. With someone assisting you, tip your washing machine backwards carefully, then place a support underneath.
Step 6. Loosen the bolts at the bottom of the front panel. Take out the support from underneath the machine, then set the dryer on its feet.
Step 7. Open the dryer’s door, then loosen the bolts at the bottom of the door opening. Use your nut-driver to take out the bolts at the top of the front panel. Lift the front panel off the cabinet carefully, then set it aside.
Step 8. Take out the nuts securing the control panel’s mounting bracket to the front of the machine. Lift the bracket off and set it aside.
Step 9. Disconnect the moisture sensor wire harness at the bottom of the front bulkhead. :Loosen the bolt securing the support bracket underneath the front bulkhead.
Step 10. Use your nut-driver to take out the bolts securing the bulkhead to the front of the drum. Lift the bulkhead off the drum and set it aside.
Step 11. Reach underneath the drum carefully, then push the idler pulley inwards (this will release the drive belt tension). Unhook the belt from the two pulleys.
Step 12. Lift the belt and drum out of the cabinet carefully, then set them aside. Disconnect the wire harness from the drive motor.
Step 13. Using your nut-driver, take out the bolts securing the cover to the blower wheel. Secure the motor shaft using a 7/16 inch wrench.
Step 14. Loosen the blower wheel from the shaft using a 1/2 inch square drive bit. Slide the blower wheel out of the housing.
Step 15. Pry off the two retaining clips securing the drive motor using a flat-blade screwdriver. Pull the motor assembly out of the cabinet.
Step 16. Try rotating the motor shaft by hand. If the motor makes a grinding or squeaking noise when turning the shaft, it indicates that the bearings are damaged and need to be replaced.
Step 17. Once you’ve gotten your new washing machine drive motor, install it in the cabinet. Secure the new motor by snapping the front and rear retaining clips on.
Step 18. Plug the wire harness into the new drive motor. Push the blower wheel into the housing, then use your socket wrench to secure it.
Step 19. Put the cover on the blower wheel, then apply the bolts using your nut-driver. Carefully lift the drive belt and drum, then guide them into the cabinet.
Step 20. Reach underneath the drum, then loop the belt around the motor pulley and idler pulley in a zig-zag formation.
Step 21. Ensure that the belt is properly aligned by rotating the drum by hand. Lift the front bulkhead, then mount it on the drum. Secure the bulkhead by tightening the screws.
Step 22. Plug the moisture sensor wire connector back in. Put the lower support bracket back against the front bulkhead, then apply the nut to secure.
Step 23. Place the control panel’s mounting bracket on the cabinet, then use your 1/4 inch nut-driver to apply the bolts.
Step 24. Lift the control board bracket, then place it against the control panel mounting bracket. Secure the brackets by tightening the bolts.
Step 25. Lift the front panel and snap it onto the cabinet. Use your nut-driver to tighten the bolts at the top.
Step 26. Carefully tip the machine backwards and support it. Apply the nuts at the bottom of the front panel. Set your machine back onto its feet.
Step 27. Open the dryer door, then tighten the nuts at the bottom of the opening. Plug the door switch wire harness into the control board.
Step 28. Snap the control panel onto the mounting bracket, then apply the nuts at the top to secure it. Plug the control panel wire connector into the control board.
Step 29. Mount the top panel on the cabinet, then push it forwards. Secure the panel by applying the bolts at the back using your nut-driver.
Step 30. Reconnect your appliance to the power outlet, then try running a spin cycle to ensure that the noise has stopped.
4. Damaged Tub Bearings
The bearings are mounted in the outer tub and help the inner tub shaft spin smoothly. If your KitchenAid washing machine is making noise, it could be that the bearings are damaged. If you notice a lot of noise when turning the drum by hand, you’ll need to replace the bearings. For detailed steps on how to replace this part, read this article: KitchenAid Washing Machine Is Not Spinning.
5. Unbalanced Machine
If your washing machine isn’t properly balanced, it could lead to a lot of noise during spin cycles. If your washer isn’t balanced, tip it backwards, then adjust the feet as needed using a wrench. Set your machine back onto its feet, then place a spirit level on top to ensure it is balanced.
6. Damaged Suspension Rods (Top Loaders)
Follow the steps below to replace damaged suspension rods in your top loader KitchenAid washing machine…
Step 1. Disconnect your appliance from the power outlet, then turn the water taps off before starting this repair in order to prevent electrocution and leakage.
Step 2. Disconnect the HOT and COLD water supply hoses from the ports at the back of the cabinet (it is advised that you keep a rag nearby to clean any leaks).
Step 3. Loosen the bolt securing the wiring and tube guard to the back of the cabinet using a 1/4 inch nut-driver. Take the guard off and set it aside.
Step 4. Place some tape on your washing machine’s lid to secure it. Take out the bolts securing the top panel to the cabinet. Lift the top panel and support it.
Step 5. Lift the suspension rod you want to replace, then slide the ball support off. Lower the rod through the opening on the cabinet.
Step 6. Pull your washing machine’s drain hose out of the standpipe. Lower the top panel onto the cabinet, then apply the bolts at the back. With someone assisting you, tip your washing machine forwards and set it on the floor.
Step 7. Slide the suspension spring out of the opening at the bottom of the tub. Discard the old suspension rod, then prepare the new one for installation by unpacking it.
Step 8. Slide the new rod through the opening a the bottom of the tub. Carefully lift your washing machine back onto its feet.
Step 9. Take out the bolts at the back of the machine securing the top panel. Lift the top panel carefully and support it.
Step 10. Lift the new rod through the opening on the cabinet. Snap the ball support onto the new rod, then lower it. Replace the other suspension rods if needed, by repeating the steps above.
Step 11. Lower the top panel, then snap it onto the cabinet. Use your nut-driver to tighten the bolts at the back of the panel.
Step 12. Peel the tape off the lid of your machine. Put the wiring and tube guard back in place, then apply the bolt.
Step 13. Reinsert your washer’s drain hose into the standpipe. Reconnect the COLD and HOT water supply hoses to the corresponding ports at the back of the machine.
Step 14. Turn the water supply taps back on, then reconnect the power cord to the outlet. Ensure that the noise has stopped by running a spin cycle.
7. Damaged Suspension Springs (Front Loaders)
Replace damaged suspension springs in your front loader KitchenAid washing machine…
Step 1. Disconnect your washing machine’s power cord from the outlet before starting this repair in order to avoid electrocution.
Step 2. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver or a Torx-20 screwdriver, take out the bolts at the back of the machine securing the top panel. Slide the panel backwards a few inches, then lift it off the cabinet.
Step 3. With someone assisting you, lift the tub assembly and support it. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry of the retaining cap on the suspension spring.
Step 4. Lift the spring carefully, then unhook it from the cabinet and tub. Prepare the new suspension spring for installation by unpacking it.
Step 5. Hook the new spring onto the tub and cabinet, then snap the retaining clip on. Lower the tub assembly and let it hang from the spring. Repeat the steps above to replace the second spring.
Step 6. Mount the top panel on the cabinet, then push it forwards. Secure the top panel by applying the bolts at the back.
Step 7. Plug your washing machine’s power cord into the outlet, then try running a cycle to ensure that the noise has stopped.
Note: Please keep in mind that the steps above will be a bit different depending on the model of your washer.
8. Cracked Spider Support Arm (Front Loaders)
If your KitchenAid washing machine is making noise, it could be that the spider arm is cracked. In order to prevent the arm from breaking completely, you’ll need to inspect it. Follow the steps below to do this…
Step 1. Turn your washing machine’s water supply taps off and disconnect the power cord from the outlet in order to prevent electrocution and leakage.
Step 2. Go to the back of the machine, then use a Torx-20 screwdriver to take out the bolts securing the top panel. Pull the panel backwards, then lift it off the machine.
Step 3. Loosen the bolts securing the rear panel to the machine. Lift the panel off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 4. Take out the screws securing the upper and lower support braces to the back of the machine. Lift each brace off the machine and set it aside.
Step 5. Go to the front of the machine, then slide the soap tray out. Press the little tab inside the tray to completely detach it from the dispenser housing.
Step 6. Use your Torx screwdriver to take out the nut next to the dispenser’s opening on the control panel.
Step 7. Detach the control panel’s wire connector from the main control board. Release the control panel wires from the retaining bracket on the cabinet.
Step 8. Pry the control panel off the cabinet and set it aside. Use your screwdriver to take out the bolts securing the lower front access panel. Lift the panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 9. Open the washer’s door. Using your Torx screwdriver, loosen the bolts on the front panel securing the door lock assembly.
Step 10. Wedge a flat-blade screwdriver underneath the retaining band around the door gasket. Carefully work the screwdriver around until the wire pops off.
Step 11. Pry the door seal off the door opening. Loosen the nuts at the top and bottom of the front panel. Lift the front panel off the machine and set it aside.
Step 12. Detach the little tube from the port at the top of the door boot seal. Use your screwdriver to take out the bolts securing the top frame brace to the cabinet.
Step 13. Release the inlet tube from the retainer on the top frame brace. Lift the brace off the cabinet and set it aside.
Step 14. Use a 13mm socket wrench to take out the bolts securing the upper and lower weights ton the front of the drum. Lift each weight off the drum and set aside.
Step 15. Disconnect the dispenser’s hose from the port at the top of the drum. Slide the dispenser assembly backwards, then detach it from the cabinet.
Step 16. Loosen the bolt on the inner retaining band securing the door gasket to the drum opening. Pry the seal off the drum and set it aside.
Step 17. Go to the back of the cabinet, then carefully unhook the drive belt from the two pulleys.
Step 18. Use a 13mm socket wrench to take out the nuts securing the rear weight to the tub. Lift the weight off the machine and set it aside.
Step 19. Go to the lower front of the machine, then place a small dish underneath the emergency drain tube.
Step 20. Pull the cap off the tube, then drain out any water stuck in the machine. Once all the water has drained out, put the hose’s cap back on.
Step 21. Jam the drive pulley at the back of the tub using the arm of a hammer. Loosen the bolt securing the drive pulley to the inner tub shaft using a 24mm socket wrench.
Step 22. Slide the pulley off the shaft, then set it aside. Use your Torx screwdriver to take out the bolt holding the grounding wire near the bearing hub.
Step 23. Loosen the bolts securing the pressure chamber to the lower rear of the tub assembly.
Step 24. Disconnect the wires attached to the drive motor (ensure that you note where each plug goes).
Step 25. Loosen the bolts securing the drive motor to the bottom of the tub with a 13mm socket wrench. Lift the motor off the tub carefully, then set it aside.
Step 26. Using a pair of pliers, release the retaining clamp securing the outlet hose to the back of the tub. Disconnect the hose from the machine.
Step 27. Place a rag underneath the tub to catch any leaks. Release the retaining clamp securing the sump hose to the bottom of the tub. Disconnect the hose from the machine.
Step 28. Using a pair of pliers if needed, grab the top of each of the four shock absorbers. Rotate the shocks, then detach them from the mounts at the bottom of the tub.
Step 29. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the retaining caps off the suspension springs. Disconnect the thermistor wire harness at the lower front of the tub. Release the thermistor wire from the retaining slots.
Step 30. Lift the two suspension springs and unhook them from the cabinet. Guide the tub assembly out of the cabinet and set it aside. Take the two springs off the tub.
Step 31. Set the tub assembly on two supports facing upwards. Pry off the retaining clips holding the two halves of the outer tub using a flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 32. Lift the front half of the outer tub off the assembly and set it aside. Lift the inner tub out of the rear half of the outer tub (if this is difficult, turn the tub over, then apply some anti-rust oil to the shaft).
Step 33. Turn the inner tub over, then set it face-down on the floor. Loosen the bolts securing the spider arm to the inner tub (depending on the model of your machine, you may need to replace the entire inner tub).
Step 34. Unpack your new washing machine spider support arm, then mount it on the inner tub. Secure the spider arm by tightening the bolts.
Step 35. Lower the inner tub into the rear half of the outer tub. Place the front half of the outer tub on the assembly, then snap the retaining clips on using a hammer.
Step 36. Lift the tub assembly upright, then attach the two suspension springs to the mounts.
Step 37. Lift the tub assembly, then guide it into the cabinet. Lift the two springs and hook them onto the cabinet. Snap the retaining clips onto the suspension springs.
Step 38. Grab the top of each of the four shock absorbers, then push them into the mounts at the bottom of the tub. Rotate the shock absorbers to lock them in place.
Step 39. Lift the two front weights, then mount them on the drum. Secure both weights by applying the 13mm bolts.
Step 40. Go to the back of the machine, then mount the rear weight on the drum. Secure the weight by tightening the bolt.
Step 41. Connect the second outlet hose to the port at the upper rear of the tub. Use your pliers to slide the retaining clamp into place.
Step 42. Reconnect the sump hose to the port at the bottom of the tub, then move the spring clamp into place with your pliers.
Step 43. Mount the pressure chamber at the back of the tub, then secure it by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 44. Use your Torx screwdriver to apply the nut to secure the grounding wire near the bearing hub.
Step 45. Slide the drive pulley onto the tub shaft, then apply the 24mm bolt to secure it. Carefully remount the drive motor at the bottom of the tub, then tighten the 13mm bolts.
Step 46. Plug each wire harness into its appropriate terminal on the drive motor. With the grooved side turned inwards, loop the belt around the two pulleys.
Step 47. Place the lower and upper rear braces on the cabinet, then apply the Torx screws to secure.
Step 48. Go to the front of the machine, then carefully fit the door gasket around the drum opening.
Step 49. Fit the inner retaining band around the door gasket, then secure it by tightening the 7mm bolt.
Step 50. Move the detergent dispenser back into place on the cabinet. Reconnect the dispenser’s hose to the port at the top of the drum.
Step 51. Reconnect the thermistor wire harness at the lower front of the tub. Carefully fit the little inlet tube in the retainer on the top frame brace.
Step 52. Mount the top frame brace at the front of the cabinet, then secure it by tightening the Torx screws.
Step 53. Reconnect the inlet tube to the port at the top of the door boot seal. Lift the main front panel and remount it on the machine. Secure the panel by applying the Torx screws at the top and bottom.
Step 54. Snap the lower front access panel onto the cabinet, then apply the bolts to secure it.
Step 55. Open your washing machine’s door. Reach In behind the front panel, then push the door lock into place. Secure the door switch to the front panel by applying the Torx screws.
Step 56. Fit the door gasket around the front panel. Using a flat-blade screwdriver or a pair of needle-nosed pliers, fit the outer retaining wire around the door boot seal (take care not to puncture the seal).
Step 57. Pass the control panel’s wire harness through the opening the top frame brace. Plug the wire harness into the main control board.
Step 58. Snap the control panel onto the mounting bracket, then use your Torx screwdriver to apply the bolt next to the dispenser opening.
Step 59. Push the soap tray into the dispenser. Secure the control panel wire harness in the retaining bracket.
Step 60. Lift the rear access panel and snap it onto the cabinet. Secure the rear panel to the machine by applying the Torx screws.
Step 61. Mount the top panel on the cabinet, then tighten the screws at the back. Turn your washing machine’s water supply taps on.
Step 62. Plug your machine into the outlet, then try running a spin cycle to ensure that the noise has stopped.
Note: Please keep in mind that some of the steps above will be a bit different depending on the model of your washing machine.
